Nameless Fish

what kind of speeds/rpms were you seeing when it was running right? Did it just randomly start going slower one day or has it progressively been getting slower?

fish hawk reads speed off a paddle wheel... it will almost never be right unless you're in flat calm conditions. GPS is measuring speed over ground where a paddle wheel is measuring speed through water. Technically they are two different things. With any kind of waves/currents a paddlewheel will always read different than GPS. If you have GPS I would use that for speed and ignore what the fishhawk says, for this purpose. Were you only getting 22mph before you changed props? Did you put on a different pitch prop? What does the factory equip that boat with for a prop? Sounds like maybe someone changed props at some point to an incorrect size/pitch and then it became the new "factory" prop (aka you didn't know someone before you changed it and you assumed it was "factory"). I would find out what size/pitch prop came with the boat right off the factory floor and make sure that is what you're using. Props are expensive and if a previous owner damaged the factory one he may have just put on whatever he had available at the time and just left it that way and sold the boat. If you're the original owner and never touched the prop before disregard all of this lol.

For under $300 you can get yourself a brand new Humminbird Helix 5 CHIRP GPS combo. That unit will do everything you need it to catch fish. Or you can look used or ebay and maybe find a deal on something larger or with more options depending on what you're looking for.

What brand net is it? Most companies sell extensions or longer handles for their nets. I know Beckman, Ranger and Frabil all do this. If you're looking just material to do it yourself checkout McMaster-Carr, they carry just everything you can think of. Looks like they have aluminum hex tube up to 1.5".... https://www.mcmaster.com/hexagonal-tubing

Don't know that but it's easy to figure out. Assuming you're gonna do two identical reels with wire (since most ppl do them in pairs)… tape wire to your spool, reel on all 1000ft of wire, attach mono and reel until spool looks full, measure out 100ft, walk out those 100ft adding/removing mono until reel says 100 when you're at the 100ft mark. Zero out counter on 2nd reel, reel all the mono off 1st reel onto 2nd reel, note the number on the counter when mono ends ('X'), reel everything onto the 2nd reel. Now reel that 'X' amount of mono onto the first reel, attach wire and reel all of it onto first reel. Now you have 2 tuned reels with the right amount of backing. just a guess but you're prolly gonna need in the ballpark of 600+ft of 30lb mono, since a shimano 700 is larger than an okuma 30.

For browns I run the same setups I use for walleye... 12lb big game mono to an 8lb flouro leader. Never had a problem with browns and even landed a couple low teens kings with these setups. Like others have said, set your drags right and don't horse them in and you will be fine.

Well I don't know how much tape you put on your spool or if bloodrun wire is different than the AFW camo wire but I ended up needing almost 100yds of 20lb backing to get my counters to be right. I literally just spooled these reels 2 days ago, first reel I put the whole 1000ft of wire on. Measured out 100ft in my yard and walked it and the line counter did not read 100. So I added backing on top until it was right and then reeled it onto my 2nd reel. I don't remember the exact number I used for backing but it was very close to 100yds.

I can tell you for certain that an Okuma Coldwater 30 with 1000' of wire needs backing or the counter will be off. Looks like the Saltist 30 has less line capacity that an Okuma 30. It may end up not needing any backing but your best option is to do what Yankee said and find out for sure. I don't like having braid tied directly to the spool, so if you do end up needing backing I would use some mono instead of braid imo.

Really looking for the LS high speed level wind version But I would consider a 55L as well.

Bump....

An Okuma 30 size is pretty close to the Daiwa 47 size (30 size is slightly larger). For a weekend fisherman, you would be fine with Okuma Convector reels or even the Daiwa Accudepth series. Personally I'd recommend the Okuma convector. The Okuma Coldwater is the next step up from a convector and are really great reels. I have 8 of them in the 30 and 45 size for salmon and 6 convectors I use for walleye/trout. Never had issues with any of them, just depends on how much you want to spend.

I'm looking for 4-6 of the red Offshore OR 16 clips, if anyone had some laying around they want to sell PM me.

The above chart is spot on for a super safe setup. Personally i think 650' of 65lb braid is a bit over the top safe but if you are comfortable with only 300' of 30lb braid backing you can squeeze a full 10 colors on a 30 size. I had a coldwater 30 with 10 colors on it, after coming very close to getting spooled on it last year I will be changing it to an 8 color this year.

I use regular 8ft M rods for all my LC and copper. Run them on planers without issue as well.

Charter has different definitions other than someone who charges money to take people fishing. Very possible he could be a charter pilot, have attended/works at a charter school, among other things. I also didn't see anywhere he "bills himself" as a fishing charter captain/mate. Maybe he's an ex-tuna charter, doubt they spend much time trolling spoons in 10fow for tuna. It's just his handle here, it might not have anything to do with himself as a person. Could just be a new guy asking a simple question.

I used super glue on mine, worked perfectly fine for me.

The whole idea is because the boat I'm looking at has an autopilot system on the main motor which I'm trying to utilize with the kicker. I suppose removing the swim platform is always an option too...

Has anyone ever modified an EZ steer rod to work around their swim platform? Boat I'm looking at has an I/O with a 3/4 length swim platform off the transom. I'm trying to figure out which kicker mount and tie-bar setup I will need to make this work? I'm thinking I would almost need a "Z" shape bent into the rod to clear the swim platform and allow the kicker to be raised and lowered via an adjustable mount. Is there enough length on these rods to allow for some drastic bends? Is there a better way to go about this? Is attaching and detaching the rod during trolling an option? Seems like I would never be able to reach and attach to the main motor with the swim platform there.

At those speeds you are probably looking at closer to 4ft of depth per color. I use the 27# suffix performance leadcore with 30# KastKing braid backing. I picked up a 1000yd spool of the KastKing braid on ebay for $35, never had a problem with it.

This is a gps/sonar only unit, comes with everything needed to install... mount, knobs, transducer, power cord, screen cover, original box and manuals. I have a brand new RAM (2.25” ball) for this unit for an extra $90. $700 +shipping for the unit. SOLD

Brand new never installed 2.25" ball RAM Mount... the model # is RAM-D-202-25-C-202U. I can get pics if someone wants but a quick google will get you all the pics and info you want. $90 TYD