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tj13825

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Everything posted by tj13825

  1. I plan to go to the 30lb braid. I run big boards off of a mast not inline boards and planned to put 30lb big game mono between the backer and lead core. Not sure if you were able to make haeds or tails of my chart but I figured that I would add enough mono between the lead and the backer to cover atleast 150' out on the boards. I have also heard of eliminating the mono and just using shower clips with rubber bands with a double loop on the braid. Will the 47LC hold 7 colors and enough 30lb PP braid backing? I have a large assormnet of Stinger Dive Bombs for added weight 1/2/3/4 and 6oz and figure I can achieve greater depths with those and retain some of the backing.
  2. Above chart I meant to list both Daiwa's as 5 colors not one as 5 and one as 6. I am however looking for suggestions as to if this is ideal. Thanks again Terry
  3. Hi guys, A few more questions about 27lb lead core set ups. I have 4 reels that I want to dedicate to lead core and want to do it correctly. Right now I have 17lb mono backing on two Daiwa 47lc reels each with 5 colors on them and 12lb flouro leader. After thinking about it I am not really crazy about having lighter backing but hoped if anyting failed it would be the lighter leader, in addition I don't think there is enough backing there either. I also have 2 Shimano Triton 200GT reels that I want to set up as a 2 and 3 color reels for SWR, spring browns and fall salmon. So with these four reels should I stay with two 5 colors and a 2 and 3 color? I run big boards so I was thinking of using 30lb braid as backer (wrap spool with tape or short section of mono) and I would either splice in some 30lb big game between the backer and lead or use shower rings with rubber bands on the braid for the releases. Please take a look at the "chart" below and let me know how it looks. Hopefully it is big enough to read. Thanks again Terry
  4. Thanks, looks like a good deal for someone unfortunately I can't use them my boat is over 150hp
  5. Which model are these? rated for 80-150hp or 150-240hp?
  6. Purchased the subtroll and the spare antenna from Joe. Great guy, shipped it very fast and has been very helpful during the transaction and after. Thanks Again Terry
  7. Sk8man great advice on letting the diver out, fighting the fish and the rod storage/transport ideas. I always have a pair of wire cutters on the boat kind of a better be prepared for the worse kind of guy. Chief yes the wire set ups do have the twilli tips installed. I can't really picture using the rubber band, are you just half hitching the bubber band around the wire and rod between the reel and the first eye?
  8. Tyee, Yes I am runnning Mono rods on the DR's and then the wire DD rod and then the braid DD rod separately. While my 101 question may have suggested very basic level I have trolled for over 30 years with Dr's and planer boards just new to the DD set up other than throughing one on a mono rod with a spinning rod having no clue where the hell it was in the water. Last year I picked up the braid set ups with 47 LC reels and read a lot about depth charts etc. Just trying to pick up any difference between braid and wire I should be aware of. Thanks for the link, I have actually used that on braid before. I also float fish so I have lots of beads that is a great tip!! Shawn/Big Water, Thanks for the keep it tight direction, last year fishing the braid I always made sure I let the diver out with the clicker on and slow never "free spooling" so this i will be the same process for me. I will keep an eye on kinks. You mentioned snubbers, I have always run snubbers on my DD even when I have run them on Mono rigs. Do most run them or is this a Ford vs Chevy 50/50 thing?
