TyeeTanic

I can only comment Lake Ontario ... minimum 20lb mono, preferably 30 lb mono. Use a leader around 20 ft long of fluoro ... weight is dependent ... smaller the more action on the lure ... but on Lake O 20 lb is typical.  Captain Dan Keating will say try 12 lbs for better action and stealth ... I see his point, just never had the balls to do it. I do use the smallest possible bb swivels I can get, based on his recommendation.

54 minutes ago, Norm Moser said:

jht21, your going to get a lot of different answers to the questions  you asked and they are all right for that person and how they fish. I use 32 lb Blood run copper if you look at there dive chart 32lb and 45 lb run close. Now, I run 32lb copper for lake Erie walleye and for salmon and love it for both. for a backer I use 50lb test power pro may seem heavy but I want my boards to come back to me every time with no problems. As far as connecting to my leader to my copper or to the backing I use a albright knot and I put a drop of supper glue on it so the power pro cant slip. for us leaders are 30 ft. again that what I run. good luck hope it helps.

That's basically how my buddy does it for the backing to copper, and he also heat shrinks wire tubing over the knot, so it doesn't fray as it goes through the rod eyelets.  For the leader to copper, I think he went to a micro swivel. I'd imagine that takes strain off the copper, given paddles like Spin Doctors can create a mess if they themselves get tangled up, and the main swivel is locked up.

Oh, and not sure you need to sell on ebay. For fresh water fishing stuff, there's a few boards like this one that have all the potential buyers you need.

Take pictures of the lots and then post them along with the price you want.  If you're going to have to ship everything given you are in N.O. than I'd distribute the less valuable stuff into each of the lots. I'd also say the shipping costs are extra, but you don't want shipping to be expensive, so the trick is to make sure the lot value is high enough .... like aim for $10 shipping for $100 lot price.

He probably has hundreds of things.  Best to group things into lots, by type and possibly by color (so all green lures in one lot).

Selling price will dictate if it sells and how long it will take.  I like to sell things fast to get it over and done with, so I generally look

at how much they cost brand new and cut the price in half (a brand new lure's probably $8 to $9, so if you have 20 in a lot and go with $4 ... $80 for the lot).

Now, after you separate the good stuff into lots ... you'll have a lot of "junk", stuff not worth much, not in the greatest condition, and will be difficult to sell in lots. There's two approaches that work ... distribute them into the lots, to sweeten the deal (without adding to the price ... so you are basically giving that stuff for free to help the lots sell faster), or when you have a person there buying, make side deals ... "Hey for $8 why don't you take all this stuff?" and sell lots of the lower value stuff.  If it's cheap enough, someone will likely spend the extra $5 or $10 to see what he/she gets.

I have heard you can't just use anything, some of the ablative paints have copper in them, which I believe damages the aluminum, also not sure if some are slightly acidic and can cause damage.  Do your research for sure, and I'd be asking a reputable marine shop to find out.  Maybe even call the boat manufacturer and get an opinion.

Torpedo 7 strand is good, I never bought into the 19 strand stuff.

You need a roller tip or a twillie. Twillie is actually easier, more forgiving.

If you use a normal eyelette ... you will break that wire .... it's just a question of time. You should put 1000 ft on the reel and you may use 150 ft to 350 ft of it out, which means that the wire will always be kinked tight on the top eyelette. With wave action, it will fatigue and break eventually.

Man, it was a long time ago, for our honeymoon. We booked through the hotel, now what is the InterContinental Presidente. Cost about $100 USD, but that was 20 years ago! LOL.

I can tell you, that was the best fishing day of my life ... we caught several 60 to 80 lbs barracuda.  Have the photos to make sure my memory doesn't elaborate over time. HAHA.

I guess the take away is if nothing has changed, you might rely on the hotel's recommendation. 

21 hours ago, John E Powell said:

If you’re handy and know how to retie on a guide, the talora’s guide spacing allows you to assemble the rod tip upside down and create a spiral wrapped diver rod by turning the 2nd guide 60 degrees clockwise around the blank and the 3rd 120 degrees clockwise. A spiral wrapped talora is about as close as you can get to a custom diver rod. I’ve modified many taloras like this.


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Can you post a picture of that? I'm having difficulty picturing it.

Talora. Good investment.

15 hours ago, jth21usa said:

Something like seadek how did you start the process?

I called SeaDek up, find the number here http://www.seadek.com/

First step is to order a template kit, they'll mail it to you, basically transparent sheets and you lay it on your deck and draw out the profile with a marker. Send in those, and then they draw up AutoCAD plans of the SeaDeck, which they'll send a pdf to you to approve. Once you approve, they cut and ship to you. It has 3M backing, so you lay it out, and once you have it positioned, use temp tape to keep a few corners in place, then peel and lay it down.  Obviously clean you deck first, don't use anything with PTFE or wax residue.  Wash and then I'd wipe it down with acetone to make sure there's no gunk.  It'll stick really well after that.

