kingslamon22

opening weekend out there is competition day tho. everybody with a boat is fishing, from yachts to bathtubs and innertubes the lake will be loaded with fishermen. my advice is to fish the weeds in about 14 feet of water on the south shore or fish deep on the north shore with jigs or troll bottom bouncers and floating rapalas down deep. deep is about 25-35 feet on onieda lake.

email your phone number and will call you.

reed cams made a couple good cams like you mention before they they shut their doors. they had a handle on the type of engines that people like to build. unlike todays market who builds their cams for high rpms OR rumbley sound. marine marked cams usually cause water reversion and should never be used for marine aplications unless your exhaust is dry. plain idiocy if you ask me. .035 is too tight of clearance for piston to head quench. no less than .040 no more than .060. if you had piston to valve problems you picked the wrong piston...OR...your rod bearing clearance was too much OR the rod was over reved or already weekend and stretched. race engines need close scruitiny. if what im saying is too much for you to worry about then buy a turd crate engine or pay a skilled engine builder for these types of upgrades. fish hunter obviusly youve done this before but dont tell just anybody to use that clearance id be scared to squish em like that. .030 can work if you heavily scrutinize your measurements and really really pay attention to details. id be leary id made a mistake. even rod bearing side clearance can destroy an engine with tight tolerance like that just by lowering oil pressure stability in the crank to rod bearing itself. with your ducks in a row, tight clearance is good but you dont want no predet with that type of quench though. also with that tight of clearance compression can be high with the wrong head. carefull with the dynamic ratios there too. obviusly youve done this before and dont need a lesson but here is my 0.02 cents

i couldnt hold my tounge back after seeing that somebody else already posted it...25-06 for a one gun guy. i have 31 rifles and load for em all and i always grab that dang 25-06. ever since i got one 25-06, its been all over but the killin. feel like im holdin luke skywalker lazer beam. pull the trigger and the lights go out. the incredible smack they make on game is telltale of caliber. is the loudest shocking round ive used on game and penetration is over 40 inches of deer. i use 100 grain hornady spire points not that that matters to anybody.

well i dont have a heck of alot of experience with the big block, the small block 350 was built buy gm to be a turd and the 454 is basically a big version of the same idiocy's. the pistons they use have chamfers and releifs that are way to big and useless, therefore lodge unburnt fuel which causes pinging, knocking, and all types of bad stuff. to prevent the predetination which destroys the engine, they back out the timing and reduce compression wich greatly reduces all tourque. this will make a pretty good reliable engine but dont expect rings to last on this type of engine build because the fuel washes the rings as its stagnant and unburned untill the engine is heat saturated. if you build a nice engine get some true flat top pistons WITH THE CORRECT PISTON COMPRESSION DECK HEIGHT COMBINATION. after you pick you CORRECT piston for your build, you would mill the heads of your choice prefferably the newish alpha era stock set with some hand porting done. the older pre alpha heads were heavier and hardly ever crack but they flow like drinkin gatorate through a coffee straw. stock marine heads are made for torque. wich you NEED. mill them to get your correct dynamic compression. make sure you measure your dynamic compression using your cam intake valve openings in the value. it matters if you want economy. personally i would use the factory cam for the mag 502. is is a good cam for high high torque, which you NEED. position your heads about .040 thousands of an inch from the piston deck height at tdc. anything over .060 is hotdog in a hallway material. this is known as quench. its a big deal. you need to use a head gasket that gets the head that close to the piston. it will make a dog of a engine withought your quench distance perfect. now you have your piston travel and compression figured, likely at around 8.75 to 1 dynamic comp 9.55 to 1 static comp for good marine gas. with these ducks in a row, make damn sure your using a rochester 4 barrel carb PROPERLY tuned so that you can keep as much timing into the ignition as possible to increase torque, which you NEED. any variables not covered in my post will cause predet and you will back your timing out to compensate for reliability and your torque goes right out the drain hole. if you are just using the merc thunderbolt ignition alpha or fuel injected bravo you cant controll your timing and a nicely built engine will just be that much more reliable. and with the properly built engine you can attain higher power with stock ignition just by efficiency of parts being set up properly. dont use a high volume oil pump as it robs power. use a new stock pump with a higher spring pressure. use a double roller timing chain for strength and longetivity of cam timing. single roller get better efficiency. less power to turn it. and no matter what what ever you do...do not reuse the old log style exhaust. get the alpha and newer style torque header type. still junk but miles ahead of the pre 1988 log type. if your carb is not tuned exactly then all these little things to bring out your true efficiency are wasted effort. i call it engine harmony. you can hear the harmony on onieda lake all summer long!!!

the paint is the best part. R&R tackle has spent the better part of ten years perfecting his U.V enhancement procedures and bakeing hard coats to perfection on his products because of the lack of quality in our current tackle supplies. R&R takes great pride like any of us true Americans do in our work. good enuff isnt good enuff for us. only recently have a few locally independant tackle doctors have stepped up to the plate and shown their passion for what they do, proving quality fishing tackle exists. But without a doubt R&R has been in the buisiness of perfection for years. this new spoon i have a feeling will excite the fishing masses because its going to be the new thing and rightfully so the spoon bizz has been stagnant as far as innovation and the paint seems to be a waste on big names lately. R&R tackle is still innovationg and perfecting and it might be time to jump on this train.

