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lrg355

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Posts posted by lrg355

  1. I have previously owned a 2001 Sportcraft 272. I had a few of the sliding windows that had disintegrated gaskets. Could never find them anywhere. After I sold it I ran across a company that had the exact right thing. Try an outfit called Pompanette LLC. They specialize in marine window gaskets in seals.
    As for the kicker, i had a Yamaha T 9.9 XPA on it. The 25 in shaft worked great and it was quiet and smooth. Worked well up to 3 ft waves than it struggled after that. Burned almost no fuel. If I would do it today, I would go with the 15 hp merc with EFI. Low noise and low vibration makes a 5 hr trolling morning much more enjoyable. If I want to hear engine noise and vibration I will stand by the highway and wait for a Harley to go by.

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  2. Put in the new board and it worked fine. Will remove relays when I get home. May be able to solder in a socket so plug in relays can be used. Will check it all out.

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    Tried to de-solder the relays from the board. The 3 tabs from the contacts came out fine. The 2 tabs from the relay coil did not work so well. Their "trace" was on the opposite side of the board and did not completely release. The traces pulled away from the board and broke away staying on the relay solder tab. I was able to solder a small piece of wire on each of the remaining trace and I hope to save the board. Before I try to remove the second relay, I will get a hotter soldering iron and a different method to suck up the molten solder from the trace. I was using a small vacuum bulb and never had any luck with those. I need to get some of the solder wicking flat cable which works better. The relays are available from Digi-key for $1.94 each. They have cut down tabs to go into the holes on the board. It may be more appropriate to leave the relays intact and solder wires to the back side. There are relay sockets with wires available. The relay is a A21CSP from CIT Relay and Switch Co. An A21CSQ would have the full 1/4 tab to go in a socket. This would work well as long as the old relays continue to move even if the the contacts are burned.
    It would also be possible to cut the relay case apart , remove the contacts and coil to gain access to the soldered tabs. Then solder the wires from a socket to them. This may work better.
    Still working to improve solder removal and technique.20200804_160441.jpeg20200804_160531.jpeg

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  3. Familiar problem. I am helping a neighbor with a 5ST. Same inside as a 10 STX. Wont run after the winter in the garage. I noticed the relays clicking when pushing the switch up and down. Pulled the cover, could feel the relays pulsing when switched. Thought it may be the motor. Pulled wires off the board and jumped to 12v directly. Motor worked fine. Interesting. Checked voltage at the board on the motor terminals with a meter.
    +12 in one direction and -12 volts in the other. Now very interesting!
    All looks good. STILL WONT RUN. Drawing on 42 years of experience with machine controls I am betting one or both of the relays are cooked. The contacts allow enough current flow to be useful for the meter check but any large current draw to run the motor will not happen. I have seen this before. This is a common problem on relays used on winches.
    I haven't taken the board out yet but I am betting the relays are soldered and encapsulated in epoxy on the back side. I have carefully replaced them on an old Mag 10 years ago. This time the neighbor will be buying a new board.



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  4. Decided to try a technique I saw online for cleaning silverware on NK's. Consists of putting aluminum foil in a glass bowl with baking soda, salt and water. The results were amazing. Looks better than new. The 28 in the picture was a mess to start. I let it stand overnite. You can find that technique online. Keep in mind the NK body must have good contact with the foil.

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