rolmops

One thing here has not been mentioned yet. The bilge pump hose outllet. It may happen that the hose coming from the pump to the drain hole in the side of the boat sort of hangs down. This allows wave action to throw small amounts of water into the bilge pump and into the bilge from there. The easy fix is making sure that the bilge hose is kept higher than the bilge hose outlet so the water cannot get in. Don't ask me how I know this.

On 6/6/2022 at 2:54 PM, LongLine said:

You thinking just the weight or that it vibrates more?

It is probably mostly the weight. But if there is extra horse power as well ,then you get a bit of everything. The damage is not always done in the water. Trailering is often the culprit If you work with a 25 year old transom that now carries a heavier engine at sixty mph..., Anyway, I feel like I am becoming an armchair boat mechanic.

Am I right to think that you went from a 2 stroke to a 4 stroke with the same or maybe even higher horse  power? If so, the much heavier 4 stroke will have done a job on your rig and this leak which is probably on a seam is only the beginning of more trouble to come.

Filling up your boat with water is not going to show you where the leak is. The upward pressure of the water and the downward pressure of the weight of the boat is easily stronger than the maybe fifty gallons you poured into the boat. When the boat is in the water ,things get stretched in all directions which may cause a leak on a seam .Besides, the weight of the water you poured in there may have pressed the leak closed. It sounds to me that you should do a gluvit treatment. This is not something that can wait till fall. It should be done when the weather is nice and warm. because warmish gluvit penetrates every seam and crack and after it dries up properly it is also very flexible and can easily stretch right along with the pressure points in the hull

Good luck.

tt

I have a brand new Empire boat cover that will fit a 22 foot Starcraft Islander or similar boat. I unpacked it tried it on the boat while parked and after 5 minutes put it in a box in my garage.

They are about $350 new. This one is for sale for $200.

If you want to low ball , you're wasting my and your time.

PM me if interested.

16 hours ago, Pete Collin said:

Cornelius,

Just letting you know that today I finally got everything back together. It seems to work, but I have to bring it to Silver Lake and drive around to be sure.  Thanks for all your coaching. Like most projects I tackle, it was tougher than I thought it would be!

I think that before too long, you will help others with your skills, be it outboards or trees. That’s what being a decent person is all about.

11 hours ago, whaler1 said:

I love my Fish Hawk and have used them for a very long time. When my son and I purchased our current boat we purchased a new X4 and this would have been our third year using it. 
Saturday I used the probe for the first time this year and the unit showed 3.8 degrees down temp. Other than that it was functional. When I got home I went to their website and that very condition was number 2 on the troubleshooting list. Bad temp sensor, no remedy, buy a new one. 
I contacted Fish Hawk and they did give me 25% off but I can’t help think that if it’s a common product defect that they should have done more. I ordered the new probe this morning.  Am I being unreasonable?

It sounds to me that you accidentally switched the screen to Celsius instead of fahrenheit

Good morning Pete.

I just saw your post today.

Don't be afraid of taking the carburetor off.  You will need that working room. All you need to do is taking the carb off and everything will be easy. You can also take the starter off and approach the whole thing from the other side.

Just get your camera and take pictures of every step you take so you know what to do when getting every thing back together.

after you have loosened the 2  nuts off you can move the carburetor a bit forward and then up a bit. that may be enough to get it done. Otherwise, just loosen up the connections and take the carb out.

Here is a fairly useful youtube off what to do.

Is that the Sandy Pond on the east end of the lake or, the creek near Hamlin?

10 hours ago, bearhunter said:

What does that have to do with lead ammo on state land?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

That is exactly how I felt about your comment

7 hours ago, bearhunter said:

Next step will include private land and then they will include carry concealed also!

Sent from my SM-G973U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

There probably are some people who would like to see that, although not very many. It is more probable that parents whose children were hurt or killed because of guns left laying around by irresponsible parents will be held criminally liable.

You mentioned that you fish from a 17 footer. Those boats are narrow and tend to go sideways when weight distribution in your boat changes. (You stand up or move sideways)Taking it from there, you should try to balance everything you can. Like have the same gear on each side of your boat. To easily fish a 17 footer, try and keep your rods on the short side. I used 7 and 8 footers. The only long one going out of the stern.  It prevents rods from getting caught in each other or the net. For wire line rods I had 2 8.6 footers with roller guides. They cost a bit more, but they work very well with wire line and will save money in the long run.

So there we go again, turning stuff into politics that gain us nothing positive but help finance a lot of politicians who claim to represent you but mostly want your money.

Let's put some things  in line here.

We all know that lead is not something you want on your breakfast plate and we do not really want to kill animals because they ate the animal that got hit but got away and died later

Most hunters love nature and so do the people who promote the change away from lead.

