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jigstick

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Everything posted by jigstick

  1. Most likely with a boat that size you will have hydraulic steering. I would look at the Garmin GHP autopilot with Shadowdrive and a Garmin smart pump. But that is just my opinion.
  2. I just finished my install as well. Got everything all in place and wired up to the Seatalk NG backbone. I have yet to launch the boat and do the dockside calibration. Vetting…Try playing with that setting. My impression is if you put it on "powerboat" or "performance"…whatever that one is…the drive unit really tries to keep you super tight straight. So when going slow i.e. trolling…it will kinda zigzag to the point your lines / rods may get tangled. You want SLOW GRADUAL change. Try it on the other settings like cruise or leisure. That MAY help. Not sure why your EV1 won't calibrate. Ill look into that. I also remember reading through the manual and seeing "Gain" settings…which may need some tweaking for you. I have a question now…After installing the drive unit to the steering wheel…I now have about 1/2 - 1 inch of slop when turing the wheel clockwise / counter clockwise before the outdrive actually starts to turn. Have any of you guys noticed this? I had a small amount of it PRIOR to installing the drive, but It seems like I picked up some more. Everything is mounted up tight.
  3. Chas Do you have a pic of the enclosure? My mounting plate is in clamps right now….the Azek needs glued together with PVC cement. Ill post up some pictures in a bit
  4. Huge thumbs up to Hodgesmarine. Not only did they have the best price on the EVO200 Sportpilot, but they also threw in $20 two day shipping. Got mine right on time. Furthermore, the kit INCLUDED the rudder feedback unit…where other vendors made you pay extra for it. This is great, because I may eventually install it just to tweak the system a little better. I an going to start my install today. Im going to work on the P70R control head. It calls for a 3.5-4in hole in the dash, which I do not want to do. So I am going to make a mounting back for it out of Azek, router the edges to a nice contour. That way the P70R will mount flush to the dash without needing such a big hole. Ill only have to drill a hole for the spur cable. Ill post pics when I get some of it done.
  5. I always remove the front treble. It puts better action on the lure, and doesnt get in the way when the fish is flopping around in the net.
  6. jigstick

    Dunkirk ny report

    I know the smallies are getting hammered right now. Trolling in the shallows seems to be producing a mixed bag of fish. Lots of smallies, good amount of browns and steelies, lakers in deeper water, and if youre lucky....a walleye. I still plan on heading out this weekend. When will you be going out again
  7. jigstick

    cold front

    I dont know if I would do anything much different. fishing fronts always is a crap shoot. I know on erie they are in the shallows and hitting stick baits. Renoskys, Reef Runners. Run them shallow, and 100ft back. Chartreuse, Wonderbread, Crystallina, Silvers, and Clears.
  8. any boat well stocked with beer
  9. For you guys that have finished the install…have you noticed any difference in your steering when the pilot is NOT engaged? Did it add any slop into the steering at the wheel? How long does the dockside calibration / sea calibration take? For example, if i get to the launch an hour before I would normally set out, will that leave me enough time to go through the calibration processes so that I could use the pilot that same day?
  10. jigstick

