lrg355

Oops, just lost a 16 lb weight.  Forgot to follow my own rules and didn't loosen the clutch on decent. 

Stopped at 28 ft for a stacker and it was gone!!!!  Luckily it wasn't the probe side.  I dont usually stack on the probe rigger. Was origional Cannon cable.  Going to go with other type.

Buy the cartridge for your external fuel filter/water separator that has the clear cup and drain valve.  You can put that type of separator on a standard housing.  They are available without the housing.  You can then drain very often until the problem is solved. May even be able to find one with an automatic drain that you can run a hose from into a container. Since it is a new boat it may have come from the place you purchased the gas.  I would treat that place like the plague. I would also check the seal around the gas cap, especially if it in a complete horizontal position

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Yes, the new cannons have a violent acceleration and deceleration that causes cable breakage.  I lost a 14 lb weight soon after using them that concerned me. Luckily it wasn't on the probe side. After that,  I started with snubbers. Also, I back off on the clutch when going down to the point that it is almost slipping. That allows a bit of slippage on the violent stop. Most importantly, when retrieving I do a sort of manual levelwind on the cable because it will stack on one side of the spool and after a while collapse over causing a slack spot. This will cause a problem on the next time down. Been running 16 lb weights with no problem so far, knock on wood.  Unfortunately these kind of measures are necessary.

Was wondering if that model did a good job.  I guess you use the footpedal to change direction and it holds the new course. Is that correct?

How is the minn kota working?

Len

Price drop

Minn Kota PD/AP 12v 55 lb 54 in shaft.  Removed from a recently purchased Sea Nymph 195.

Works well.  Dont know much about autopilot features but it does have a button to push for autopilot. 

Includes footpedal and quick removal mount. 

Recently installed new Terrova.

$200 OBO.

Was just trying to order from fish usa and the Avast security on my phone interrupted.  Said it was an unsecure site that does not protect info.  Anyone else have this problem?

I have lost one 14 lb weight with an STX.  I an very careful on the probe side.  They always wrap the cable more on one side of the pulley at the rear.  I always give the cable a "levelwind" bump to the other side of the pulley every few winds.  Just letting it retrieve by itself causes the cable to pile up on one side which will eventually "fall over" and cause a loose section.  On the next decent of the weight the loose section makes the already violent speed even worse. It's a shame that must be done but it is necessary.  The pivoting pulley at the end of the boom causes this as it is always pulled towards the transom making the cable wrap towards one side.

1 hour ago, bill13661 said:

No problem getting through just be careful in sandy pond before inlet have to stay kinda close to shore trim motor up

You wouldn't know it was dredged.  The dredging never lasts, one severe storm and it's gone.  It is ok now but will be a problem in late August.  Entering the channel from the north side of the pond is better.  Stay in close. On the north side there are a few bumpers someone put out as bouys. Even painted them red and green.  Entering the channel from the south side is very different than I have ever seen it before.  It is passable if you stay very far from shore most of the way. Slow and careful is the word if entering from the south.

On your 5hs if you can hear the relay click when you push down the switch but it does not run , it is NOT the switch. It is one of the relays on the control board. You may need to shut down everything to listen for the slight click of the relay. The contacts are burnt if the relay coil clicks but there is no motion. Unfortunately you cannot change the relays as they are mounted and encapsulated on the control board.  It is easy to change the board on the 5.  I did one about a year ago.  They are available from Cannon. Not sure about the 10a or if the boards are available. 

I have also read that using an automotive type battery charger when in the water is another potential problem.  A marine specific charger should be used.  I have a Noco Genius 3 bank in the GLS175 and it works well.

As for anodes, zinc doesn't work well in fresh water.  Magnesium is the best choice for fresh water. Zinc is meant for salt water.  I have magnesium on my outboard plus I have a 2 lb drop in magnesium that I put in next to the hull and connect to it when I leave the camp for the week.  No corrosion/electrolysis issues that I know of.  Magnesium anodes are available from Boatzincs.com.

1 hour ago, LongLine said:

That looks more like something was not properly grounded.  EVERY electronic device must be grounded to the battery,  NOT the boat, especially on an aluminum boat and the motor must be touching the water when the boat is in the water.  I found out years ago that radios, fishfinders, etc still draw miniscule electricity even when they are turned off at the unit in order to preserve their memory,  They also need to be mounted to the boat with an insulator between them and the boat. (i.e. rubber pad, gromets, etc)   That's why isolation switches are so important.  Batteries must be in a battery container with a lid and never touching an aluminum boat hull!  Stray currents are death to an aluminum boat.

 

You can check for stray currents simply by having the boat on a trailer then simply touch a voltmeter to a bare spot on the hull and a metal fence post (or metal stake driven into the ground).   

 

Irg - You gotta get that boat up on land & up off the trailer.   Then use the food-colored water.  

