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Everything posted by HPORT

  1. Question; We have a 225 Penn Yan hardtop and would like to fish Canandaigua, is it feasible to launch from the Woodville dock with this size boat? I drive past the lake every Friday and never been on the water. We live in Hammondsport and would come over the hill on 53 and up 21. We have a small 16' Starcraft if need be, but like the comfort and room on the PY. Thanks, JC
  2. I'll put my two cents in, HDS NMEA + Yellow ( data transmit), connect to Radio NMEA Receive green wire on the Uniden and most likely the red wire on the cobra HDS NMEA - Blue ( common transmit), connect to radio common or ground wire on the uniden and most likely the black wire on the cobra radio Just think of the HDS transmit ( TX) wires as a means of transmitting the GPS communication to whatever device you have that needs to see the GPS coordinates. Inversely, if the HDS needs NMEA input, you will get that through the orange and green wires. Let me know how you make out, JC
  3. "so i had louise put the anchor out when we hit 20 fow.she says i never said to tie it off.anchor still there" Now that is the funniest thing I've heard in a long time... Take a piece of hose and a 5 gallon gas container with fresh gas, connect one end of the hose to the fuel pump inlet,the other end shove in the container and see if everything runs as it should, before you flush and possibly have to pull the main tank. It's sounds fuel related, but do the engines share the same fuel pick-up in the tank? Single tank, correct? If so I would look at the possiblity of the pick-up being a possible source of the issue. I have also seen bad fuel lines between the pump and tank that will cause fuel to be restricted or completely plugged off. You need one of those red pre-flight tags on your anchor " tie off before flight" JC
  4. We have a ap14r wired to a hd8 lowrance, last year I posted with photos and wiring description on how to wire the nmea signal. If you cant find the post I can peek under them helm and get the wiring colors. Problem is I'm rarely on line right now... You will absolutely love having the gps drive the AP [ Post made via Mobile Device ]
  5. Thanks again for all the advice, We finally got on the water 8AM Sunday morning, perfect day for fishing. Went 1 for 12, couldn't keep the little guys off the gear. They were fat and great looking fish, but we wanted to take home a few larger ones. Everything came off the Dypsy's, 150 to 300' out with gold NK spoons with red ladders and eyes. Tried Sutton's and NBK, but the gold ruled the morning. They liked 3.0mph SOG, we were running Keuka speed and took hits on the outside in turns, seems the fish are a little faster on Seneca Only had one DR operational and tried a bunch of SD / fly combinations with zero results. But I had issues with the DR rods, 5 of them were spooled 100% with PowerPro, being pretty cold Sunday morning and having spooled everything during the warm days of spring... spindles on the reels shrunk when it got cold and allowed the line to slip. I spooled one reel with a mono backing and that work fine. Rookie mistake I'm assuming.... And to top that all off, the one DR rod that worked, had a knot at 205', the fish were hanging around 300' on 350-400' bottoms. Especially in the holes. I could see them, but had no way of getting to them. The Dypys were doing so well, I didn't bother to cut out the knot. We had a great time on the lake, the only dull time was crossing the lake, no hits in the center. Most everything came from the troll South of Severne on the West side and a few coming back on the East side. We talked about fishing out of Watkins on the next trip , any suggestions on which way to run ( East / West) once on the water? Also, which ramp? I heard there is a ramp right behind the break wall? John
  6. RR, Nice suggestions, Thanks... The main line Power Pro is on the heavy side ( 65lb), I really need to look at spooling 30lb on some of the reels to compare. John
  7. Question on running shallow in clear water, how far off the ball? Do you run a length of fluorocarbon between the SD and main line, or just snap the main line to the SD? With just spoons, I usually run a 8-10' of fluorocarbon between the main and spoon. I have mixed results with this, so I'm assuming it's not correct. PB, RR thanks for the input, John
