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lrg355

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Posts posted by lrg355

  1. I have lost one 14 lb weight with an STX.  I an very careful on the probe side.  They always wrap the cable more on one side of the pulley at the rear.  I always give the cable a "levelwind" bump to the other side of the pulley every few winds.  Just letting it retrieve by itself causes the cable to pile up on one side which will eventually "fall over" and cause a loose section.  On the next decent of the weight the loose section makes the already violent speed even worse. It's a shame that must be done but it is necessary.  The pivoting pulley at the end of the boom causes this as it is always pulled towards the transom making the cable wrap towards one side.

  2. 1 hour ago, bill13661 said:

    No problem getting through just be careful in sandy pond before inlet have to stay kinda close to shore trim motor up

    You wouldn't know it was dredged.  The dredging never lasts, one severe storm and it's gone.  It is ok now but will be a problem in late August.  Entering the channel from the north side of the pond is better.  Stay in close. On the north side there are a few bumpers someone put out as bouys. Even painted them red and green.  Entering the channel from the south side is very different than I have ever seen it before.  It is passable if you stay very far from shore most of the way. Slow and careful is the word if entering from the south.

  3. On your 5hs if you can hear the relay click when you push down the switch but it does not run , it is NOT the switch. It is one of the relays on the control board. You may need to shut down everything to listen for the slight click of the relay. The contacts are burnt if the relay coil clicks but there is no motion. Unfortunately you cannot change the relays as they are mounted and encapsulated on the control board.  It is easy to change the board on the 5.  I did one about a year ago.  They are available from Cannon. Not sure about the 10a or if the boards are available. 

  4. I have also read that using an automotive type battery charger when in the water is another potential problem.  A marine specific charger should be used.  I have a Noco Genius 3 bank in the GLS175 and it works well.

  5. As for anodes, zinc doesn't work well in fresh water.  Magnesium is the best choice for fresh water. Zinc is meant for salt water.  I have magnesium on my outboard plus I have a 2 lb drop in magnesium that I put in next to the hull and connect to it when I leave the camp for the week.  No corrosion/electrolysis issues that I know of.  Magnesium anodes are available from Boatzincs.com.

  6. 1 hour ago, LongLine said:

    That looks more like something was not properly grounded.  EVERY electronic device must be grounded to the battery,  NOT the boat, especially on an aluminum boat and the motor must be touching the water when the boat is in the water.  I found out years ago that radios, fishfinders, etc still draw miniscule electricity even when they are turned off at the unit in order to preserve their memory,  They also need to be mounted to the boat with an insulator between them and the boat. (i.e. rubber pad, gromets, etc)   That's why isolation switches are so important.  Batteries must be in a battery container with a lid and never touching an aluminum boat hull!  Stray currents are death to an aluminum boat.

     

    You can check for stray currents simply by having the boat on a trailer then simply touch a voltmeter to a bare spot on the hull and a metal fence post (or metal stake driven into the ground).   

     

    Irg - You gotta get that boat up on land & up off the trailer.   Then use the food-colored water.  

    Tom, your comment to Fishinman about the test for stray currents doesn't make any sense to me. With the boat on the trailer it is isolated from the ground, especially if it is dry with no water on the tires, etc.  No completion of any circuit, no continuity available to get any voltage reading.  Am I missing something ?   Agree with everything else about grommets etc for complete isolation.

  7. 3 minutes ago, lrg355 said:

    If I pull into my dock and manually pump out the bilge in the eve, in the morn when I step into the boat the auto bilge will kick on and pump out a few gallons. This is on a rain free night.  No telling how many times it kicked on over night.

    The last few days, no water in the bilge overnight.  All spring and last fall was leaking as previously described.  Checked this morn, not enough to pump even though we had a slight amount of rain last night

  8. 15 hours ago, LongLine said:

    Are you sure it's not just little wave spray or engine spray?  i.e After a ride in choppy water, did you check for water about 10 minutes after you dock?  A physical leak isn't going to cure itself.  Was the water real calm when you took the kids to the beach?  

     

    This last Monday I went from I-bay to the Genny.  Had about 1 1/2 ft chop out of the NW.  I slowed way down (to save my teeth & my back) .  When I pulled the drain plug on the trailer at the launch, I had a little water come out.  A few years ago, I did the same ride with my daughter sitting in a rear seat & she complained a few times about the wave spray. 

    If I pull into my dock and manually pump out the bilge in the eve, in the morn when I step into the boat the auto bilge will kick on and pump out a few gallons. This is on a rain free night.  No telling how many times it kicked on over night.

  9. They are below the bottom of the fishbox but above the waterline when the boat is at the dock.  They drain well when the overflow tube is not in.  I do get a small amount of water forced in when running into a chop but it runs out immediately.  Dont use the boxes for storage except for an anchor and line for that reason. There is a flexible drain tube about a foot long from the fishbox exit to the fitting in the side of the hull.  Is at a good incline for drainage.

  10. 1 hour ago, Shakemsam said:

    I know you said at the beginning of this post that your live well drain holes are on the sides of the bow. I've never seen a 175 gls set up that way. Im fact, I've never seen any boat's li ewell drain like that. Their overflow, yes! All Nymphs use tube style plugs in their wells that also function as overflow drains, that I have seen. Their drain has always been at the stern. Perhaps your's has been modified for some reason, contributing to the cause.Are you the original owner?

