muskiedreams

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  1. Zach, Did you get the email I sent you and the PM I sent you on LOU about changes to tournament rules? I need to get it done soon and wanted your input on changes.
  2. That is because he said specifically Conesus and July 29th. So I wanted to find out how flexible he is or what is most important to him in a guided trip before mentioning guides.
  3. I don't think anyone guides for muskies on Conesus. Just not very productive there even though they have been stocking tiger musky there for quite a while. But it all depends on what you are looking for; musky, tiger musky, size, numbers, potential for success, first musky, learning a particular body of water, learning in general, etc. You will most likely never meet all those goals in one trip. Chautauqua Lake, Waneta Lake and Otisco Lake are probably your best choices to have a good chance of catching one. It might be tough to limit yourself to one date because many guides already have a lot of dates booked. St. Lawrence River if you want to catch a monster, but that may take many days, hours or even years to accomplish.
  4. I have an 18 ft boat too. I used a 15 ft 2x4 and some regular 2x4s and saw horse brackets to build a big saw horse that is about as tall as your frame. The front legs are shorter for the raised bow platform. I used 1 1/2 " x 12" stock for ribs and trimmed them with about a 45 degree angle and attached them with one drywall screw to the top edge of the top 2x4. I trimmed each set (R&L) at the bottom also with an angle and so they sat right on the edge of the gunwale and numbered them 1R, 1L and so on. I tied the tarp mostly to the trailer and some places on the transom using nylon rope about 3/16 thick. I used old folded up towels on the corners of the 2x4 and windshield. Spraying silicone waterproofing helps to make the snow slide off the tarp. I found out this year that the cheapest tarp is only good for one season. The material tore around the grommets a little so they are now weakened.
  5. That nut you are pointing to looks kind of small (smaller than the ones on the solenoid). The negative cable from the battery and the ring terminal on the end of it is probably the same size as the ones on the solenoid. The negative battery wire should be attached with a nut to a stud on the block or with a bolt on the block that is the right diameter for the ring terminal hole to fit.
  6. That might be the terminal. You should definitely have two thick cables that connect to the battery from the motor. One for positive which would be red or marked with red connectors or sleeves at the ends. That one usually goes to a big stud that has other wires that branch out to the three solenoids. There will be other smaller wires for other purposes branching off as well. The one for negative will be black and connect to a big stud that is on the engine block. You still have to make sure that those other two wires that you connected together are connected where they need to be and that the control assembly is properly assembled and operating properly. They could have something to do with getting spark or neutral sensing. There is, by law, a kill switch that has a lanyard for the driver to connect to themselves so the engine ignition will be disabled if the driver falls out. That switch must be connected and the lanyard properly installed on the switch. There might also be a switch in the control assembly that senses when the the gear shifter is in neutral and won't allow you to crank the engine if it is not. On most engine controls the key has to be pushed in to provide choke or prime when starting cold for extra gas. You also have to make sure on two stroke motors that you have 2 cycle oil in the oil reservoir.
  7. Wiring diagram will definitely help but most outboards have very similar starting systems. Sounds like you are saying that the starter is not cranking. It would very helpful to have a multi meter to measure voltage and to check continuity, especially ground continuity. Following wires and taking measurements at key locations should help narrow the problem down to the fault. Checking for clean and tight connections as you go. The skinny wires on the starter solenoid should have 12 volts across them when the key is turned. One wire should get 12 volts from the key switch when turned to the crank position. The other wire should be connected to ground. A continuity check (ohms) can be done to check for that. You need to disconnect the battery for all continuity checks. If there is no voltage across these wires when you turn the key, you need to find out why the key turn is not providing that power. There is probably a 12 volt wire inside the motor (most likely red) going to the wire harness connector (big red connector in top picture) for the controls. It is very possible that the connector has a poor connection. You can look at that (wiggle it and plug it in and out a few times) and check for 12 volts at both ends of the wire harness. Also, there may be an in line fuse holder on that line under the motor cover. If so, check that fuse. You would have to look at the wiring diagram or see where those two black wires go to to try and determine if they are for neutral lockout (to keep starter from energizing if motor is in gear) or driver safety lanyard which may only kill ignition (spark) or both. One could be for neutral lockout and the other might be for the safety lanyard. They should have different color codes (or maybe stripes) or different connectors if they are supposed to go to different places unless they can be switched without consequence. It may be important to have them connected to where they are supposed to be connected. There may also be a tilt switch in the motor that will kill one or both those functions if motor is tilted up too far. Make sure you have battery voltage on the thick power wire going to the solenoid. If you are getting voltage across the skinny solenoid wires when you turn the key and you have power at the thick power wire, the problem could only be the solenoid or the starter. If you have power coming to the thick power wire you should be able to get it to crank if you jump across the two big solenoid terminals. There should be substantial sparks when you do this so be careful there are no gas fumes. If you have power at the solenoid and jumping these terminals does nothing, there is a problem with the starter. These are just some basics. Sometimes they do some crazy things with the wiring and that is where wiring diagrams come in handy if none of these things turn up anything.
