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  1. I've tried the loop, it just untwists and spins the rubber band. I will try a double half hitch and see if that works. I was doing a half hitch, then over hand knotting the rubber band around the braid and even that was slipping through. I believe this is cabelas ripcord or some other power pro knock off. 30 lb
  2. Would you take $100 for just the Cisco mounts?
  3. We use rubber bands on our releases when we are walleye fishing because it's nice to be able to watch the stretch for small fish. Also use them for fixed cheaters on the riggers. The problem im having is because we use such light rubber bands and 30lb braid mainline the braid tends to just slide through the rubber band. Wondered if anyone has had the same issue and has come up with a solution. I've tried clinching the half hitch tighter to the point of almost breaking the rubber band and no help, tried loops in the line but the loop just untwists and spins the rubber band. It makes it difficult to pop a planer release to switch baits around
  4. I'm looking to buy a set of used outriggers. Prefer 15 ft. If anyone has a set they may want to sell, shoot me a message
  5. Boat is a 21' trophy WA. It's pretty loaded down, we put a 112# ulterra up front and are currently running (3) 31 series deep cycles up in the bow of the cuddy until our 36V 200AH lithium cell shows up. Plus a 15hp Honda kicker on the back pushing (I would think with this double pushing/pulling motor setup when trolling the boat itself really shouldn't be crabbing much but I guess it's possible). When you say widen them do you mean the space between the 2 boards? Making the gap between the 2 boards 16"? This would involve making new crossmember braces which isn't a problem, just want to make sure I'm understanding. We tried moving the tow bolt 1" down and 1" back as per Frank at amish outfitters recommendation, however that really didn't seem to have any effect at all, that's when he sent us the rudders to try. Those seemed to help a bit but the issue is still there. Also, yes we run the snubbers that came with the boards.
  6. I have been battling an issue that I'm hoping maybe some of you guys may have dealt with and maybe have a solution to. I mainly walleye fish Lake Erie and some spring browns early season before walleye opener also. Just this past year we switched to full sized planers and mast (great lakes planes mortar launcher and reels setup) from inline boards mainly because we didn't like fighting the board and they were a pain with any rookies in the boat who weren't used to them. We are running amish outfitter boards both now have the additional rudder that Frank supplied us that he told us might help. The issue we are having is in the wind and anything greater than a 1' chop one side board always ends up almost behind the boat while the other side is out where it should be. I'm assuming this is from the wind crabbing either the boat or the wind side planer towards the boat. We run anywhere from 1.8-2.5 at the ball (surface speed varies of course) but I didn't think this would be too slow to run these boards after hearing everyone online tout how hard they pull. Im inquiring on here about a set of used otter boats in hopes that maybe that type with a double keel will track better for us in the wind and a bit of a chop. We never run more than 2 rods per side with 6-7 colors of lead at most per rod, so they definitely aren't being overloaded either. Sorry for the long winded post, hopefully someone here has a magic solution for me
  7. Looking for a set as well, double keels preferably
  8. Still available? I'll take them for $30 if that works for you
  9. I am in Buffalo, shoot me a message and I'll get you my cell number. Maybe you can text me some photos and we can work out a way to get it fixed. It's a bit of a pain to get the reel seats loose but I've done a bunch before. We can put a new handle on from the back side too so you don't technically have to rewrap any guides. I do a ton of reel seats and butt caps for Danny, he's a great guy but you will wait a long time if you can even get him to agree to do a repair for you. He's just too busy. It's a fairly straight forward fix really, if you are so inclined I could even show you how to do it on your own on a piece of threaded rod with a hand drill. I know a lot of guys who have done handles this way before they bought a lathe.
  10. Would you take $50 and I can pick them up Saturday, I'm in Cheektowaga so not far at all
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