lrg355

Linear actuator looks interesting but does nothing for autopilot on the kicker. The steering cable setup as I described gets you kicker integration to your existing autopilot and steering from your current helm for about $200. Cant beat that.

My previous boat was a Sportcraft 272 with a single inboard and hydraulic steering with Raymarine autopilot running the rudder. I installed a 9.9 Yamaha 4 stroke kicker that was connected to the rudder arm inside the boat. I used a steering cable that was standard steering tube end at the Yamaha but was unique at the other end. It had a threaded outer shell so it could be mounted to a bracket and the inner push/ pull cable had a clevis that could be mounted to the rudder arm. Was able to order this cable from Salmon Country Marina in Mexico, NY. Never saw it anywhere else. Sold the boat in 2018. Don't have any pics of the setup. Autopilot worked good with the kicker and rudder both turning. Also easy to put in the slip with the kicker. Was a somewhat controlled crash with single inboard when docking before the kicker. Boat is still in use a a charter in the area. If you are interested in the name of the current owner pm me.

Navico is the parent company of Simrad, Lowrance and a few others. Reasonable to assume the same technology is used within the family.

One of the virtues I would be looking for is no wood in the hull. Most major companies started phasing out regular wood in the late 90's. Some continued to use a marine treated in the transom for a few years but mostly eliminated that a bit later. You can find a list on line that shows when most companies eliminated structural wood. Wood even in upper class boats like Whaler or Grady White will be a problem if it had any leakage around fittings, etc throughout its life.

Installed a new Motor Guide XI3 on my Sea Nymph GLS175 last year. Use it mainly for autopilot on spring browns. Had a few gremlins in the gps function from the start. Was notified by MotorGuide (which is Mercury) that there was a program update available. They sent a "dongle" which is the program that is on a memory board that plugs into the nema cable. Followed instructions, downloaded program, tried to calibrate gps as per instructions, nothing worked. Motor was useless. Called service line, they said take it to a servicing dealer. Called dealers from Oneida to 1000 islands, nobody wanted to look at it even though it was warranty. One recommended Schermerhorn near Alexandria bay. Called them, they said bring it in. Took the boat up since it was hard mounted. Richard was the MotorGuide and MinnKota Technician. He had same problem, couldn't calibrate. Reloaded program, same problem. Richard contacted factory, they said put in new gps module and control board. Would be a month for the parts. About a week later parts arrived. Took boat back, in about an hour new parts installed, calibrated and good. Richard was very quick, courteous and knowledgeable. One signiture and I was good.

Pull the spark plugs than see if it cranks over. Blown head gasket or other things could cause cylinder(s) to fill with water and cause " hydraulic lock".

Has a no fee state launch also. Turn left on Stanley Dr off at 3

Sandy Pond is about 5 mi away. Good for bass, pike, panfish etc. Can go out on the lake from there if it is calmer.

Very shallow, perhaps at most 2 ft deep on the lake side. On the pond side very shallow south of the channel. On the north side there is a bit more depth if you stay away from the shore and go outside the first sand mound that has formed on the pond side. However, it would be difficult to get out on the lake if there is any swells over a foot or two, especially with a heavier, fiberglass boat. Skeg and prop would be deep in the sand at the bottom of every wave. Looks like the season is shot for Sandy Pond to lake fishing on anything but a smaller aluminum boat.

Had a similar problem on a 2012 Yamaha T9.9. Always seemed to slow down on the pee hole. Was just the fact that the hose to the fitting on the end was a slight choke point that would constantly clog because my slip was in a weedy area. Kept a 6 in piece of stiff wire on board and poked out the hole occasionally, problem solved.

If it is a newer mercruiser, it is usually very easy. The tightening mechanism is a small rack and pinion setup. Loosen the outside locking nut, put a box wrench on the head of the pinion and turn it up until belt is tight. Hold the wrench on the pinion until the locking nut is tightened with another wrench. Unless it is in a very confined area it should be easy. Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app