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Tyee II

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  • Location
    South Elgin, IL
  • Home Port
    Northpoint

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  1. I fished the Pass the Passion tournament this past weekend that this fish was caught in. I talked to Joe, the guy that brought the fish in the boat and he said he was gonna try to find the former owner of the ring. It sure didn't take long... Grey Lion II, the boat that caught the fish, had engine problems on day 2 after taking that ring on board. Kinda like having a bunch of bananas on board, I think.
  2. Tyee II

    No wake

    Thank you for posting this. I remember reading this report about how it will take over 30 years to rebound, and watching Lake Michigan rebound over 1 winter the very next winter. What more proof do we need that they are feeding us BS, and why must they always hold themselves above Mother Nature?
  3. Use the cannon retrievers. Never an issue with them. How old is your cable? Maybe it's just time for new cable?
  4. I'm sorry, I didn't mention mine are on HDS units, but Humminbird units should be able to do the same. I can tell you that as long as you keep the frequencies far enough apart you shouldn't have a problem. I run my cannon transducer, which is just a bit higher frequency than I run my 66 at, so three ducers working at the same time.
  5. I am running a TM150 and a P66 at the same time with no issues. There is minor interference on my dash unit with the TM150, but barely noticable. I have the p66 connected to my unit in the back of the boat set on the low frequency so I can see my rigger weights, and the TM150 is connected to the dash unit running on medium chirp most of the time. If I want to use one of the ducers on all units, I just turn on network sonar on the unit that has that ducer connected to it, which I had to do last year when my 150 popped up at speed and started giving eratic readings.
  6. You should bolt your stuff on, not weld, IMO. If something nreaks it will be easily removable.
  7. I love having my locator back there, and also my speed-n-temp display. I used a modified RAM Humminbird mount for my S-n-T because they didn't make an exact mount. It's easy to drill and tap holes or just drill and use locknuts if you can't find a mount that has your exact bolt pattern. You can even cut to fit with regular woodworking tools. I mounted mine right to the rigger I run the probe on with the micro RAM mount and it works great. I think the fishhawk has bluetooth capability, so you may only have to run power to the display or maybe even use an old phone or tablet. Also, I bought a used 5" HDS 2 for 150 bucks and networked it with my existing HDS 3 units. I can get all the info I do on my other units, share waypoints, even steer my boat right where I'm doing the rigging. I've had my boats rigged this way for so long I feel naked on a boat that isn't
  8. No, they don't clip the back on the line. Supposedly it runs fine without doing that. There are videos out there, one I saw was by No Fish Nick
  9. I'm a little leary as to why you are parting with this. Is there something wrong with it or are you just going bigger?
  10. There is another technique guys use called S-Biner Dipseys. Just make a loop in you wire or braid and clip a small S-Biner clip to it.
  11. The WaterWolf is an inline camera that you can clip onto your fishing line. It's really the way to go if you just want to watch fish strikes. The GoPro on a rigger is better for watching more than one line or filming structure, but when a fish strikes sometimes it's just a silver blur and they're gone. It's actually more fun watching the fish that swing and miss as they usually stay in the field of view and try again.
  12. I use mine with a similar torpedo housing down past 100' on Lake Michigan. Not sure if you have enough light to go that deep on Lake O. I also have extra torpedo housings if anyones interested. My avatar is a screen capture of a King that was checking out my camera.
  13. That is a standard nipple. Looks like black pipe to me and definitely not something you want to mount your mast with. It will rust out quickly, and the threads aren't very strong even when new. I think the previous owner just put that in there as an idea, but your mast looks like it will accept a pipe size which is bigger in diameter than that 3/4" nipple, and I would bet the original mount had an aluminum post that inserted into the female end of your mast. If you can't locate an original mount, you should consider finding a metal fabricator and have him make a simple flange with an aluminum post welded to it that will fit fairly snuggly into the base of your mast. It should be fairly inexpensive for them to do and they may have an even better solution for you. When you mount the flange, make sure to use a good backer plate as well.
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