Sk8man
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Posts posted by Sk8man
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Admiral Byrd and I went for an afternoon/evening cruise and motored out to 530 ft to have a look. Nothing on the screen along the way out or there so trolled back in. Caught 5 or 6 lb steelie on 10 color, then 8 lb king on rigger both with spoons. Went to adjust wire dipsy with F/Fly set at 250 on a 1 setting and it got grabbed while in my hand by "hit and run' and got off. Stayed in the 220-280 range and ahd a huge hit on the dipsy F/fly set at 250 on 1 with white homemade fly on it. Had it on for several minutes and he stripped wire from 250 to 580ft and gone. When brought line in two hooks on of the triple X strength treble hook straightened out
A little later huge hit and Spin doc with same homemade white fly set on #3 out 330ft. Fought like hell and took line repeatedly out to 0ver 600 on counter and never gave up until in the boat. Hell of a time netting him and he had a giant lamprey attached when he came in the boat right behind the gill but fresh wound and hadn't fully penetrated skin yet. Killed the lamprey. King weighed 25 lbs on scale. While bringing him in rigger fired and another 5 or 6 lb steelie on spoon set at 85 ft. All in all fun time gorgeous day and a couple of fights to remember.
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WTG Mike and Mike and Mr. B
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I've used roller rods for over 50 years and a variety of them at that. I also use twilli rods as well. There is a marked difference in roller rods, guides, and tips. less expensive rods often feature tips with aluminum side plates while quality roller tips are stainless steel, alloys, or titanium A problem encountered with the cheaper aluminum ones is that stranded wire cuts through them and allows the wire to reside within the cuts when at a certain angle. I use SS roller tips that are fixed rather than ones the revolve as it is easier to keep them and the wire at the right angle in the rod holders. As mentioned roller tips offer less resistance than twilli"s and you can usually roll through fleas unless real thick. The roller itself has to be really close to the side rails to prevent narrow diameter wire (e..g. 30-45 lb test) from nesting in between the roller and side plate where it can actually sever the wire and there is often a screw and nut that can be tightened slightly on the side plate to adjust. There is usually more spacing in that area on the aluminum type roller side plates. I even have an 8 1/2 ft downrigger dipsy wire rod set up with a SS roller tip with usual guides (eg ceramic?) and no problems after several years as the wire seldom if ever rests on the guides themselves. I have another with a twilli and no real difference in their performance. My shorter dedicated medium weight roller rods do roll in easier though than both of the other rods as there is less bend in them at the tip allowing the roller to function better. Again, these are all fixed roller tips not the swivel type.
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Might want to think twice about making the probe an attractor. I have had salmon hit even large dodgers in the past.
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Sweet! Certainly a day you both will remember
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Good going Bill. I would have loved to be a fly on the wall listening to you two guys
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Line diameter is one aspect and the slickness of the coating on the line is another component. I have used Sea Flee 30 lb test for years and it works pretty well but like everything else it is not foolproof. I noticed that one one rigger rod that I left the line on for about 5 years that the slipperiness of the outer coating of the line was reduced and the fleas starting adhering a little more on it. Another thing to consider is the type of water flea. The spiny fleas will usually come off the line fairly easily and sometimes just a vigorous flick of the tip of a wire rod or rigger rod. The fishhook type water flea adheres to just about anything and is much like cottonwood but smells a lot worse
. Flea concentrations vary greatly throughout the water column which explains why some folks report they aren't bad in an area of the lake while others say they are terrible. The length of time they stay around varies too as it seems to relate to water temperature and perhaps even wind direction and velocity dispersing them throughout the column as well as the lake areas. I think line diameter may not be as important with the fishhooks type as they can totally clog up downrigger wire at 150-200 lb test when they are thick and I think it is the fact that the wire is stranded maybe not as tightly as some braid which can have a smoother surface and maybe at larger diameters won't allow them to cling as easily. Just my take on it.....