Ducks unlimited invests a lot in environmental improvements, so it seems to me that that there are more than just a few shared interests.

I do not think that hunters have to quit their hobby just because of the material that they use to shoot.

So what other alternatives are there ?

Let's start with the anti lead crowd. They should be made aware that every time they use Orkin or Mosquito Joe or anti grub treatments for their lawn, they are probably indirectly killing a lot of birds. We should make them aware of their negative actions and save some of the things they claim to protect.

Now for the hunters. If using something instead of lead, would a longer barrel or a rifled barrel help? Would different tactics or techniques remove the need for lead?

Is not overcoming the challenges while hunting a great part of the woodsman's joy?

I could go on. Calling your senator is an idea. Calling your senator with ideas about how to solve the problem and give them a chance to do something positive instead of wasting our money to play politics is a great idea.

Think about it.

On 4/25/2022 at 10:12 PM, Pair of Jacks said:

LOU Obi Wans—we have been reading veraciously all the TTPs you have posted; however, no one has mentioned drag setting. As experienced striper, hybrid, and walleye trollers we set our drag on clicker mode to sing one verse on the initial strike/hookup then we lock down the drag and set the hook.   If we are fishing late, fall through late spring we let the fish run and then bring them in. If it it’s summertime (warm water and air) we try to quickly land the fish to avoid over stressing the fish (we mostly catch and release).  
 

In three weeks we will make our first foray to LO (Henderson Bay) and would like your wisdom on drag settings and fish fighting TTPs.  We will be using various combo of sticks and spoons on downriggers and yellow bird planer boards.

 

Respectfully

 

PoJ

What you describe would be good when trolling live bait. When fishing with lures you must set the hook at first bite or the fish will spit the the lure out and go elsewhere

Sent me a pm about where to meet so I can have a close look and buy.

I can be there Thursday afternoon after 4 pm

16 hours ago, idn713 said:

Tried, it’s crazy resilient 

It is very compliant if you add some heat.

Ill take them. Pm me your paypal so I can send the money

51 minutes ago, Gill-T said:

Interesting to find sunfish and it pairs with some telemetry studies that show browns are like walleye making moves in and out rivers and embayments on daily/nightly forays. 

Those browns probably were in Ibay for breakfast.

I don't get it.

My apologies. I was wrong. I just double checked the specs. Here they are.

I have a pair and they are great. The one and a half weight otter boats float when a cable breaks, while the double weight ones sink. The performance of the one and a half is just as good as the double weight.

3 hours ago, Phisherman585 said:

Hey guys. Putting a 9.9 Honda 4 stroke on my 1995 19ft Lowe this year with a Panther 4 stroke bracket. The motor weights 98lbs and the bracket is rated for 130lbs. 
 

The first thing I read in the instructions was to never trailer with the motor on the bracket. This never crossed my mind when buying the bracket and can’t believe guys take off a 100lb 4 stroke motor every time they trailer. 
 

So my question is to guys with brackets… do you actually take your motor off when trailering? Thanks!

They will do that to protect themselves against idiots who drive down dirt roads at 80 mph while the bracket hangs by one bolt and the kicker is not properly tied down. Heck, any beer can that comes flying out of the cab may hit the kicker and it may break away...

But seriously If you have the bracket in fully upright position and you have the kicker strapped up against the transom so it does not shake and bounce and most important does not hit the roadbed while driving you should not have a problem.

So I drive carefully and have everything strapped down and my kickers must have 10000 miles on the back of my boat,

I just sent you a little print of your lower unit. This is just to make sure that you did get all the bolts.

On the outer rim there are 4 bolts toward the front end (#66) and towards the rear there are 2 .(#68 and #70).these two are often allen bolts and sort of hidden . #70 is easily found,but for #68 you will have to remove #76 by unscrewing bolt #77. then you will find #68 hidden inside the trim tab area. (that last one is often forgotten.

If that engine has been in salt water, then there may be a broken bolt somewhere. Do not try to drill it out until the lower unit is removed. Very often you will see a stub after the lower unit is removed and if you can get a vise grip on to the stub, they usually can be unscrewed after having applied penetrating oil and some heat. Make sure that the shift rod is not only disconnected from the top but also loose and if possible  the gear in reverse. If I remember correct, I sent you a Youtube of the process.

Let me know how things work out.

I tried spray paint, but that only lasts a few weeks, Then I tried color coded insulation shrink wrap,that worked a bit better,then I experimented with nail polish that worked for a while.The problem with shrink wrap and nail polish is that you cannot just have a small dot of material. It has to be a few inches long or you will miss it as it goes past. The best material for copper and weighted steel that I found so far is the material that truck garages use to write info on the truck frame . (for filter installation dates and such) I think it comes in red white and blue. The drawback of that material is that it makes for small stiff sections of line.