TyeeTanic

Holy smokes - just checked out that link carpedium. That is awsome info - does it actually work?? The thermocline is sitting in the yellow band which looks like around 60 - 90 ft of water, depending on how far from shore you are. Does this make sense??

I found a submersible thermometer at LeBaron. Need to hook it up to a jig and drop it down. Leave it for 30 secs - 1 min and then bring it back up to test the water. Cost around $10, so not too bad. I might try it this weekend in 150 ft of water at 2 or 3 depths (50, 70, 90 ft) to get an idea of where the thermocline is. Will let you know how it works. Watch this space.

Hello all, With 4 rods in the water, and one of them with a fish on, is it advisable to keep trolling or do I have to wind everything in??? I tried trolling the other day while reeling in a fish and the fish went behind the boat. Ended up cutting the lead on the prop - so I figured it's better to just stop the engine and reel in the other rods - however at the time I only had 2 rods in the water. Now with 4 rods (got some new rod holders), it will be a mission to have to pull all the other lines out of the water. What's the trick - do I keep trolling and move the rod with a fish on to the front of the boat?

I just read the articles in the links above - and figured out there what down speed is. I generally troll around 2.5 mph - 3.1 mph, but that is essentially the idle on my motor. Guys say to troll slower down to 2.0 mph - but I won't be able to do that, not on my boat.

That helps a lot - after reading my post again - I found I made a mistake - if you use a snubber it must come between the dipsey and the flasher or you mess everything up. Okay - so essentially I use the same set up with flashers, where I go 30 lb wire, dipsey, snubber, 20 lb lead. I connect this to the lure or the flasher/fly arrangement. If the line breaks I lose the lure or the flasher/fly which costs me $20 max. That's not too bad. Thanks guys!

What is down speed?? How does it different from trolling speed?

Very funny carpedium! The mono lead isn't the problem, it is actually in the wrong place to snap - I lose the dodger and the fly if this happens. I would rather have the line break just ahead of the fly so this is all I lose. So, am I talking crazy - or do I have a point here and connect up 6" of 20 lb lead line between the dodger and the fly lead line?

Hello all, I have the following from reel to lure: - 30 lb Stainless Wire Main Line - ball bearing swivel connector to Dipsey Diver - swivel quick connect to 5 ft of 50 lb mono - swivel quick connect to Spin Doctor - connect to snubber chord 8" long - swivel quick connect to 30" 50 lb floro lead directly attachement to fly (purchased like this). My problem is if something is going to break, it will be the wire and I lose everything - Dipsey, Spin Doctor, Snubber and Fly + Leads/Swivels - all amount to almost $50 worth of tackle. I am thinking of putting in a 20 lb floro sacrificial line maybe 6 " long between the Snubber and the Fly. This way if anything breaks it will be the 20 lb floro and the most I lose is the Fly which will cost me $8. Big difference. Any recommendations??

Sorry! Didn't mean to hijack the page. My fault. Was in and out of too many topics and didn't realize what I was doing. If anyone has a response to the thermocline issue please visit my topic on Finding the Thermocline. Thanks. Sorry again. [ Post made via BlackBerry ]

Thanks chowder, I am on the west end of lake Ontario. I fish off Oakville - Bronte Harbor. Sometimes I head east to Port Credit, but no more than that. I haven't tried Hamilton Harbor yet, but may give it a go this weekend.

Just picked up 4 of these guys and 2 spin doctors. Thanks for the advice.

Coincidently, I just bought spoons 1, 5, 6 and 7 on a good friend's advice. I also got a colour called Monkey Puke - awsome name, eh?

Yup - thanks guys - I'll try the 80 - 120 ft depth. Just bought myself some new Spin Doctors and flies - will try those out at 80 ft this weekend. Will also try some red and blue spoons at 60 - 100 ft. My boat is a tad small (20 footer), so I figure I can get 3 lines in the water without tangling everything up, so will set up for 60 ft, 80 ft and 100 ft depths. Have a good one guys - and remember fishing is like enticing someone into having fun loving. You spend a lot of time and money trying to get some action, and then one day you finally hook up with a beauty for a quick grind, which makes it all worthwhile...

Hey Bluewater - what would you say we need to take off the dipsey charts if we are using steel or copper line. Should I cut 10 - 20% back off what the chart recommends?

Guys - I can't measure the horizontal thermocline - don't have the rig. Am I dead fishing for kings - or is there another old fisherman's trick I can use - other than looking for where everyone else is fishing??? Thanks.

Thanks Carpedium. What size/make spoons do you use. I am using the dartee no 2. It's shaped like a fish and kind of kicks side to side. That lure has helped me hit a lot of coho and steelhead, but no luck with chinooks. Are the little cleos any good?

Okay, I'm not that good with the lingo. When you say reds and pinks - are you talking spoons??

I've been using spoons for trolling, but I hear of a lot of people catching with flies. What kind of flies are good - surely not the same as what we would use in the rivers right???? How deep do you troll with them??? Tight lines guys and gals, tight lines!!!!!

You are definitely not too deep - in fact if it is a sunny day I would say you need to be slightly deeper. You could try changing to a lure that works well at 3 mph - I use a Williams Dartee No 2 and get a lot of bites at 3 mph. Try the blue or green spoons. Mark

Gentlemen, and ladies! I have been catching Coho's and Steelhead with ease, but no luck with Chinook. Am trolling 3 mph in 130 ft total water, at around 40 - 80 feet lure depth. I use spoons like the Williams Dartee 2 or Syclops - blue, red, green. What am I doing wrong???? Mark

By the way, if it helps I got the Eagle Claw Starfire Downrigger Rod with Roller Guides - I think the model is the SF404, made by Wrigth and McGill Co.

Ya skipper, it happened once to me today and that is why I lost one fish I hit. The line pinched in the side of the roller and mount on the top guide (smallest one). Was a little pissed about that. Question about feeding the line through the rollers. My first guide, the one closest to the reel, has two rollers one against the rod and the other on the top point of the guide. How do I fish the line through? Do I just go loosely between the two rollers, or do I go over under (kind of like feed through two pulleys) so the line is straightened out before it goes back to the reel??? I have mine just going between the two guides, but it is kind of loose in there and the rollers don't seem to be doing much, unless it's for when a fish is on???!?! Thanks, Mark

Okay - I went out and go wire yesterday, and then found out none of my loops were good for wire on my rod, so had to buy 2 new rods!!! I got 8 1/2 foot rods, heavy action, with stainless rollers. Nice rods, but ended up spending much more than I wanted to. The braid is on my existing rods, will use for jigging or an extra set of rods when another fisherman is onboard. I took them out today for a try - it's a nice setup - I really enjoyed using them. Got 2 Coho's with 4 hits.

Fishing Report Your Name / Boat Name: Pirate's Cove ============== TRIP OVERVIEW ============== Date(s): 24 June 2011 Time on Water: 06h00 - 12h00 Weather/Temp: 64F Wind Speed/Direction: Light west Waves: 0.5 m Surface Temp: 75F Location: Bronte and Port Credit LAT/LONG (GPS Cords): =============== FISHING RESULTS =============== Total Hits: 4 Total Boated: 2 Species Breakdown: Coho Salmon Hot Lure: Dartee, Syclops Trolling Speed: 3 mph Down Speed: Boat Depth: 100 - 130 ft Lure Depth: 60 ft ==================== SUMMARY & FURTHER DETAILS ====================

Oh - is the wire diameter about the same as the braid or thinner? I'm trying to figure out how much will fit on my new reels.