  8. Mine is a 1990 Grumman and it has a layer of foam in the bottom. the foam looked ok when I replaced the floor about 10 yrs ago. There is space between the top of the foam layer and the bottom of the foam. There is additional flotation in the form of 2x8 styrafoam two layers thick under the gunwales from the transom to the consoles.
  9. There are a lot of good and helpful anglers here on LOU and in Chapter 69. The general atmosphere is to help each other become better angles and to support and educate the public and anglers of all types about the unique vulnerabilities of musky populations and do our best to help insure the health of the fisheries for years to come. A big part of that is helping those who are new to musky fishing become prepared with the right knowledge and equipment to be effective at catch and release. Also, to bring the message to all anglers about being as careful as possible about handling muskies during an incidental catch. Therefore no question is a stupid question and in this forum, there exists many of the answers to your questions. Of course some answers are not known. After all it is fishing!! Sometime when you think you know, you find out "not always".
  10. Hello BlackBeard1, Welcome to LOU. Good to hear that you are interested in NY Muskies Inc. Chapter 69. Have you already done some musky fishing or are you just becoming interested? Do you know solgrande here on LOU? He is one of our founding members and lives out your way. Many of our members are on this forum. There is a lot of good content under the Musky, Tiger Musky & Pike section. Let me know if you have any questions about the chapter.
  11. Coated nets help to minimize slime removal and damage to fish. They do help somewhat to reduce tangling of hooks in the net but hooks will still penetrate the net cord and the barb will impede removal. However the netting is heavier. This makes it a little heavier to handle but since it is stiffer, it reduces how much hooks will tangle in the net. Still, sometimes it is easier to cut then replace the hooks.
  12. If you go with wood, you shouldn't use pressure treated because the chemicals used to treat the wood is corrosive to metals. Use a high grade exterior plywood because the glue used between the layers will not delaminate if it gets wet. I had mine done by Clint at Samson Marine (when it was the Watercraft Clinic) in Red Creek, NY. He used resin to seal it and to seal between the pieces of plywood. When I did my floor, I also used resin. The only thing is, the resin I used on the floor must have dried kind of brittle because some areas of the floor that flexed due to poor support got soft and I believe it is because the resin cracked, allowing moisture to seep in. I don't know if some resin stays more flexible to keep that from happening. Also, you need to seal every hole all the way through to keep moisture from entering there. My floor originally had aluminum rivet fasteners, so that is what I used. I pumped sealer into the holes ahead of the rivets.
  13. Keep in mind that the water was not drained out after you pulled it out, it could freeze if it was outside in the winter without draining (tilted up). But it doesn't make a lot of sense that the carburetors would go bad from sitting 3 days, and cause the motor to not run. Another opinion might be in order. Especially if you had drained the water out of the motor.
  14. The link for the senator's email doesn't work. Skinny dipping might be ok if they don't have teeth.
  15. Ask the dealer tech how he came to the conclusion that the block is cracked. And maybe you should get a second opinion. But don't tell them what diagnosis you were given by the first tech. Do a little research on the dealer. But if you let it sit for a long time with old gas in it, that could cause problems with the carbs. And if you let water freeze in it, the block could be cracked. In pretty much most outboards, the water will drain out of the block when you tilt it down to a vertical position. If you tilted it up after using it and did not tilt it down to drain the water when you pulled it out of the water, water could freeze and crack the block if it was in below freezing conditions afterward.