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Nice video. Wondering how you captured the boat underway at the start with drone?
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Nice going John. Thanks for the report.
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I think he is the one guy that everyone would be in agreement about on this website. Competence and the willingness to help others are a couple of things that seem in short supply these days and he displays both and in a very genuine way.
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Dre: there is one carried by Walmart but it doesn't give the size of the openings but maybe could check it out further...they may have in the store even.
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Way to go Stan.
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Seaflee isn't a total answer but I have had it on all my downrigger rods for about 8 years replacing the mono with 300 yards of it and leadering off it with lighter fluoro and it helps quite a bit. The spiny fleas come off pretty easily but the fishhook type adhere to anything and are tougher to get off much like cottonwood.
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Nice going Bill
That spoon has always had good Karma for me too
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Ditto on Deans you don't have to go far to jig and it is a little more protected than other launches especially from westerly wind.
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I know there are rod builders on here that might offer more expert information but I have used both epoxy and super glue on the roller tips successfully. By successfully I mean that they have lasted for 30 plus years without problem but having the correct diameter tip for the particular rod is important too. The tips don't require wrapping but the fit should be snug. The downside of superglue may be if you need to remove the tip for some reason (I have never had to on the 8 rods I have them on). With the rod epoxy or rod glue it is a matter of carefully heating the tip for removal.
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Something to be said for predictability too Stan.....things that function like they are supposed to and predictably are rare these days. I still am using my Cannon 10 A's from 1985 that I bought from Canandaigua Fishing Tackle and they have been out of business for many years
I figure they will probably last as long as I am able to fish
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Wow! VERY unusual; especially at this time of the year.
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Mark sounds like a turn over but are you sure of the accuracy of the temp meter?
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I've run both fixed and sliding cheaters since the late seventies and when I first started using them I tried them about 15 ft long as I was thinking about staying away from the back of the boat. After a couple times I realized that when you get a decent sized fish on them (e.g. kings :>) there is a big problem getting to the net once you reach the swivel of the main lure. If you keep them just slightly shorter than the length of your rod it eliminates that problem ( e.g rigger rod 8 1/2 ft slider 7 1/2 or 8ft). I also try to run spoons that run at compatible speeds to avoid twisting at higher speeds. It also can help to run light flutter spoons on the slider and regular or heavier spoons on the main line as the lighter spoon will pretty much stay in the bow of the main line. Using ball bearing swivels can also help reduce line twisting. I've known people that use 2 ft. sliders successfully as well so having a long length may not be as crucial as some may assume.
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JJ I have seen folks at that spot keep ones under 9 inches and out on the pier they keep stuff that I wouldn't even put in a fishbowl....I don't know if they feed their cats or what not enough meat to even fillet
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Bob the spot mentioned is not even 50 feet from one side to the other, right out in the open directly next to a main highway within clear sight of anyone passing in cars. It already has way too much pressure on it. We didn't even fish it this year for that reason. Crappies like perch are very vulnerable in the Spring and there aren't all that many in there anyway anymore. The ones we have caught there in the past have been released for that reason.
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I have no idea what folks are thinking when they give out small spots than can be fished out in a hour or so if the fish happen to be there. I like giving out useful info as the next guy but the Internet is a double edged sword and can be very destructive of small limited fishing spots. In these cases people need to get off their butts and physically explore areas for potential spots . This type of fishing is not anything like lake trolling etc. and places can easily be ruined by too much fishing pressure on them sometimes in a single day.
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Nice going Anthony and great report.
Sliders vs stackers for salmon
in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
Posted · Edited by Sk8man
Breaking Bass- Try using the offshore release with the rubber "pin" on the face of the jaw if not using it. It can help hold the line in.
Despite placing a slider a given distance up the line it will seek a place in the bow of the line which can vary up and down and depending on the lure itself and boat speed can vary considerably so if want to keep fairly constant distance maintained a fixed slider is the way to go.