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About Darrell

  • Birthday 06/13/1956

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  • Interests
    Fishing, football and more fishing

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  1. Fluro leader/tippet is the most important line issue to ever consider, no matter what kind of fishing your doing. The length of the fluro is subject to change depending on depth of water and clarity of water. I'll use lengths from 2' to 10' depending on the situation. In a case of not wanting to experiment with different lengths its always safer to go longer. A thing to always remember in fishing is going cheaper isn't usually effective.
  2. Several years ago I was fishing a smaller stream in November that had a pool of large browns in it that had been hammered all day long by many good fisherman. To say the least no one caught a legal fish out of that hole. Later in the afternoon the only people left in that stretch of water was me and my buddy. I already knew those fish had been hammered all day long and the only way to possibly catch one leagally was to use a different bait than they had probably ever seen. I tie on a pink worm and it was like hitting the lottery. We caught 12 browns over 7 lbs and 2 were over 12 lbs. All those fish were males which I found interesting and were released. I personally prefer to fly fish but when all else fails in an area you know has fish the pink worm will work when all else fails. For some unknown reason I've not had nearly as good of luck with a pink san juan worm as with a rubber worm
  3. #10 is the way to go, Spro makes the best swivel for the money
  4. Like Sk8man said Spro locks are my choice by far. Sampo makes a good selection of this style
  5. Try terminaltackle.com, I've used them for most bulk hook and swivel purchases. They are very good to deal with and almost always have what you're looking to buy.
  6. Both VMC model # 9171 and Owner model # 5171-105 make siwash hooks in size 1. This is the smallest size I've found to date. I've used both and have found both of these manufacturers to have the best quality available in all of their products.
  7. The Laskey sharpener will work great for your knives as the as the course stone will get your knife in the proper shape for final sharpening. The best way to own a good knife is to never let it get that dull. I like you learned that the hard way. Thats why I use the Laskey now only if a blade cannot be sharpened with my ceramic sticks which isn't often anymore as I use the sticks after at least every other fish. One thing to realize is when a knife has outlived it's useful life. Knives cannot be sharpened forever as blade design will dictate the useful area for sharpening. Once the blade starts getting into the thicker area your done with it and go buy a new knife. Thats why I use the ceramic sticks more as they remove very little material but you must start with a sharp knife to get an extremely sharp knife.
  8. I bought one about 20 years ago with the standard 3 stone setup. It worked great on all my knives. When the original stones wore out I replaced the medium and fine stones with the diamond version. The only thing I've changed is I use Case ceramic sticks to keep the edge like a razor all the time. The only issue I've ever had with the Laskey system is you tend to remove too much blade material each time you use it. It works fine but blades don't last for more than a few years if you use it alot like I did. I own top quality knives and don't like replacing them too often.
  9. I don;t know about you but I always use 2 knives when filleting large trout and salmon. The one knife which is more like a hunting knive is used only to make the top cut along the back bone and the bottom cut to rid of the belly fat. This knife takes the majority of the rough area which really dulls thin bladed knives. I then use skinning pliers so my fillet knive doesn't have to make that cut and then cut the fillet. This procedure allows me to cut alot more fillets with a sharp knife than doing it other wise. I have found that the quickest sharpening method of all my knifes has been to use Case crock sticks. These ceramic sticks fit into a wooden block at the exact angle needed for any knife. Using this after each fish I never have a dull knife. It takes only a couple of strokes to make your knife 100%. These sticks only work well if your knife is not very dull. They bring your knife back like a chef uses a steel. If your knife is too dull you will be required to use a stone prior to using the sticks. I've never used this system on a boat but I have used it outdoors many times and have had no problems. Those quick sharpeners you mentioned remove way too much of your blade and make you knife not last very long. The only thing you have to do to maintain the crock sticks is to run a steel wool pad along the stick after your done to remove the metal from the stick. I've been using my Crock sticks for 15 years and they still work as good as the day I first used them.
  10. Just as Fishin Again said, it's a genetic issue and fish like this generally don't live to adulthood. Whirling disease is a issue that fish getting it only live a few weeks and it doesn't happen in big water only nurseries and very small streams
  11. 3509 Somehow, Obama will deny he ever knew anything about this issue.
  12. I have noticed clevis ploblems when debris is present on the water surface. This just makes the clevis not function and this makes the twisting issue unbearable. As a general rule I have not noticed any issues with the lures themselves. Thank you for the comment.
  13. I never thought of heavier line, but that does make sense. I guess it will cut down on casting distance but if it corrects the twisting issue it's worth it. I would still use 4# flourocarbon leader so stealth shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the comment
  14. I've done both of your suggestions. It does make things better but over the course of 5 to 6 continuous hrs of casting I've got problems. The hardest one to correct is the waiting between casts. I understand that once twist becomes present in the line removing it becomes next to impossible. I use about a 24" leader.
  15. I have a problem while stream fishing with line twist. It only happens when I use inline spinners (rooster tail, mepps type). I've got a quantum spinning reel with 11 ball bearings loaded with either 4 or 6# line (I've used all brands), using crane, sampo or ball bearing swivels. My 1st thought was that I was doing something wrong when putting the line on the spool, so I had the bait shops spool it with no change in the problem. If I don't use the above spinners I don't have any problems. It's not the reel as this just happens to be my present one but the problem has existed with others. I enjoy fishing with these type lures because of the vast amount of water I can cover in a short amount of time but I hate this line twist issue. Any thoughts as to a resolution without becoming strickly a fly guy.
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