    Dunkirk ny report

    Ill be fishing out of Barcelona this weekend...weather permitting. What are you catching the steelies on? Flashers and flies? Spoons? Which colors...I crush lake trout and walleye out of Barcelona and Northeast, but have never done well with steelhead there. Ive trolled up to Brockton sholes looking for steelies with no luck
  11. I just use my teeth or side cutters.
  12. I always use clear. A buddy uses purple. We catch the same amount of fish. I dont think it makes a difference really.
  13. This is pretty typical. My VHF has a built in GPS on it. My Chartplotter also has GPS. My Sonar box and transducer has a paddle wheel. For SOG, my VHF and Chartplotter are identical. They are pulling speed from the satellites, which does not take into consideration any water currents / waves. My paddle wheel reading is always different than the other two, because it DOES take into consideration the currents. For trolling purposes, I would use the reading from the paddle wheel. Because that is how fast you are going IN RELATION to the surface of the water. Your STW is always going to be different than your SOG.
  14. ON a side not...I have a Raymarine DSM25 box sounder with an Airmar P58 sonar transducer. If I move my Fishhawk transducer to the same side as my Airmar P58, will there be any interference picked up on my sonar? My sonar runs at 50 / 200 hertz, and the Fishhawk runs at 75 or 80 I think. Anybody know? I mounted a Sternsaver mounting plate, and would like to move my fishhawk ducer over onto it.
  15. Dont get me wrong, i love Seafoam, and use it in every vehicle i have. But sometimes it does cause rough idling. In my bo at, it takes 32oz to treat the entire tank, which I believe is 42 gallons or so. Where I fill up with gas, Stabil is already added. Having 32oz of Seafom and a tank full of Stabil as well is ALOT of alcohol to have mixed in the gas. It MAY be that. Before you go for a carb rebuild I would run as much as that Seafoam treated gas out of the tank as you could. remember, that Seafoam is dissolving a bunch of dirty buildup in the engine, cylinders, AND carb. You have have just dislodged a bunch of **** and it needs burned through. Just an Idea. Certainly a Carb rebuild and fuel/water seperator change isnt going to hurt, and it should be done every few years or so. But try getting some fresh gas in there. Seafoam caused rough idling in my tractors and boat before when a full treatment was added. nothing wrong with that, its doing its job. Cleaning everything up. Once I burned the treatment through, and added fresh gas, it ran great.
  16. Vetting With the new EV1 sensor, it can be mounted just about anywhere. On a vertical surface like a bulk head, or it can be mounted on a flat surface like a table. Just keep it at least 3 ft away from any speakers / compasses / etc. Mount it with the arrow facing forward, and keep it in line with the with the long access of the boat. Do not have it tweaked left or right...it has to be mounted as STRAIGHT as possible with the long access. I think the manual says keep it within 5 degrees of straight. It has to do with yaw or something. I am going to mount mine in my cuddy as well. probably on one of the walls in the head. The P70R will go on the dash The ACU200 is going in a recessed part of my gunwale, just behind my throttle. I am going to keep the Seatalk bus under the dashboard. That puts it in a central location. Then all of the spur cables will be routed up to there and hook in. Should make for a clean look. I figured out how to wire in your Chartplotter. On the 5 way Seatalk bus...Cap one of the blue ports with a terminator fitting. On the other other blue port, hook up the backbone cable that came in the kit. Then onto that backbone cable, screw on one of the T fittings that came in the Kit. On the BLUE port on the T fitting, put the other terminator. On the other port on the T fitting will go the spur cable up to your chartplotter. You may need some type of adapter cable there depending on if your Chartplotter is Seatalk NG compatible. If it is a newer raymarine then it should be. If its a Garmin, and has NMEA2000, then you will need an NMEA2000 - to- Seatalk NG adapter. Let me know what you have, and I can post a link to the appropriate cable. Another thing I just came across was the "RF" grounding for the ACU200. Im trying to figure that out. It says to wire it to the main RF ground on the boat. Im not even sure if I have something like that. If you dont, then it says to wire that to any "Neg" bus. So I will be wiring that to the Neg terminal on my fuse panel. I ordered my extra spur cables from HodgesMarine.com. Does all that make sense?
  17. The ACU200 included in the new Evolution Autopilot systems provides power to the Seatalk backbone. So when you connect the spur cable from the ACU into the five way hub, it provides the power to the backbone. Its new. If you are using an older SPX Sportpilot, I believe the backbone does require its own power supply.
  18. Vetting I just ordered mine from HodgesMarine. They had the best price. I had to order a 16ft spur cable for the EV1 Sensor, and two 9ft spur cables for the P70R controller and ACU200. My install is a little spread out. From what I can tell the install will go like this: 1: Mount the ACU, Drive Unit, and EV1 Sensor, and P70R where you want them. 2: Mount the Seatalk 5 way adapter where you want it, and put the two terminators on the blue ports. 3: Hook up power to the ACU200. Attach power wires from drive unit to the ACU200. Attach ACU200 spur cable 4: Wire the EV1 Sensor and P70R controller with their spur cables 5: Attach the ends of the spur cables to the 3 ports left open on the 5 way Seatalk Hub. Power it up. At least this is how mine is going to be for the time being. I will integrate my Raymarine A60 into the network at a later date. But to do that, I believe you can use a T-piece adapter and splice into the backbone somehow. The cable kit included a "backbone" cable, but I don't think I need to use it at the time being because I am only wiring 3 components to the network, and they all fit on the 5 way. Is this basically how you are doing yours?
  19. So I ordered the Evolution 200 Sportpilot with an Evolution Cabling kit. Are are the cables needed to get up and running included in this kit? It seems to me that i would need 2 more spur cables to hook up to the Seatalk network. Or does the P70R, ACU22, and EV1 sensor all come with a cable attached to them and ready to hook up?
  20. Im ordering up my EVO 200 Package as well. I spent some time this weekend making the bracket for mine. Also ordered the Actisense adapter to wire to the Raymarine Seatalk backbone. That way I can plot a course on my chart plotter through all of my prior marks and numbers, and have the pilot steer me through those spots. Cant wait for this. Ive been waiting 2 years for an autopilot. Going with the Sportpilot is going to save me $1000 compared to going with the Sitex / Octopus drive unit. Post some pics of your installs…i.e. the drive unit, and the P70r Control head on your dash. I need ideas for dash layout
  21. Fishhawk is awesome to deal with
  22. Does anyone know if the drive in the new Evo Sports is the same drive that was in the Sportpilot Plus? I swear I saw a picture of the drive unit mounted sideways, going horizontally across the dash. I wonder if it can be installed like that...?
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