Blue Heron

If you are going all the way across the stern with a raised track make sure it is high enough that your OB doesn't hit it when tilted

On my crestliner sabre with a main OB and kicker on an SST transom I mounted the 3rd rigger directly in front of the main OB with a 5ft boom that reached out over the OB. Ran this setup for years and never had any sort of issue. You will need a weight retriever on that rigger but with that inclusion it was simple to set and retrieve by turning the rigger 45 degrees away from this kicker during the rigging process and then turning it straight out the stern while running it. I generally ran it as my deep rigger with my corner riggers at a 45 degree angle away from the boat, this set up easily support at typical 'V' downrigger set. I was also an aesthetically pleasing set up . IMO 2 riggers on one side increases your changes of cable tangles and complicates the set up of your diver and 'junk' rods. Don't over think it, it appears the back of your boat is similar to the way mine was and a 3rd rigger install looks pretty easy (you might need a 6" pedestal since your OB looks a little higher than mine) Sorry I don't have any pictures handy

I have Costas(glass lens), Oakleys, Onos and the Costas are by far the finest of the bunch. I also agree with Vince that Blue Mirror is the way to go

with pretty much any 4 stroke OB you will need to go to an 8hp to get a 2 cylinder engine - if you opt for a 5 or 6 hp you will get a single cyl - it will run much 'rougher' - the difference is very noticable. I started with a6hp tohatsu on my 16' lund and after a year upgraded to an 8hp - major difference - also it is much easier to get Elec start when you move up to 8hp

I dont believe it hurt the paint - I think that the amount of damage you can do is directly related to how much pressure you apply with the drill

They make an eraser wheel you can use in a drill that removes them very cleanly, When I camo painted my old mirrocraft the heat gun didnt work worth a crap but the eraser wheel took them right off. I got mine at the auto finish store just off ridge road over by the gorge (cant remember the name of it)

Back in the late 80s Gold Star made triangular shaped 'flashers' that went between your cable and weight - we then ran pinch pad releases off the back of the flashers - they definately worked

Frogger I ran an 8hp tohatsu 4stk with elec start as a kicker on my lund and it always ran great - had a controllKing on it . I would definately recomend Online OBs - I bought 3 different motors from them and they were great to deal with

you may want to look at onlineoutboards.com - they usually are as cheap or cheaper than any sale, ship for free(have motor in 3 - 5 days) and you pay no tax

Guys Anybody know the correct gear lube for a 2013 60hp merc 4stk - the manual doeasnt say and I cant find much out there - I found 1 spot of merc site that says use premium gear lube (80-90w) for OBs below 75hp Thoughts?? Thanks ted

sent you a pm - am very interested

it has happened to every Eaqgle claw rod I have owned - they are junk

anything less than an 8hp in a 4 stroke will be single cyl and will run a little 'rough'. I had a 8 on my 16' lund rebel - handled the weight fine (the new 4 stks are lighter) and trolled all day and a couple gallons of gas

The 8 was smother and also had Elec Start

Frogger I had a 6hp Tohatsu 4stk on my 16' lund - there were no issue - however I believe most 6hp 4stks are single cyl engine so they are not as smooth running - I eventually went up to a 8hp and it was definately smoother