TyeeTanic

Church Tackle TX 44 boards. Don't go any smaller than that. Trust me... I've replaced mine, until I got to the TX 44's

Why not braid backing ... first of all, you'll get WAY MORE on the reel, and I think the knot is way more secure too.

Blue works, green is good too ... but mostly the trick is to have something with glow.

How deep are you talking?

One thing that happens with the long wire is that fish take a run for the boat, and it's hard to feel that .... so the line slacks.  Fish off.

The only thing I know to do is to keep that rod as high up in the air as possible ... and having a long rod for the copper helps for that ... then you just have to be able to react fast enough to keep that slack off.

Also, did you notice the fish jumping out of the water (likely then to be a rainbow) ... that makes it really challenging to keep the fish on.

2 hours ago, Zinger11 said:

I've fished when the current was so bad we could only run dipsys on one side at a time depending on what direction we were trolling

 

Sent from my SM-G970U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

 

Yeah it can get bad sometimes, especially if you also have a cross wind pushing your boat sideways. A mate of mine had his rigger cable go into a prop, and he was using 16 lb torpedo weights ... it was insane.

Man, at that boat speed I'm surprised it's happening. Anyhow, all I can say is that underwater currents may have played a game with you, or even a good wind that was pushing the boat sideways, so when you think those dipsey lines are off to the side, they aren't, only resolution is to keep that copper dead center of stern until it's all out, and then hook up your planer board ... I wouldn't prematurely move the copper line to the side while it is still deploying ... you now know why.

Perplexed ... what boat speed are you at when you deploy?

Obviously it's sinking fast, or the dipsey lines are way too high.  You sure the dipsey isn't popping prematurely?

I think one advantage of the backing is you CAN get a good knot between the braid and the wire line. Direct on the arbor ... not sure I'd trust anything.

If I can offer some input. As others have said, speed is important ... doesn't take much more or less to dramatically impact the depth. Second is your terminal tackle. If you're pulling a big paddle, it's going to create more drag and lift the line up.

I suggest putting braid on as backing .... first of all it doesn't create as much drag in the water as mono will, and you will be able to get WAY more backing on that reel ... 150 yards is NOTHING. A 25 lb king will take all of that plus some.

Second thing it allows you to do is attach a torpedo weight right after you let out all the leadcore ... attach that after about 5 ft of braid, and THEN you will get the extra depth you are looking for!

Using them in front of lead core to get more depth, or off braid works well.

Yes, you need to look at the wind ... that's what causes it.  Basically when wind pushes all the hot water on the surface from one side of the lake to the other, and that water hits a shore ... it needs to displace water ... so basically the colder water on the bottom is pushed out deeper by the hotter water being pushed by the wind towards the shore.  That cold water then moves towards the opposite shore that is losing hot water, and displaces it ... which causes the turn over.

1. Line to spoon directly ... I'd think the line would get cut eventually.

3. Is the best, but use smallest bb snap swivel you can find ... I mean tiny!

Torpedo's in front of a leadcore when you need that extra depth! For sure!

My buddy uses them on his outriggers ... he uses otter boards.

The absolute best way to run copper is on outriggers and offshore planer boards ... if a fish is on, it comes off the clip and you are fighting only the fish.

I can almost guarantee you, if you tangle up that copper with a popped dipsey line ... you'll never do it again. LOL.

30 lb is basically the average line weight used, some guys go 40 lb, but I think that's not necessary.

Some guys will use 15 to 20lb but mostly only on leaders, to give more stealth and spoon action (more flexible line).

Need to back off the drags for that.

I think my net was 24" wide ... I sold it a few years ago, so can't measure, but it was a great net for sure.

Assume you fish Lake O.  Firstly, nothing beats having a network of guys to talk to, that will help you all stay on the kings. If you don't have that, start with the Lake O temperature transects. 

In spring you're looking for warm water (just look for pockets of warmer water), in summer you're looking for cold water (48F is good to find) ... that will tell you depth of lake and lure you need to be in.

https://www.glerl.noaa.gov/res/glcfs/glcfs.php?lake=o&ext=vwt&type=N&hr=06

After that you have to have your go to spots in the right depth of water ... lake bottom structure and currents is important.

Before you set lines, look at the sonar for a few minutes going perpendicular from shoreline out ... and see if you find bait fish or marks ... if not, don't bother, keep looking, go to next spot.

Look out for where other boats are ... go there, check for marks, look around, see if people are hooking up.

If it starts getting too late, and you need to drop lines, then drop lines, but don't expect a great day.

19 hours ago, jth21usa said:

That seems hard, do you know anyone local?

I'm from north shore, so no, I can't comment on anyone local to you.

I do have a buddy that did his boat several years ago ... I saw that boat a lot with my own eyes for

three years after he put it on ... and it looked brand new ... and he never had to clean it ... maybe a quick

washdown here and there, but no waxing or polishing needed ... it really looked like a low maintenance solution

to me.

Have you thought about wrapping it in vinyl instead?

I fished in Ontario yesterday, perfectly legally, for trout on a tributary. 

You'll definitely need a non-resident fishing licence assuming you are not from Ontario.

Don't know what the laws say about crossing the boarder within the lake, especially with COVID ... could be problematic.

Yes, looks like the angle to the back of the boat is seeing the fish a little earlier so showing a deeper head, and then as the fish gets closer it looses it sooner, and you aren't getting that nice deep return fish arc.  Definitely it makes sense.  What is your angle?

On ‎3‎/‎14‎/‎2020 at 11:53 AM, HB2 said:

Mid lake , Olcott to Rochester 

 

Mid July to first week Aug 

Bingo!

I'd say 30# is sort of the average, the go to, for any type line (mono, steel, wire, copper, braid) ... people have their reasons to go higher and lower.  Examples, use lower between the paddle and bait (or higher, 40lb before and up to the paddle), so if you hook bottom, you don't lose everything, just the bait with the lighter line.  Lighter on lures so the line is more flexible, giving action ... some go to 20lb or even 12 lb ... Copper or steel they go heavier (45lb) because some want a better sink rate).