codybuehler

I may sound a bit insane, but I am looking for an aluminum, deep V project boat. To be more precise, an 18-20 foot, outboard driven, aluminum walthrough or side console with a rotten transom or floor (or both!). The aluminum should preferrably be in good shape, just rotten wood. If the outboard runs, it would be a plus. It can be faded, but no holes or gouges or the like. I would also like it to have a trailer. PM me with what you have and we'll discuss. I mentioned 1990+ in the title, but 80's would work too. I don't want to get into "antique" style. I am looking for something along the lines of the style of Tracker, Lund, Alumacraft, etc. Thanks!! Cody

Sounds good. I planned on being generous with the 5200. I also went just a hair bigger on the new bolts. The originals were 3/16" and I ordered 1/4". I snapped a few of the 3/16" ones off taking them out. Not that 1/16" bigger will make a huge strength difference, but it'll make me feel better. The new ones also have an allen wrench head instead of a phillips head. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

I haven't made much progress in the last few days. My work schedule has been insane! I managed to get almost everything I needed to be able to finish this whole thing off once I get the wood epoxied. I have a simple question that has to have an easy answer, but my common sense flew out the window. I ordered stainless washers with the neoprene gasket attached for the bolts that run through the transom. The bolts I took out all had them, so I figured they would be good to use again. The question is which side does the neoprene go on, bolt head or transom? When we took them off, they were neo to bolt head. I am going to use 5200 on the bolts as well for double protection. I hopefully will get the wood cut to shape tonight and fitted before I seal it tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Looks like I will be stopping on the way home for resin and a new sheet of plywood. Why the 3:1 mix? I am assuming 3 parts epoxy, 1 of hardener. By the sounds of it, I can just use the resin as the glue and to seal the wood? It doesn't need to look fancy, it'll be buried in aluminum sheeting. I'll be looking for the acid etching paint as well. I'll post up some pictures later tonight once I get the process going again. Thanks all!

And as for talking to a boat repair place locally, I live in northeast PA. They would probably charge me to ask questions! 😄 Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

That is good info. I'll be doing round #3 this week with epoxy! Would resin without the fiberglass between 2 sheets of plywood work or is the fiberglass sheet necessary? As for UV light degrading, all the wood is covered by aluminum. None of it is exposed to sunlight. But, what kind of paint would work? I'm not sure I want to get into gelcoating. Would an epoxy garage floor paint work? Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Thanks for the well wishes with this! It turned into a waiting game watching glue dry! I have definitely learned a few things with this so far. 1. Silicone is not a proper sealant for unused screw holes. I found a lot of spots the previous owner tried to seal up places that looked insane. He must have held the caulk gun on the hole and pumped it in until he ran out. 2. Liquid nails won't work for gluing plywood together. You can clamp it all day and when you unclamp it, it will just pop apart, even if you follow directions. 3. Tracker should have never used galvanized screws to hold the motorwell to the transom, even if they thought it would never see moisture. 4. When the galvanized screws rot off, more silicone will not hold the wetwell plate to the transom. Those are just a few initial observations. This next sheet of plywood is untreated pine sheeting. I used contact cement to glue them together. It's no cheaper than fiberglass/resin the sheets together, but seems like it is similar to make the plywood. If there is a reason that fiberglass/resin is used, I'll probably make another plywood part. For sealing, I am going to use spar urethane. The brand name is Minwax Helmsman. An open thought is about painting bare aluminum. Should it be done? I thought about just spraying it with rustoleum. Something is better than nothing! Another thing I have been trying to figure out is the bolt holes that go through the wood. Should they be drilled before or after sealing? If I drill before, and make sure urethane gets in them, that is just a bit extra protection. I am going to use 5200 on any bolt or screw that goes into the wood. I really don't want to replace this again anytime soon! Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

I am working on replacing my old wood transom in my Tracker. I had a hunch the transom was completely rotten, but was in denial. I literally had this out a week ago fishing on Seneca. I had to share once I started pulling things apart. The wood really isn't wood anymore, but loosely assembled wood chips and soggy wads of the remnants of plywood. It was unnervingly close to pulling the motor bolts through, also. I'll post more pictures as the project progresses. I Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Had an ok day out of clute. 2 salmon, 2 rainbows. Had another salmon hook up and bump off shortly after. The bows and 1 salmon were literally in front of the boat launch, the other salmon was out near the dirt line. Lures were a little firetiger rapala and a rainbow trout yo zuri pinfish. The big rainbow was 30", 8.5 lbs. This was his first time fishing outside of PA. Beginners luck! Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app