  8. My son and I are going to fish Seneca on Thanksgiving morning, if it's not raining... We have been so busy this year, that this will be the first time the two of us have had time to relax and fish together. Would it be better to launch in Watkins or Severne? We have only fish Seneca once before, and that was in Mid July, we spent our time hauling fleas and weeds out of Severne. Rough water is ok, we have plenty of freeboard and a hard top, we don't mind the cold as long as were catching fish... Any suggestions to put fish in the box would be great, we have DR, boards and divers, wire and Pro-line rigged reels ( no copper or lead) Thanks and enjoy the Holiday, John
  9. Bill, Yeah, we had allot of reboring and truing to prep a SBC for anything more then a grocery getter. It's a shame the 020 and 030 SBC blocks are gone, and those who have them will never give them up. The early seventies produced some of the best block castings ever made. The mid sixties produced the best SBC heads, it's all been down hill since. Know anyone looking for 462 heads? I agree with you on today's engines, regular PM is the best method to long life, but with the improved oils today customers can abuse the schedule more then ever. The last good engines I remember GM making where from the Canada plant. John
  10. Both points noted, Engine manufactures have not kept pace with EPA regulations on petroleum standards. Remember leaded fuel and the issues with burnt valves when the the EPA removed the lead additives from the fuel supply? The industry replied with hardened seats and new materials to combat the unleaded fuel effects on the valve train. Zinc reduction is no doubt similar, and there will be issues just the same. Zinc was one of the components in our cam lube for years. Until we get to the point of a zero impact synthetic, we are going see the industry ebb and flow with each new regulation. The cam failure in my opinion, is not the oil itself, but the application of the oil on a component that was not specifically designed to run with that specific oil rating. GM back in the early 80's couldn't keep a camshaft from wearing on V8's, they finally got on board with the other manuafactures and have a fairly good track record since. The engineers / manufactures know their business as well as anyone, cost is the main driver. Acceptable failure rate would be something that is on their table, no one is 100%, but some are real close. John
  11. PK, No, I have never in 25+ years of wrenching, pulled an engine apart to say oil caused a particular failure. Now most failures are in rotational assembly and its very easy to say that oil is the cause, its usually the secondary cause to the effect. Given the quality of today's fluids, it will be very hard to point a finger at the fluid as the initial failure point. I rank the failures as follows; #1 Lack of maintance #2 wrong oil / filter or forgetting to put oil back in or tightening the draing plug #3 my persoanal favorite, I wasn't abusing it... ( I removed black box data that had shown a customer had 14K RPM on the engine, with front wheel speed of 104MPH and rear wheel speed of 0 MPH, this car was FWD with a 6 speed...any guesses to what he ( 18 years old) may have been doing? ) John
  12. If it's under warranty and they call for a specific oil to honor the warranty, then you run it till it expires, then run 20w-50. Synthetic is better then regular oil in most respects, but the important part is that its the correct weight, rating and changed regularly on a specified PM scheduled. To get the best out of your oil, make sure your engine thermostat is working correctly and the engine can get to operating temperatures. I just dropped a brand new Mercruiser 5.7L in, it only requires that you use the correct weight and rated oil for operating conditions and proper oil filter ( it came with Quicksilver filters), and that you change the oil and filter on a typical service interval after the initial break-in period. John
  13. I would be interested in hearing how the gasoline looked in 10-30 days, ethanol absorbs water readily. If it can mix with water, it can be assumed that some water could have been introduced but not noticable enough to see seperation when you first dumped it out. Moisture in and out of the tank is common with on-board tanks, they have check valves that allow this inherit action. So just short of plugging the vent, you are going to get a certain amount of air movement as the pressure changes inside the tank. The task of "topping up the tank before storage" would prevent large amounts of moisture in the system. This is true for most any fuel system, not just marine. John
  14. Nice report! Anyone catching fish on the south end or at the Bluff? I'm planning on fishing Keuka soon as my DR weights are finished at the powder coater. It takes me ~20-30 minutes to run up to the State Launch, but if that's where the fish are then we will have time to have coffee... John