great action on those spoons, super high quality hardware, the paint stays on, and the price and value is ecceptional. i havnt used these on lake ontario spring browns yet but you can race me to be the first to submit the first pictures of huge brown trout catches on these new lures. Proudly made in the U.S.A. by an American taxpaying constituant. www.mytacklebox.com

with the battery they start first pull withought the battery its 2 or 3 pulls. dunno about that particular engine you have but some street bikes and atvs need a battery to start at all. like what rolmps said. most are the one pull with battery and more pulls to soak the coil in a charge and to prime fuel system to get things going withought battery. alot of fuel injection systems run batteryless but if it was not designed to run batteryless you will not have the correct fuel pressure to run at full performance if you can run at all.

its not the quality its the money. i buy hornady spbt's and sst's for deer hunting and as long as i weigh each bullet for consistancy and same for the casings, i get the same results. burger tests there bullets for consistancy thats the only thing they do better is give you all the same bullets in a pack. cheaper brands just have a weight tolerance allowance of about 2 grains. it can give you fliers i have weight them and tested my theory. bergers's are fantastic right along with hornadys sierras noslers speers and so on. i just choose to shoot alot and like to shoot what im hunting with all the time. same loads. i just have a gun for everyday of the week for every season and every bullet weight. keeps it simple right? haha. edited to say that i do use bergers for my 6mm rem but havnt killed anything yet.

old stringers can have the same problem. soft stringers or vibrating mounting feet cause misalignment. for new stringers though, the drive coupler shaft alignment needs to be centered as the mounting holes are being placed!!! whene you have the survey done have the drive alignment checked. if the alignement is off it needs to be corrected but im not so sure i would insist on new stringers if they are new and hard. just a little mounting hole fabrication education is all you need. but it just has to be correctly aligned and engine connected to the stringers. anytime you change anything in that system it should be align checked such as gimbal bearing, motor, motor mounts, stringers, U-joints, drive coupler, flywheel etc.

like what jack said on this post, 4800 max rpm. custom props can be fabricated to your boating needs. thers lots of differences that can make a perfect custom prop. only problem is even with the science and math perfect, thers always a variable and your first custom prop may not work the way you thought it was designed and the second and sometimes the third is the charm but it can be expensive. if that doesnt sound like you then your better off loadin your boat up the way it was intended and pitching to 4800 rpm W.O.T but stick to a large 3 blade for gas mileage. 4 blades add some resistance to the water at cruise speeds but give traction making you think there faster. same pitch 4 blade should be same speed as 3 blade. if the 4 blade is faster mph at the same rpm then you had too much slippage in the water. propping is a crap shoot unless you have some ideahs on where your at with slippage and hull friction on your exact boat. sooooooo many variables. take trial and error or take the 4800 wot recomendation and leave it alone.

i know this post is old but its brings up some good points that you the experienced fishers have already spoken. i have to bite on this subject to sum it all up, experienced drivers dont just keep the boat straight. also experienced drivers dont need visual focal points to aim for as well as compensating the simple physics of the "boat walk". compensating for boat walk expecting instantaeous results will do nothing but frustrate you like your kids on a cell phone while there supposed to be raking leaves as well as wear out your steering components faster than normal, but it takes many hours to uderstand how much compensation is too much. beginners beware. this cant be taught. conceps can be taught but situation dictates all actions on a boat. nor can line direction and current compensation be taught. only understood and situations dictate action. these concepts need to be understood. PAP, you say your boat doesnt do "the walk" because of tight steering linkage but that is not the case. if your boat really lacks the walk, you must be fishing flat water and have twin engines on your vessel that are perfectly syncronized with a vacume gauge at the same rpm which would require your engines be built in the same garage by the same guy at the same time with the same core parts. if that is not the case, you have "boat walk" plain and simple. driving a boat and fishing at a troll are different. as mentioned BY THE PROS HERE, there is no substitute for experience and some people can be taught to understand a few things but withought the knowledge and experience of the physics of water hydraulics and experience at the helm you got no chance of wiggleing your worm with a boat.

probly gimbal but the knocking is different might as well check your u-joints as well. if there good grease em up and go but if theres play that is likely the problem. if the ujoints are bad check your bellows.

over the last few years i have caught a number of atlantics from salmon river to oswego on the lake in shallow water. some big. i am obsessed now and i target them over all other fish. iv set a program that has put me on a few ever single year now since i found out it could be done. i think the fish im targeting were stocked on onieda lake in fish creek by the fishcreek atlantic salmon club and since the water is too warm they migrate on down to lake ontario never to be allowed to return to natal spawnig grounds. i agree with vince that its a hand and hand relationship among species now and forever. but i dissagree that there needs no more effort tward atlantic salmon. in fact i support the native species more than the others but vince has pointed out that that cannot happen. but since fish creek is stocking lake ontario, dont you think if you put some actual effort in we could put a viable fishery in place? i refuse to hear that atlatic salmon cannot repopulate. that is a farse and a copout from having to face a change. think about it.