Tom, your comment to Fishinman about the test for stray currents doesn't make any sense to me. With the boat on the trailer it is isolated from the ground, especially if it is dry with no water on the tires, etc.  No completion of any circuit, no continuity available to get any voltage reading.  Am I missing something ?   Agree with everything else about grommets etc for complete isolation.

3 minutes ago, lrg355 said:

If I pull into my dock and manually pump out the bilge in the eve, in the morn when I step into the boat the auto bilge will kick on and pump out a few gallons. This is on a rain free night.  No telling how many times it kicked on over night.

The last few days, no water in the bilge overnight.  All spring and last fall was leaking as previously described.  Checked this morn, not enough to pump even though we had a slight amount of rain last night

15 hours ago, LongLine said:

Are you sure it's not just little wave spray or engine spray?  i.e After a ride in choppy water, did you check for water about 10 minutes after you dock?  A physical leak isn't going to cure itself.  Was the water real calm when you took the kids to the beach?  

 

This last Monday I went from I-bay to the Genny.  Had about 1 1/2 ft chop out of the NW.  I slowed way down (to save my teeth & my back) .  When I pulled the drain plug on the trailer at the launch, I had a little water come out.  A few years ago, I did the same ride with my daughter sitting in a rear seat & she complained a few times about the wave spray. 

If I pull into my dock and manually pump out the bilge in the eve, in the morn when I step into the boat the auto bilge will kick on and pump out a few gallons. This is on a rain free night.  No telling how many times it kicked on over night.

Pic of bilge discharge and fishbox drain

They are below the bottom of the fishbox but above the waterline when the boat is at the dock.  They drain well when the overflow tube is not in.  I do get a small amount of water forced in when running into a chop but it runs out immediately.  Dont use the boxes for storage except for an anchor and line for that reason. There is a flexible drain tube about a foot long from the fishbox exit to the fitting in the side of the hull.  Is at a good incline for drainage.

1 hour ago, Shakemsam said:

I know you said at the beginning of this post that your live well drain holes are on the sides of the bow. I've never seen a 175 gls set up that way. Im fact, I've never seen any boat's li ewell drain like that. Their overflow, yes! All Nymphs use tube style plugs in their wells that also function as overflow drains, that I have seen. Their drain has always been at the stern. Perhaps your's has been modified for some reason, contributing to the cause.Are you the original owner?

Looked on line for used 93 GLS 175  to see the drains.  It is there on them in that year.  Earlier, like 89, they are not there.  Later also they are not there. 

For some reason the pic of the drain inverted. It is 4 in above waterline

Koi

54 minutes ago, Shakemsam said:

I know you said at the beginning of this post that your live well drain holes are on the sides of the bow. I've never seen a 175 gls set up that way. Im fact, I've never seen any boat's li ewell drain like that. Their overflow, yes! All Nymphs use tube style plugs in their wells that also function as overflow drains, that I have seen. Their drain has always been at the stern. Perhaps your's has been modified for some reason, contributing to the cause.Are you the original owner?

The boat has never been modified.  I know the original owner and this boat since new. The pics show the drain/ overflow for the fishbox. It is out the side about even with the windshield area.  The fishbox fills when the overflow tube is put in and drains when removed.  Sea Nymph made a different style 175 a few years earlier. Had a completely different transom on it.  This is a 93. This style continued under the Lowe name into the late 90's.  

Update on mysterious leak!.  Over the last few days I have been taking my granddaughter to th beach.  I am located on Sandy Pond and have been using this boat to the beach.  I have been pulling into the sand in the Sandy Pond channel, pushing the bow about 5 ft out of the water. I dont usually use this boat for that as I have a pontoon boat for that type of activity but haven't put that in yet. Probably set the Sea Nymph in the sand about 6 times this week.  LEAK HAS STOPPED!!.  Go figure.  I am sure it will start again after a run in 3 ft or so  waves.  Some kind of intermittent leak in a forward seam??

16 hours ago, scobar said:

does the splash well get water in it at the dock in calm weather? maybe its the splash well that is leaking. Out of the water you could try plugging the drains and just fill the well and see what happens

Motor/splashwell holes are well above the waterline at the dock.

14 hours ago, jpiatkowski said:

It sounds weird....but did you try replacing the plug?  My plug looked just fine but I was pumping out GALLONS after each trip.  I bought a $4 plug and voila.  Now I pump out a couple gallons after each outing. 

Worth a look.

1 hour ago, Fat Trout said:

A friend of mine had a leak he couldn't find on a 17' spectrum.  It ended up being a crack in the hull that was mostly obscured by the bunk. Pressure from the bunk pushed along a hull stringer over time and created a crack.   The way it sat on the trailer it didn't really leak when he filled the hull with water (not the same pressure inside to out as when it was floating and outside to in.    

That's interesting.  This time when filling ith water I will be jacking it a bit off the trailer bunks, especially when tipping side to side.