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lrg355

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Posts posted by lrg355

  1. As for the drag causing the relays to burn up, I don't believe that is a possible factor. If there were no drag and it was a direct connection from motor to cable pulley, that would make no difference on motor load until the end of the cable hit something. What would be a.problem would be unacceptable load caused by a tight.pulley or tight bearings or something similar.
    .

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  2. If I have a problem the first thing I usually do is check the motor under load. To do this you can hook the cable on something stationary and set the clutch to allow about a.medium load equivalent to about 10 or 15 lbs. Remove the motor cables from the board. Make some cable extensions to reach the battery, one should have an inline fuse of about 20 amp. Attach one motor lead to the battery. When touching the other lead to the other side of the battery, it should run. If it runs backward, ie down, stop quickly before a mess is made. If it runs in the up direction under a med load your motor is ok. Reversing the leads on the battery will make it run in the opposite direction.
    You can make a mess of the cable fast if not careful and quick in the down direction. If the motor is ok, it is probably the short stop board. If you keep the motor leads disconnected and you push the switch up, you should hear the relay click on each push up. Same thing for the down switch push, should hear a slight click if listening carefully. This is a good indication the switch is ok but the relay on the board is probably not. If you reattach the motor wires to the board and can hear the relay click but get no motion, relay contacts are probably burned. You can check for 12 vdc on the terminals for the motor leads with a meter and may see 12 volts when the switch is pushed up. This does not mean much because I have seen 12 v there on a meter with no load but under motor load the burnt relay contacts can't do the job.

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  3. When you push the up switch it turns on the coil in the relay. The coil is then "latched" on electronically keeping the retrieve relay contacts closed. The switch is momentary and returns to the neutral position when released. The up relay remains latched electronically until the cable clears the water and circuit break causes it to unlatch.
    To go down you must hold the switch as there is no electronic latching


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  4. The older mag 10 cannons used Omron relays that were rated for 5 ramps and they would not hold up well. The 5st and 10 stx use a much larger relay but they seem to malfunction prematurely. That website you referenced seems to have set up the new st/stx board to be used in the older Mag 10. Good news for older model Cannon owners.
    Most of the time guys just put in a switch and get rid of the board in older units when they go out.


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  5. Damn spell checker keeps on changing my words. Meant to say 150 qt. It would be good for a swim platform mount. I currently have a 150 Rubbermaid that I purchased at Sam's about 10 years ago for about the same $ and still is in good shape.
    The only problem with it is that it is difficult for one person to lift with anything inside because it is hard to open your arms enough to grab the molded in handles properly.

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  6. I have 8 of the Coldwater 453s and had exactly the same problem as described in the previous comments. Seemed to get worse after a year of use. After 2 years I called the Okuma office and complained. Even though they were out of warranty, I was given a repair authorization number to send back to Tuna Tony's. Talked to Andy on the phone and he said the new drag washer setup would solve the problem. Sent them out and had them back two weeks later. Just paid for shipping out. They are excellent now, no problems. At the time about 2years ago Andy said they don't sell Coldwaters any more because Okuma never fixed the problem. Don't know if they fixed it by now. I also have Covector 30s for spring browns. I have since installed the washers supplied by Tuna's and they are much better. Installing the drag washers is not difficult.

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  7. Been looking at them myself. The Suzuki looks interesting. There were some comments about it not being a true high trust because of the gear ratio but it is very similar to the Merc in displacement and gearing. The Merc is made by Tohatsu anyway.
    The one that differs is the Yamaha T9.9. It has a much smaller displacement and lower gear ratio to compensate. The Suzuki 9.9 has the same displacement up to their 20 hp so it is a detuned 20 which will be working a bit less. Certainly like the idea of fuel injection as I am tired of carburetors.

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  8. The deep cycle batteries are usually not maintenance free. They are very thirsty and require water frequently. If you are not very vigilant and let the plates get exposed, they will be damaged. Some look like they do not have access to refill with DISTILLED water but if you look and pry carefully the covers with caps are there.
    I have been using the Duracell type from Sam's Club. They are made by Deca batteries in Pennsylvania and have been good for the price. Of course keeping them fully charged as much as possible is the other factor.

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