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longbow

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Everything posted by longbow

  1. Attach about 30' of braided line to the end of some new wire. That way the wire is completely wound up on the reel all the time and does not allow for kinking the wire when attaching divers and such. I am on the second year of using the same wire on both diver reels and haven't had a kink yet of any kind. This tip was given to me by the late Charter Capt. Larry Basset of Sea Dog Charters.
  2. I just float the diver down the shoot with a free spool no drag and my thumb on the line controlling it as it goes out. Get to between 50 and 60 feet of line out and put it in a rod holder or on the rigger rod holder itself. Then I use the reel handle to click the anti reverse forward and loosen the drag a good bit to let the line go out by itself. I always look at the rod tip too, make sure it is moving up and down as the line goes out. Never tangle nothing at least since I've been using this method. I also use about a 30' leader of spider braided line so the wire is always wound up in the reel and doesn't kink. On my second year using the same wire and still have full reels on both my diver reels without any kinks etc.etc.
  3. This isn't ebay. Simple to post a price with the descritpion.
  4. Again had it on my arms and hands to no ill effect. Didn't affect anything on the hull other than taking off the crust and lime stains and long hair that was hanging off it. Used a high pressure washer to remove it. Cleaned my trim tabs to look like new as well as my outdrive. My transducer is still working as it should too. It is way better than using muriatic acid which is really caustic. I used that last year and didn't enjoy it one bit but it did clean the boat half way decent but with alot scrubbing . It was a buffered compound though and not pure muriatic acid. To me the ZEP'S was much safer and way way more efficient. thanks
  5. I don't know about it melting the paint on my trailer. I had it on my arm and hand to no ill effect. Didn't effect my trailer either and actually cleaned up a bit of the rust spots on it. Put it on my engine outdrive, kicker, trim tabs, transducer etc. Didn't hurt anything nor me hands or arms. It's pretty slippery feeling so I am assuming it has surfactants in it. All I know is that it worked for me. Says its made to use on metal too as a rust eliminator. Use at your own risk I guess. I was happy with the results.
  6. Mine is a glass PY Avenger. Paid a bit over 6 bucks a gallon at Home Depot. I didn't notice anything else coming off with it at all. I used the high pressure spray end so it gave a nice wide spray pattern and went over each side 2x with the washer.
  7. The BEST Hull Cleaner I've ever used So had to pull my boat Sat. due to what turned out to be a wash down hose connection problem that as I turned it on running out to fish flooded my bilge with quite a bit of water. Anyways long story short pulled the boat, fixed the problem yesterday. While it was out I figured I'd clean it up on the hull and get it ready for the fall tournament. So go to Home Depot to get a roller brush and pan to apply some acid I have at home to do the hull. So talking to a customer service person there who happened to be a woman and whose husband is a fisherman, mentioned he used ZEP's equivalent to CLR. So I listen to her and figure well if the ZEPS is good then the CLR is better cause you know 3x more expensive and then some. But ended up with 2 gallons of ZEP's for less than the price of one gallon of CLR. Come out to Hughes where I say mostly spring-fall, and with a bug sprayer loaded with this stuff, spray it on the hull on one side. Let it sit about 20 minutes to a half hour and then using my pressure washer wash it off. Frankly I was blown away by the results. No friggin scurbbing or anything. Boat on that side was like show room new and I kid you not. Heavily browned with what ever it is the lake puts on it over almost 5 months of fishing and sitting at the dock. Especially the transom, had moss hanging like hair off the trim tabs and pretty much everything else. Took about 15 minutes to apply it, 10 minutes to wash it off and half hour to drink a beer! Did the other side which is the dock side and that was even worse. Same results. My boat has never been this clean, all the brown stain on the bottom is completely gone. So there ya go.
