BrokeOff

http://www.fishusa.com/Product/Eze-Lap-Diamond-Hook-Sharpener just bought one of these and been sharpening all points on spoon trebles. youtube video shows how to use it and do the thumbnail test. hooks are way sharper than when you get them new

mono is awful with dipsys. get wire and you will love it

when you pull spoons behind flashers/spinnys you make the leader longer so they arent affected or barely have a change in action. so a 3-4 ft leader for 8" flasher. a-tom-miks behind flashers are far more productive IMO

maybe im misunderstanding, but i have that same antenna and it works with standard coated cable. im using cannon coated cable right now.

Is there anywhere that sells just the dipsy weight enclosed in the base plate? I had a standard clear dipsy come up cracked with no weight. The rest of the dipsy is fine. Clear dipsys and spoons seem to take a lot of hits for me, even more than black IMO.

yea i tie in mono 30# big game with willis knot. usually 20-30 ft of mono and albright that to braid

ran a 5 and a 10 color sunday out in mexico bay for browns and no takers. changed the 5 out for a 7 still no takers. then started to head out deep late in the day for kings and the 7 color got hit with a dreamweaver get r done SS. That was the only hit we had on lead all day and we missed it. But riggers were popping and divers were on fire all day.

ive been using the 'more action' side of spinny. doesn't matter if they strike cause they're hungry or cause they're aggrivated as long as they strike

pro troll white/glow pro troll pig pen 1 or 2 spin dr. white/glow with green dots or white/glow with black dots spin dr. green nuke all in 8" size shop around online. you can get the standard colored pro trolls for $9 online. I wouldn't spend more than $9.99 or $10.99 on a spin dr either. the stinger taped pro trolls are gonna run you more $.

80# or 150# got them off of R and R's website mytacklebox.com his flashers come with 150#. but I mainly use 80# with spin dr. and pro troll i bought some lighter ones at allseasons but I don't like the way they open so easily.

used yesterday and everything still worked. very lucky to still have it!

While driving 27mph somehow my middle downrigger a cannon mag 10 fell off the back of the boat into the water today. Right above the prop! And through some miracle we got it back thanks to it still being plugged in. What are the odds that it will work after this? Decided to dry it out before trying it again.....

i pulled the cable out to the bad spot last night, only to find that it really is chewed here and there pretty much down to the first 5ft above the ball. now im thinking it didnt hit the wire dipsy but it is either the pulley or the weight retriever thats eating it. if the boat wasnt at the marina right now id be buying a fish hawk today. since it is im going to try and get the season out of the coated cable....

Yesterday when fishing I noticed that I had a large section, 5 or 6 inches of cable that was half stripped of cable. It must have hit my wire dipsy line at some point and sheered the coating off. This cable is maybe a month old tops. Would hate to have to shorten it 50 ft to get to the spot. When this spot is in the water goodbye depth raider signal. Does the liquid electrical tape do the job? or am I better off cutting it and reterminating. Open to any repair methods.

I had a detailed report all typed up and hit the wrong button and it got erased. so heres the short version: fished 6 to 1. it was not flat like it was suppose to be. it was not a south west wind like it was suppose to be. it was direct west and by afternoon north west with white caps as far as i could see. we wouldnt get our first fish until 10am when i pulled lines to quit and we had a small chicken on. back go 2 riggers. got another laker. out go the 2 wires again. another laker. out goes the 7 color just straight back this time instead of off boards. while letting that out 75 rigger goes. king! rookie net job we netted the fly instead of the fish, got away. estimate it was only about 12lbs. was confident we could get more. wind started ripping. pulled lines frantically started main motor and started heading in. downpour so hard i could barely see. got in didnt look to bad turned around to go back out nope not happening still building seas a few miles out... overall 3/5 with all hits on riggers f/f except one on UV gator 7 color early in the am. fish peeled drag and was gone before we got there. very SLOW morning afternoon bite better at least.

Been out a few days using Adam2000's keel design now and thought I'd post a review for those of you interested. Gotta say they are pretty awesome. My otters pull angry way out from the boat and they stay out. As stated above they are a single keel with a full weight (not an additional keel or 1/2 keel to add to your otter). I have mainly been pulling cores right now for shallow or high fish, but I tried a 300 copper today with a core next to it and the boards were still ripping unphased. These are going to be at their best in the upcoming 2 months when everyone is pulling heavy coppers. Another plus to his design, I didn't have to get out the drill and make any new holes or re-rig the tow rope. Just remove the stock ones put these on and go. All in all they make your otters work like they should out of the box. Highly recommend upgrading your otters with these keels. No pics to share as of now b/c patent is in the works.

nice, always like to see what people are getting their fish on over there

never spliced wire but for your other question. I have the same reel and 300 yards of 50# power strike spectra braid as backing and 400' of 45# attomik copper on it. Im not sure if the PP is a different diameter or not. That thing is filled to the brim, the reel is awesome. Heres a link to the line I bought (when it was cheaper): http://greatlakestackleshop.com/proddetail.php?prod=PS-005