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VanderLaan

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  1. Please delete post
  2. Here is another tutorial that you might find useful.
  3. BTW, your spoons look nice. If you haven't already, the "helping hands" from Harbor Freight are nice to have.
  4. I would suggest that you dry your paint with a blow-dryer after every color. That way you won't be layering wet paint on top of wet paint. For me, paint blisters when I apply it too thick and don't dry it thoroughly between coats. Good luck with the KBS. I love the results, but storing it is a PITA. If you get any KBS in the grooves of the can, you will have to cut the can open. I store it in a mason jar, with a folded piece of saran wrap between the jar and the top. You will also likely have to use Bloxygen to keep it from curing in the jar. Even then, you will likely get a layer of hardened sealer on the top of your jar. Better to "tap the can" as explained in the link below. As far as using it goes, thin by 20 percent with some Acetone. While dipping is easier, I would suggest that you brush it on, as dipping it will result in the excess dripping back into the jar and making the storage/curing issue even worse. Better to pour some in a smaller jar or dixie cup and brush out of that. Hold the spoon over the cup and after it stops dripping (try a 10-15 count), hang it to dry with an opened paper clip. Put another opened paper clip in the bottom hole of the spoon to help reduce the amount of KBS in the bottom hole. After ten minutes or so, use a toothpick or a nail to clean the KBS out of the holes. KBS is pretty tough stuff. I use it on cranks and spoons and it holds up quite nicely. That said, I am looking into UV cured sealers, as they are easier to apply, cure in minutes and don't cure in the jar. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/29446-tapping-a-can-of-dick-nite/
  5. Yes, you can run any lure on LC or copper - FF, spoon, plugs, etc.
  6. Put me in line. If you have any left, I would take a dozen 3s and 4s.
  7. I bought the cimeter and the straight fillet knives mentioned in the post above and have been happy with them. Don't let the low price fool you, the cimeter is the real deal.
  8. Came into a few boxes of older mylar (?) trolling flies. Many of them were folded or bent over. Other than that, they appear to be in great shape. Is there any way to straighten the kinked material? How do you store your flies to keep them straight? Thanks.
  9. Not sure if these qualify as cheap, but a quick google search came up with this: https://www.franksgreatoutdoors.com/luhr-jensen-j-plug-hook-harness-g66617 Why not tie some of your own? Get some split rings, bead chain, dacron/braid and hooks. Seems like you could tie up a bunch in half an hour or so.
  10. So, basically tie a loop in the wire and then thread the loop through the eye of the swivel and snug it down on the opposite side? No concerns about the kink in the line weakening it?
  11. Curious what knot you all use for attaching a swivel to wire line. What size swivel do you use?
  12. I should try and actually answer your question. I use Createx and Wicked airbrush paints. The Hobby Lobby in town has them. They may look expensive, but a little goes a long way. The Wicked pearl paints are great. Tried hobby paints from WalMart and they are a PIA, as they need to be thinned. I also use a hair drier to set the paint. When you put on your clearcoat, be sure to watch out for puddles or thick coats, as they tend to pull/wrinkle the paint.
  13. Sorry that you are having to deal with this. Sounds like a real short-sighted dirt bag. I would post this on every forum, Facebook, etc. As noted above, you would save a lot of people the agony of having to deal with this guy and cut off his business at the same time.
  14. I paint crankbaits and spoons. I use KBS diamond coat as a sealer. It's not cheap, but it works great. If you decide to buy some, shoot me a PM and I will tell you how to store it so it does not harden in the container.
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