  9. Hi guys I performed a search and found a few helpful tips but was hoping to get some "101" schooling on the in's and out's of wire dipsy diver fishing. I already have a pair of 10 1/2' DD braid rods that I fished last year with some success and have fished DD in the past. I just purchased a pair of 9' wire set ups to add to the spread. I regularly fish with a buddy and his 10 yr old son which are both excellent fisherman but don't really know their way around a boat yet so I am looking for some tips. I am not asking the how deep does this run, or should I run 7 or 19 strand. What I am looking for help with is the small things that you probably do without even thinking about it. My set up will be a down and out DR with 4' boom either at 45 or 90 off each gunnel in the furthest back position of a 36" traxstech track, then a Berts ratcheting rod holder for each of the DD rods. I have an additional 18" of track mounted mid ship if I need to increase the spread. The rods are 9' Taloras w/wire and 10 1/2' Daiwa Great Lakes System rods with braid. All four reels are 47lc. Safety, obviously wire is going to cut through things especially fingers if they are put in the wrong place. What are some of the Never do this! Always do this! types of things to know? Other considerations/topics: drag settings knots tips while fitting the fish storage/transport of rod/reel combo wire line life expectancy maintenance how to identify a problem with the line before failure turning radius I know there is some time before the rods will even be put to use but I really like to study and know the basics beofre getting out there to help work the kinks out. Thanks again Terry
  10. I have a LGC -3000 puck and quick mount base with the red connector and a few cables that I removed from my new to me boat. The unit was left on by the previous original owner that sold me the boat last year he took the head unit but left the puck.I have no way of verifying its operation. $65 + actual shipping One red extension cable for puck 15' long again red ends no nicks or damage to cable $25 + actual shipping One Misc cable with 6 conductor ftg and two cables from molded end. One cable 2 conductor approx 22g wire Red and Black approximately 48" long, second cable of the assembly is shielded 4 conductor Blu/Ylw/Wht/Blk + shield wire again approx 22g wire and about 18 feet long. I do not know what this goes to it is potentially the power and data cable for the unit but I cannot verify only assume based on the cables location under the dash when I removed it. $10 + actual shipping
  11. I would first like to say that I have read every topic using the search function to avoid asking redundant questions. If I do it is either because I still did not understand or I missed it.First I know the Moor went out of business in 2015 and will no longer manufacture the units. I know that there is a company ESG that is selling off the inventory and another company that will continue to provide service.I have an old unit that I aquired last year and it only gets the decimal but no speed/temp when I bench test it. It may be a bad antenna or probe not sure but with the recent prices I am thinking of buying a new complete unit.I am not overly concerned with buying a unit that the mfg has gone out business when I know that the units have been performing well for many years for thousands of people and that other circumstances are the reason that they unfortunately had to close their doors.The other factor is that I just don't see myself in the near future getting a X4 or other unit. My first question is since the cable needs to be coated does that mean a stacker release cannot be used on the cable? I just bought Chamberlain releases (2 regular and 2 stacker) for my spread this year to upgrade from my roemer releases. I do have a couple spare D/Rs should I try to rig one of them up with the speed/temp sensor and not run any lines off it? Maybe just one with the release off of the ball. My boat is only 20' with an 8' beam so avoiding a third rigger would be ideal but it could be done running it down the chute on the back starboard corner (can't do the middle) and the other two down and out at 45/90 degrees. I figure that the unit should last in the 5-7 year range without an issue (providing I don't lose a probe) and by then finances maybe inline to step up to a X4D or other unit but until then I think this is my best option. Thanks in advance Terry
  12. This all great advice helping me to avoid some of the pitfalls that I usually have to learn the hard way. I plan to run an 8 rod spread one on each rigger and I will run 6 mono lines on the big boards until the fish move out to utilize the 2&3 core set ups. So I know there are a lot of variables at play (speed, current, turning radius, etc) when trying to avoid having the lead drop like a brick and get hung up but what kind of minimum depth of water should I target when starting to run the 2&3 color set ups. Earlier I read it is not used until in water greater than 20' deep.
  13. Lots of great input here already. So far I figure that I can stagger my lines like I have always done with the out side line being the longest and shallowest. Then once the fish start firing all of the lines can be dialed in to that length on that side. As far as spread Mono, 2 core, then 3 core is what I figured keeping the lines progressively deeper as they get closer to the boat. I know that the inlines would allow resetting a mono line to the outside easy but I figure I can either slide the 2 core and 3 core down and then run a dive bomb on the mono line on the inside to make sure it is deeper then the 3 core. If the water depth or fish don't allow then reeling in two lines is not that big of a deal to get the spread back out. Tyee Tanic I do have a question about the 2 and 3 color sink rates statement you made. If I understand lead core (first year with it) each color sinks about 5' (using 27lb core) . So the mono line will dive whatever depth the spoon/stick bait takes it, the 2 color should be 10' + the lure depth, and the 3 color should be 15' + the lure depth. Do I have this right? If so why would the 2 color have a problem clearing the 3 color givin the fish does not dive or go crazy, in that situation even a 4 or 5 color could be in jeopardy. I also ordered a wide variety of dive bombs ranging from 1oz to 6oz to use on the LC as the fish move out during the warmer months. Are there any "typical" go to combinations using the 2 and 3 color lead core set ups? Example Mono with a 2oz =16' / 2 color with a 1oz = 18' / 3 color with a 1 oz =23' would I be running these too close in depth would a spread of Mono with 1oz =8' / 2 color with 1oz = 18' / and 3 color 2oz = 31'? Thanks again Terry