    Looked on line for used 93 GLS 175  to see the drains.  It is there on them in that year.  Earlier, like 89, they are not there.  Later also they are not there. 

  11. Koi16553042517212337651079575673028.thumb.jpg.5d653aee29648ee24a4d6561a457b4ed.jpg

    54 minutes ago, Shakemsam said:

    I know you said at the beginning of this post that your live well drain holes are on the sides of the bow. I've never seen a 175 gls set up that way. Im fact, I've never seen any boat's li ewell drain like that. Their overflow, yes! All Nymphs use tube style plugs in their wells that also function as overflow drains, that I have seen. Their drain has always been at the stern. Perhaps your's has been modified for some reason, contributing to the cause.Are you the original owner?

    The boat has never been modified.  I know the original owner and this boat since new. The pics show the drain/ overflow for the fishbox. It is out the side about even with the windshield area.  The fishbox fills when the overflow tube is put in and drains when removed.  Sea Nymph made a different style 175 a few years earlier. Had a completely different transom on it.  This is a 93. This style continued under the Lowe name into the late 90's.  

    16553041473181556715327774739634.jpg

  12. Update on mysterious leak!.  Over the last few days I have been taking my granddaughter to th beach.  I am located on Sandy Pond and have been using this boat to the beach.  I have been pulling into the sand in the Sandy Pond channel, pushing the bow about 5 ft out of the water. I dont usually use this boat for that as I have a pontoon boat for that type of activity but haven't put that in yet. Probably set the Sea Nymph in the sand about 6 times this week.  LEAK HAS STOPPED!!.  Go figure.  I am sure it will start again after a run in 3 ft or so  waves.  Some kind of intermittent leak in a forward seam??

  13. 16 hours ago, scobar said:

    does the splash well get water in it at the dock in calm weather? maybe its the splash well that is leaking. Out of the water you could try plugging the drains and just fill the well and see what happens

    Motor/splashwell holes are well above the waterline at the dock.

  14. 14 hours ago, jpiatkowski said:

    It sounds weird....but did you try replacing the plug?  My plug looked just fine but I was pumping out GALLONS after each trip.  I bought a $4 plug and voila.  Now I pump out a couple gallons after each outing. 

    Worth a look.

  15. 1 hour ago, Fat Trout said:

    A friend of mine had a leak he couldn't find on a 17' spectrum.  It ended up being a crack in the hull that was mostly obscured by the bunk. Pressure from the bunk pushed along a hull stringer over time and created a crack.   The way it sat on the trailer it didn't really leak when he filled the hull with water (not the same pressure inside to out as when it was floating and outside to in.    

    That's interesting.  This time when filling ith water I will be jacking it a bit off the trailer bunks, especially when tipping side to side.

     

  16. 8 hours ago, rolmops said:

    One thing here has not been mentioned yet. The bilge pump hose outllet. It may happen that the hose coming from the pump to the drain hole in the side of the boat sort of hangs down. This allows wave action to throw small amounts of water into the bilge pump and into the bilge from there. The easy fix is making sure that the bilge hose is kept higher than the bilge hose outlet so the water cannot get in. Don't ask me how I know this.

    Bilge hose discharge is very high above waterline.  As for the livewell/fishbox fill pump, it is in the transom below the waterline.  I have plugged it an ran a while like that. I dont use it much anyway.  No difference, still leaks.  Keep in mind, leaks the same amount weather sitting at the dock or out fishing.

      

  17. I will pull it from the water after next week. Let it set for a week so the outside is dry.  Fill it with water and food coloring.  Tip it severely so all water moves to rear, wait a few hours tha tip to move water to bow, wait than tip side to side.  Maybe I'll see something that way.  Not at the camp now but will be monday.  Will take pics of inside.  Removing the gas tank is not a big deal because it has it's own screwed down cover. I have had it off before to replace the sending unit.  Yes, I do troll with the 70 and use the electric motor on the bow for autopilot. 

  18. The shame of it is that it has an aluminum floor so I had never planned to pull it up.  If necessary to do a proper Gluvit job I will.  Probably will pull the gas tank first to get a view of some of the hull.  The gas tank has it's own removable, screwed in floor and takes up a considerable amount of the cockpit area. Pull the tank and run it from a 5 gal tank, put it in the water and see what developes.

  19. 18 hours ago, Great_Laker said:

    Check the seam between the inside of your transom and the transom splashwell. Before i repowered and replaced my transom and resealed that seam on my Sea Nymph it leaked like a sieve anytime i used the boat and waves or rain washed into the splashwell.  Even when your boat is tied up any movement of the transom in wind or waves can cause the transom to dip low enough for the splashwell drain holes to take on water and if the seam between the transom and splashwell is not water tight, water will leak into the boat. Seal it with 3M 5200 and you should be good to go, if thats not the issue, back to square one. The transom rotting and pulling away from the splashwell was the cause of my issues by the way, may want to take a look at yours if thats what it turns out to be. Good luck!

     

    Here is a link to a post from my Sea Nymph repower and transom repair which may help explain what i'm talking about. 

     

     

    This leaks just sitting at the dock when the water is well below the splashwell.

  20. On 6/6/2022 at 4:46 PM, Ecto2 said:

    Make sure your speed gauge tube is hooked up and not flopping around.  I had one become disconnected and it pumped water into the boat anytime it was running hard

    That was happening many years ago.  Got rid of the pickup and tube.  Just use gps speed now.

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