  8. If you take pp I'll grab these. thanks PM with details on PP addy etc. thanks
  9. PM'd early this a.m. Let me know. Got the glow spoons last week. If to late no worries. thanks
  10. Went out with my wife yesterday morning out of Hughes. Hollands Cove looked good and the lake frankly didn't look bad. Rounded the point out of the shute at Hughes and holy crap. 4 footers. Was looking for browns in 90-40 feet of water. Headed east. Trolling motor was barking on occasion so put in the trolling bags and used the big motor. Marked a ton oh bait fish, had good temp out to 90' down 45' but no fish. Trolled east to about a mile passed the block house and the lake was frankly getting pretty snotty. I will say that the Amish bags I use for trolling did there job. It is amazing how much pitch and roll they take out of the boat and just suck it down on the water. When I pulled the bags and lines there was pretty much a steady 4-5' swell in sets of 3 with a more than occasional 6 footer just for fun. But not a washing machine mostly waves from the NW. Going back though sucked. Rained like cats and dogs too. I'm sitting in our camper at Hughes at the moment and am listening to the waves pounding the shore. We have the Living Waters Salmon Slam this weekend and am hoping for better conditions but not predicted.
  11. If you take PP I'll take the 10 glow spoons, Lot 1. Let me know via p.m. etc. thanks
  12. I love that Big Cat Whaler. That is one gorgeous ride. Watch you guys launch from my fifth wheel right in front at Hughes. As they say, the bite is on.
  13. I have some 3/8" alum. that is 16" long and 4" wide I have to pick up tomorrow from my brother in the southern tier. I'll use that as backer. etc.etc.
  14. Yep power trim and tilt, hence the remote with control cables and wiring. The transom has a plate for a garelick heavy duty motor mount on it now. The fella never did get a kicker nor the motor mount for the plate. So basically just the plate is mounted on the transom now. Looking at the fixed bracket I don't think it will be narrow enough to slide down in the channels of the plate that is on there now. Sean where are you located? Your idea might be the easiest way for me to go. I'll p.m. ya, thanks
  15. Mounting a Kicker Motor My kicker will go on this weekend I hope. It is a 2016 Pro Kicker 9,9hp. 25" x-long shaft. So what I have secured is the remote with wires/cable, pass through seal, throttle cables, and the mounting hardware for the garelick fixed transom bracket and the bracket itself. I need to get the tee for splitting the fuel line and the extra fuel line itself. Now my question is this: What can I use for a backer plate for the kicker mount. The fella doing the install suggested 4 pieces of aluminum plate about .250" thick with a 3/8" hole in the center of each. These would measure 4x4" each. I am thinking marine plywood about 3/8" thick that would be a few inches larger than the bracket itself with the holes to match the bracket. Seems simpler and easier and quicker. The transom of my boat, a Penn Yan Avenger already has a mounting plate on it from the previous owner who was going to put a kicker on it but sold the boat instead to me. I've no idea if the fixed bracket will slide down into the plate that is on there now or if I can fit it over the plate so I can leave it on there. So how has anyone mounted there kicker on the transom. The transom on the P-Y seems pretty robust to me and tapping it like was done on the survey it seems hard as a rock with 0 dry rot anywhere. So suggestions as to how and which way to go. thanks
  16. I have a Garelick fixed mount coming with 12" of back set. Will hold a motor up to 250lbs or there abouts.
  17. What type of bracket for kicker Anyone know of decent fixed brackets for kicker motors? I've looked on the net and find plenty of the Garlick type that you lift in and out but want something fixed that I don't have to monkey with lifting in and out of the water. Let me know, thanks and info. is appreciated.
  18. never mind, you use rudders with engines a midship I assume.
  19. Well went with a 9.9 Pro kicker with a high thrust prop/gearing etc. Has power trim and tilt and am looking into the elevator type of bracket. They were on sale at Bass Pro in Auburn. Having it installed within the next week and a half. Oh yea the 25" shaft too. Gonna use an ez steer hookup along with my intellisteer for the main. Thanks for all the advice.
  20. SHOUT OUT TO GAMBLER Gambler offered a deal on a free Browning Compound bow. Well he wasn't kidding. Picked it up last night with all accouterments. Just a big thanks. Much appreciated.
  21. Well this is like pulling teeth trying to locate a 15h.p. kicker. Found a few 9.9's around both new and used. A local dealer can get a new 15 h.p. for close to 4 grand in 7 weeks, but frankly that is a bit to much money to fund one at least on my end. Still looking and leaning towards a 9.9 as that seems to be what is available. Excellent info. too. Appreciate it.
  22. Thanks folks. Excellent info J.P.
  23. What's the difference between a Pro Kicker and just a regular 9,9 long shaft Mercury kicker? Also is a high thrust kicker motor just a kicker with a larger prop on it? thanks
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