  15. CatFisher, The main thing here is do you want the boat bad enough to take the trailer? If you do, then you have a trailer that with a little work will be a good trailer for your 10 mile commute to the ramp. 1st thing you need to do is get the boat off of it and look it over very well, then if good, scrap it down, paint it with a rust stopping / inhabiting primer and paint it with a Rustoleum paint, white is good as you can see it better when under water. 2nd get a lighting kit for it, the old lights are worthless and you will spend more time chasing problems then its worth. 3rd get 4 new tires ( if the old ones are dry rotted) and grease seals, pull the bearings and see if they are good. If not, replace all the bearings, they are probably 1" bearings which are cheap and sold everywhere. 4th trailer winch, if it still securely latches, then get a new strap or cable. 5th Trailer coupler, does it still latch correctly, if so lube it and your go to go. I've done this a few times over the years, trailers are ease to restore if the frame, axles and suspension are in good shape. Figure spending about $500 to get it in good shape. John
  16. ERABBIT, You know you're lake... The weeds and monster ball were everywhere this morning. Biggest problem was the fleas grabbing the line, then the weeds hanging on the fleas. Spent the trip hauling gear. Man that bottom comes up fast when going North... Spoke to a few other out there, same problem. Marked fish up high, 40' in 130FOW, but with fouled gear we only had a few bitters and no takers. Can't wait fish Sevrene again, nice launch and only 30 minutes from the house. When do the weeds clear off? John
  17. We fished out of Sevrene for the 1st time this morning, fleas and monster weed balls everywhere. I spent the entire trip hauling gear to clear weeds and fleas. This is also the first time trolling in the middle of summer for me as well. I'm a cold weather fisherman, now I remember why. We were able to mark fish up high, but the gear kept fouling. We were running over marks with only a few hits to show for it. Beautiful day, spent it fishing with my daughter and wife, so it was fun and we were home by noon. John
  18. Thanks for the ideas... With any luck, I should be at the dock in Sevren at 6AM tomorrow. I'm fishing with my wife and my animal rights activist daughter. Should be fun...sorta. I really hope she doesn't name them...then start throwing them back when I'm not looking. Now, if they tasted like bacon, she would stand there with the net telling me to reel faster. John
  19. Superhawk 18, Yeah...what indian said. It was real spotty with fleas, sometimes just a 1/4 mile made a difference between stop 3 times to strip the line and almost nothing. I have Power Pro spooled on my DR rods, I usually don't fish mid summer... I will be running Seneca Friday, plan to bring 2 wire rods and respool 200' of mono on the braid. John
  20. We looking to troll Seneca for the 1st time, I'm about 1/2 hour or so from either launch. Any perferences to which area would be best right now? I usually fish spring, fall and winter, and leave summer to the tourist and fleas, but I'm trying summer this year and figured its a good time to start looking new fishing spots. We have a pretty good selection of SD, flies and spoons on DR and boards. If we get on the water between 5-6AM, what would be the best setup to start with? Thanks, John
  21. We fished the south end from 8-11 and went 2 for 5 all on Sutton's, 1' off the bottom in 109 FOW. Couldn't get SD / flies working (1st time using them), switched to Sutton's 1/2 hour before getting off the water. It was a good day to be out to be out with family. Had allot of problems with fleas between 60-80', but it was dependent on where we were on the lake. Not all places had fleas. We never went up more then 3 miles from H'port and stayed in 100-130 FOW.
  22. 99% of all fuel problems are electrical....Lucas If you think the filter collapsed from the fuel pump pulling on it, you could very well have a fuel restriction before the filter? When it's spiting and sputtering, whack the fuel bowl on the carburetor. Just make sure you are well balanced when you do it, if its a dirt in the bowl and you knock it loose, the boat will take off. ( been there) If not fuel, see first statement. John
  23. **************** SOLD ********************** Jim, I've had a ton of emails and PM's, it's tentatively sold waiting payment. You are next in line. John
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