I had my boat with the seadek for 2 seasons before I sold the boat. Never had an issue. Really nice stuff.

On ‎10‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 4:50 PM, bandrus1 said:

all depends on how much work you want to do..... If you plan on installing all that stuff keep it. If you plan on selling it separate, its all about how much time you want to spend piecing it out... shipping it .... working with people online 

I sold my boat. Sold my gear separately. Everything was priced attractively. When guys arrived, I showed them other stuff at good prices. Everything sold in 7 days, $6500 in my pocket, cash.  Just look at new prices and discount 50%, it'll all likely sell fast.

Hard product or something soft like SeaDek?  I've done SeaDek, it's easy to install. But you have to get a template done of your boat. That's the hard part, outlining the deck, and then you send it in, for them to design it and finally cut it.

On ‎10‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 8:36 PM, Hachimo said:

Hey fellas, this was my first year fishing Lake Ontario.  I did well for a rookie but now i want to experiment with rod spreads for next year to cover more area.  I spent alot of money this year between buying a boat,riggers, and gear so my budget was limited.  I run a25ft trophy. My spread consisted of 4 riggers with two rods on each with occasional cheaters. If lake was rough then Two riggers were out.  Durring the winter i would like to further equip my boat and purchase more gear.  My thoughts were putting a planer mast on each side then running 250-500copper 40ft or so of each side of boat. Then a dipsey off each side maybe on 2nd setting. Then keeping the riggers behind the boat.  This probly sounds like non-sence to some of u seasoned vets but any inmput would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone has any copper combos there lookin to sell i would be interested. PM me and let me what ya got.  

Thanks guys

Doesn't sound like non-sense to me. You could still run the outer riggers with dipseys out, as long as you swivel the booms to be closer to the boat. Otherwise, yeah, just use the back two.

Other than what you said, I would rather be using leadcore in cold water. The fish are high, and copper could get too deep, even the 250.  I'd save the copper for July/Aug.

47 minutes ago, Yankee Troller said:

Your best bet is to run a small swivel when you connect the two. Albright knot would be my go to if I tried a knot, but I'd think that wire would eventually cut its way through. I know a bunch of Rochester captains who run exactly what your trying to do.

Exactly what I'm thinking, and then if you tie that small swivel, if you have a roller tip, you need to watch out for it, don't reel it right up, or you will ruin that rod.

Plus, mono stretches, so you might have a problem popping dipseys if you need to retrieve that line ... although it won't be as bad as having 200 ft of it out.

I'd not put on mono for those two very reasons, and just put braid.  There's very few right ways, other than the right way.

17 hours ago, NYS_Steelhead_Stalker said:

Stream cure then powder cure from all that I have read seems like the best method for LOOSE roe. Not sure about skein from what I have read. Maybe because skein is not yet mature and attached to the membrane still so they might be a little firm to begin with ?

 

But anyways if you cure eggs and then try the water/stream cure all your eggs will end up popped. No biggy though we all learn from our mistakes, if I catch a egg milking hen on the stream for now on I will make sure to grab a bit of that stream water in the bag as well. Thanks Rich for the help I appreciate it.

I always do that, I wash them in the river, try and get as much blood off as possible, and then they go into ziplock bags full of river water.  But I'm still worried these skein eggs are going to be a problem. When I cured them with salt/sugar, they looked great, but I have a feeling when I defrost them ...

Let me know if this works. I got some eggs still on skein, and I removed them and cured.  Normally I cure loose eggs, so I'm worried these ones will be weak when I defrost them ... don't want it to go to waste.

Yeah those Mahi Mahi make Chinook look like babies. We caught one about 15 lbs in Hawaii, was like a 25 lb salmon on steroids.  I'd take that fishing over freshwater any day.

+20 lb steelhead, +25 lb brown (they are getting fat on gobies), +35 lb king, +2L beer bottle.

I prefer beginning of August. By mid august onwards, especially if it's hot, the salmon already slow down on eating, and may not be as active.

I do strongly believe that criminals don't really care about any laws. That's why they break them, and are called criminals.

I use braid, and yes it's to fill up the spool, then put a full spool of mono, then tie your lead.

On ‎10‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 8:56 PM, John E Powell said:

Two riggers, one rod each. 1-2 wire divers per side (reg and mag size for deep and slide diver for upper), 1 weighted steel per side (rather than copper) off big boards or lead core (when fish are shallower) off inline boards.

Keep in mind that often 2 well run rigger rods will outfish 4 riggers and 8 rods that are overpowering your presentation.

Spreading out a pattern with a couple rods each riggers, divers, and weighted long lines will up your catch on big kings that are often put off by two much gear being pulled through a small area of water.


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I agree with this.

Yeah I've never seen that ... could it be eggs that are still developing?  Maybe they are small and still developing?

Are you referring to the black stuff all over it?

I love my Raven 14.5', 3 piece. Awesome rod!