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Tyee II

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Everything posted by Tyee II

  1. It also says all you see for 300, and then there's no pic?
  2. I would consider if you were willing to ship one or 2 of these.
  3. I have a local Cannon service center not too far from me. I called them and asked, because I had heard they had issues with the old cords. Fran said yes, It's free. Bring em on in. It will need to be done by a service center, I believe, but no questions asked for me. Mine were fine still but I wanted the new cords because my riggers will be sitting in the sun for the whole summer now in a slip.
  4. I just bought 3 of those from fish 307 myself so I can have battery side connectors on both boats and switch my riggers back and forth to the small boat for spring and fall. They are definitely not cheap, but hard to find used unless you have time to wait.
  5. Do you have the old style black connectors or the new yellow ones? If it's the black ones, I have 3 of these in great shape. Also, if they are the older style Cannon will replace them with the newer ones for free.
  6. When I ordered my raised tracks, I had some ratcheting dipsey holders that I ordered at the same time. I got an email the next day telling me the rod holders were backordered for 8 weeks and asked if I still wanted to order them. I said yes and they showed up in 5 weeks. I ordered my stuff from Big Papa when they had a sale on Traxstech last October but the stuff ships direct from Traxstech. I only have 2 of the 3 stanchions or risers installed and my system is just hand tightened at the thumb screws right now and it is very solid. I made miters in the double sided trolling bar with an aluminum 90 degree L plate I bolted the track together at the corners with. It's real solid, and Jeff said he has done this for customers before. I think if you have the time to be a little patient, you will be happy in the end.
  7. I think it's a great option for certain things (the plastic), but I just couldn't use that for rod holders (definitely not a dipsey holder). I am planning on drilling and tapping some black track insert pieces for downrigger cable fasteners.
  8. I had them make me some custom hinged stanchions for my raised track system I am installing. I'm hoping they are in with that order he has coming from anodizing. I have been waiting patiently since early December for them so I can finish my install. In my experience, sometimes email was better, other times a phone call payed off. Jeff is very busy with shows, unfortunately it is right at the same time we all want to get stuff done on our boats. At least I know my mounts will be quality construction and match my system.
  9. Just looked at your link and those are the ones I got. It sure sounds like they do come with the RAM balls judging by the description...mine didn't. If you get them and want to dump the balls, I will take them off your hands for a reasonable price.
  10. Mine did not come with the RAM balls. I think they just show them for reference. FYI...the RAM tube rod holders work great for most applications.
  11. The RAM adaptors are slightly taller than the universal adaptors so you don't have to cut the base of your anglers pal down. That's whst I was trying to express in my previous post. The RAM base looks identical to the anglers pal base. Same hole pattern too...
  12. Just make sure to chamfer the inside of your holes on the board for a mechanical attachment. I used a dremel to do mine and it was quick and easy. Also, check the UV resistance of your cutting board material...not sure it's the same as Starboard material.
  13. Those bases look to be the same as RAM bases. The adaptors I got from Traxstech were slightly taller than the track to allow the RAM base to mount. I don't think the adaptor will fit in a tite lock track, that's why they make an adaptor. You could probably buy pieces from Traxstech to make your own adaptors. They are usually pretty flexible.
  14. I will take these off your hands if they haven't sold. PM me shipping cost to 60177. Thanks
  15. I was just informed by Gil Travis (Semperfi Fishing on THT) that Lowrance has a serious software issue with the P75 and P95 transducers paired with HDS units and this is why I can't find them available with Lowrance connectors anymore. Guess I'm happy I never pulled the trigger on one...
  16. I just buy straight ginger root from the produce department. Slice off a sliver and chew on it. Just the juice will actually cure seasickness for me. Even after the onset of seasickness it works and usually once I get sick the only cure is getting my feet on land (until I started using ginger root). You will be surprised how well it works and I never head out on the big lake anymore without some ginger root in my pocket. Ginger ale seems to help prevent the onset for me as well.
  17. If I had that aluminum mounting plate, I think I would still put a board of some sort on there to make it easier to adjust my transducer if necessary without drilling into aluminum every time. Or even change to a different transducer in the future, which I have done a couple times with the Lund and screwing into the board was a breeze.
  18. Actually, just checked the box and the 655 should work with aluminum just fine. I'm pretty sure it's the same stuff stern saver uses. The 8 in the 655-8 means 8 ounces.
  19. Can't remember the number, but I saw it at west marine right next to the 655-8. It said for aluminum on the box.
  20. Yes, every boat is a different situation, in fact my Lund was done the same way yours is done except I used Mahogany boards for my transom savers. They have held up for over 20 years with just removing the mounting screws every few years and resealing and tightening them.
  21. Check this out...http://www.smithmountainstriperclub.com/the-boathouse/making-a-transducer-mounting-plate This is what I am doing. I made a large transom saver out of starboard material I had laying around and plan on a permanent installation using G-flex 655. The shape I made mine probably won't work on a different boat since I matched my deadrise and if I want to change ducers, or just remove one, there will be no patching holes. The transom saver stays with the boat... I am also using 2 mounting screws for mine just to hold it tight until the thickened epoxy dries. I oversized my 2 screw holes and filled with thickened epoxy as well, then redrilled for the screws. I have read that caulk and adhesives don't stick well to the plastic transom savers and I will be flame treating mine before installing it.
  22. Yes, I have read a lot of good info on there as well as other sites like BBC. There is one guy who had issues with screen pausing on his HDS Gen 3 using a P75 in hull, but most guys say it is a great transducer. I already have a P66 transom mounted with speed and temp so I thought having the shoot through would be a nice addition for chirp with my Gen 3 units. Thanks again for chiming in to help!
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