  14. So I have a some questions regarding my line spread with big boards. For years I had always run a 6 rod spread (3 on each side) with the longest and shallowest line being the furthest from the boat and then each line progressively shorter and deeper So say 120' 100' and 80' on one side and then 130' 110' and 90' on the other side. This usually helped with reducing tangles when a fish hit allowing it to fall back behind the inside line. I ran this way for years but as you can imagine if the fish like a certain distance back I only had 1 lure in the "zone" Last year I went on several charters with buddies to catch up and just have some fun. I asked several questions and one of the things the captain shared was he sets all lines on one side at say 120' back and all lines on the other side 140' back. This way it is easier to repeat and mimics a school of bait. Made sense and really just being patient to allow the fish to "fall back" and not reel too early or fast allowed the lines to clear. I used this pattern the remainder of the season with some success. Last season all my lines were just mono with only the lure and a couple of split shot to vary my depth trying to keep the "V" depth pattern. This year I have added some short core rods 2 each 2 core and 2 each 3 core. So I now am questioning which is the best or easiest way to set up the spread. Should I run a mono rod out furthest from the boat then a 2 color then the 3 color all the same length out. Or should I run a mono line out first and then a both 2 cores on one side and a mono line and both 3 colors on the other side. This would seem to be easier to get the set back distance as I could just clip the release to the mono after the lead. BTW each core rig has 30' of flouro so the 2 color would be out 90' and the 3 color 120'. Obviously I would adjust lengths to what the fish are telling me. Thanks Terry
  15. WTB Daiwa Eliminator Dipsy rod model # EL787HGL Great lakes system 9' rod Thanks Terry
  16. I currently have two 36" Traxstech tracks mounted on the port and starboard sides of the back third of my Lund. I currently have a downrigger and two ratcheting Bert's rod holders on each side and love the set up for D/R and Dipsy's. The problem is that in the fall the layout really wasn't conducive to planer board fishing. Last year I trolled using the ratcheting holders in the rear and a couple adjustable holders I have mounted next to the windshield. This year I want to add to my boat to prepare for the spring and utilize my planer board mast and big boards. I would like to add three rod holders to each side up near the windshield for the planer boards. I already have a pair of 18" mounts with a 12" risers and was thinking of mounting either a short 6"-12" track or another pair of 36" tracks. If I do mount the 36" it will give me more adjustability over the 6-12" but half of it will be covered by the 18" pedestal and kind of useless. At this point I am thinking I might just add the 36" track and not use the pedestals at all. Is there an andvatage to elevating the rods up the aditional 12" off of the gunwales? (see attachement not my boat but looks like what the set up would be) . I have seen guys rotate the pedestals to face the rods rearward but I have not bought rod holders yet and can achieve this with dual axis rod holders. I break down my entire set up every night and cover the boat so storing the additional 18" pedestal is one more piece to handle/carry/store. A Vertical tree is not in the cards as I do not want to have to carry two of those to the car every time. I have also thought about just taking the 18" track off of the pedestal and mounting that to the boat and then adding two more 18" tracks for a total of 36" Looking for some advice based on your experiences with your set ups do's/dont's lessons learned. Thanks Terry
  17. We did one on top in 24 FOW and the other two 20' down in 45' of water. One on a chrome and orange and the other on green and chrome NK-28.
  18. Misery likes company, I went out today as well, started at Webster pier and trolled east to Bear creek. Picked up three browns but still waiting for a good day. It has to change at some point.
  19. Thanks guys. Gambler what is the yard arm? This is my first year fishing out of I-Bay, grew up fishing out of Williamson/Sodus area. Terry
  20. Heading out of I-Bay on Saturday morning hopefully to put my father in-law on some fish. It is has birthday and he doesnt fish much or have the patience to. i figured I would hit the mouth of the Genny early for some combat fishing but if that doesnt produce I would like to put him on a few lakers. Earlier this summer I would run cowbells/peanuts on the bottom from shipbuilders to bear creek in 130-150 and have very productive days. This time of year have they moved? Only have 1/2 a day so starting in the right depth would be a big help. Thanks and tight lines Terry
  21. Monkeyman we picked up the first one in 22' just off summerville and the second one in 35' ontherise it was a nice chop a solid 1-3' at times the wind and waves were strong enough that when trolling east my 15hp kicker wouldnt be enough so had to start up the main engine.
  22. Thanks for all the help got out this morning for some combat fishing and finally put up a couple kings. Hooked up on a jointed j-plug and landed a 16lb and then took a 20lb on a spoon. Thanks again
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