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BottomDollar

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  1. BottomDollar

    Panther Kicker Mounts

    I've got that same Panther fixed bracket due to my transom shape and not wanting another folding bracket. It's solid and plenty of clearance when the kicker is tilted up while under way. Edit: sorry, just saw that you need more setback. That one you linked to should work well for that.
  2. BottomDollar

    Sea nymph help

    Another vote for Nautolex marine vinyl. I used 5/8" ACX plywood coated in epoxy and then wrapped in vinyl. [Even better would be marine ply and epoxy with fiberglass cloth]. I actually made my panels removable by making "T" angle out of two "L" angles...you attach them by pre-drilling and countersinking the screws into one panel edge, then attaching the adjoining panel by screwing it into the top. So, if I have to, I can remove the panels without wrecking the vinyl to address wet foam or leaky rivets, etc. This is on an old starcraft but it's pretty much the same (don't mind the riggers in the photo): EDIT: I used finish washers with all the exposed screws...you can see them attaching to the stringers as well. No problem with bare feet or keeping the floor clean.
  3. BottomDollar

    Cannon rigger slipping on way up

    I could be off base here, but it's an electric motor. It works or it doesn't. Sounds like your old one was fine. If your housing is cracked its extremely likely that that was causing the problem. It's really just a winch with a circuit board...it's not complicated.
  4. BottomDollar

    Cannon rigger slipping on way up

    Epoxy? If done right that should be just as strong as the housing. And drill out the crack ends. Good luck, they're worth saving. If you end up having to replace them the new Mag 5's will accept the long booms and swivel bases you have (I'm assuming you have these).
  5. BottomDollar

    Cannon rigger slipping on way up

    Same symptoms and same diagnosis on my old mag 10's. I sold them but the guy who bought them put new housings on them and they're good as new. Fish 307 has the housings.
  6. BottomDollar

    Lower unit oil

    Very late reply, but an oil pump tube securely connected to the drained lower unit and a mityvac will tell you if it holds pressure. A spray bottle with soapy water will show where the leak is if one exists:
  7. BottomDollar

    any alternative for gluvit?

    rolmops, that system sounds perfect. I used the panels so I wouldn't have to ever dig the pour in stuff out, but with your install it'll just come right out if you need to get to the hull interior. When I add a belly tank to my Chieftain I'll probably take your advice. Here's what I did: My deck is removable panels so I can get in there to change it up pretty easily: Gratuitous glamour shot of my '74 in Burlington, VT: Sorry to derail the thread, OP.
  8. BottomDollar

    any alternative for gluvit?

    Thanks! I'm a lurker from Champlain. Sorry to hear that. You're right about the knee brace, I forgot that those can definitely get weak and crack. But it's a known issue with a legit fix: Mine is 41 years old and I don't think I'm risking my life by using it in typical water conditions here. I rebuilt it and addressed all the issues for thousands less than a newer boat. The beauty of the old tin boats to me is how easy they are to fix. We'll likely have to agree to disagree on that. Cheers.
  9. BottomDollar

    any alternative for gluvit?

    I've got to respectfully disagree on this point. Rivets do loosen up over time and use, but that doesn't mean the boat is unsafe. A few micrometers of flex generally won't work harden the aluminum panels as there's just not enough flex to do so.There have probably been more starcraft rebuilds than any other recreational brand, and that's because they can be rebuilt on a budget and be just as safe as when they were new. The splashwell structure will crack if they were run with a rotten transom, and the chine rail can crack if the side panels were soft and it was a pre hull-stiffener boat. The splashwell cracks are an easy fix with backer and jb weld. A chine rail crack is bad and extremely unsafe. But it's not that common. Some people add their own stiffeners: If you have the deck out I'd do a garden hose leak test, mark the leaky rivets and replace them with new solid rivets. Gluvit will work too, but it's more of a band aid fix or a precautionary step while you have the hull interior open. I would stay away from spray-in foam and use closed cell rigid foam insulation panels. Same flotation benefit but cheaper and it won't lead to waterlogged foam in a few years.
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