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FishingFool34

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Everything posted by FishingFool34

  1. Rubber coated net, minimal handling of the fish, back in the water ASAP and I'll go as far as towing the fish along side the boat for a minute or two to let it recover. I use the plastic clamping fish grips tied to a rope to tow them. I've had pretty good luck releasing that way. I release the majority of my fish as well.
  2. I have always just eye-balled it as far as distances go. One thing I usually do is have my deeper running lures on the inside board and shallower ones on the outside board. In theory your shallower outside lure should be able to pass over top of your deeper inside lure without snagging that line. Obviously with a fish on thats not always the case, or if you're running similar baits. In that case I will reel the inside board in closer to the boat and have whoever is on the rod for the outside board keep the rod high and reel in slowly to let the fish and board get more behind the boat before bringing it in.
  3. I agree 100% with this, which is why I paired my 93 with an airmar B60 thru-hull for 2D sonar and a Garmin GT54 transom mount for the side/down scan.
  4. Garmin 93sv has pre-loaded Lake-vu maps on it. I have one and the Lake O map is pretty good imo.
  5. Same here, something about a plastic drag washer and some concave washer orientation (There's a write up on it, on this site someplace). Once those issues were taken care of I haven't had any problems since. You would be fine with convectors as well. I run convectors on all of my Brown Trout setups without issue.
  6. Looking at the DSP ad, I don't think that is a copper setup fyi. My guess is that is a wire dipsey diver setup like the ones I linked above. I have never seen a copper setup with a twili tip (that's usually something reserved for wire dipsey diver setups), also they don't say how much "copper wire" is on the reel which is kind of an important thing to know. Checkout the clearh2otackle store on ebay or email them and they will pre-rig whatever you're looking for. https://www.ebay.com/sch/clearh2otackle/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Not hard to put your own setup together either, use the chart below to figure out the reel size and amount of backing you will need for the setup you're looking to make.
  7. I'm sure that would work fine, but personally I won't buy anything from DSP. I don't agree with their positions on a few things firearms related and therefore won't do business with them. If you want pre-rigged stuff checkout clearh2otackle on ebay. They sell a lot of pre-rigged gear and will custom spool any reel you buy from them as well. You could get the same prerigged combo that Dicks is selling for much cheaper too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184982323137?hash=item2b11ce3fc1:g:eOcAAOSwEtZg0jEc
  8. Like said above, wire to snap swivel directly to diver, then leader of your chosen length after diver to the lure. Keep in mind if your leader length after the diver is more than 6ft or so (depending on the size of your boat), you will likely have to hand line the fish in. There are ways around this but they require different rigging (ie. S-clip, slide divers, etc)
  9. I wouldn't mess with it at all, a 2021 with less than 20hrs should be running perfectly. I would be headed right back to where you bought it for a warranty claim. Don't risk messing with something that could end up getting your warranty voided!
  10. Is there a fuel/water separator in there someplace? I would want to run my kicker fuel line out of the filter rather than directly out of the tank. You can get a filter housing with a single in, dual outlet and not even have to use a 'T'. If you don't have one, they are pretty cheap (~$100) and good insurance against potentially having issues out on the water.
  11. I sent one to you yesterday as well? Send me a PM with your price on 2 of them shipped to 13440. Thanks
  12. I’d be interested in 2 of the rod holder, if you will split them up.
  13. I'm not sure if it will continue to sink with 50lb braid backing, I have heard that is the case when using the 19 strand torpedo wire as backing though. But I wouldn't want to try and attach wire to an inline board so I have never personally tried that method. If I wanted to go deeper I would have 400/450/500ft setups but personally I don't run anything longer than 300ft. I do alot of C&R and have found most fish won't survive after a fight on anything longer than 300 copper/WS. Not to mention it gets less and less enjoyable for the person reeling it in. That's just my opinion though.
  14. I never saw the need for counters on a leadcore/copper/WS reel, I always let out all the weighted line that's on the reel. The line is so thick you will never get an accurate number anyway. If I want to run a shallower setup, I use a 200 steel instead of a 300 or a 8 color instead of a 10. I run inline planer boards so I need to let all of the weighted line out so I can attach the boards to the braid backing.
  15. I run my 300 WS on a Convector 55LS... no complaints.
  16. You can go back and edit your original post here and add/subtract any information you want. Classifieds are just a small part of this site, there is a ton of good information here and a lot of very experienced fisherman as well. Everyone from the occasional 1-2x a year guys, to weekend warriors, to active charter captains and tournament guys. There likely isn't a question you could ask that someone here wouldn't be able to answer or at the very least point you in the right direction.
  17. You didn't misunderstand this site, you just started off on the wrong foot is all. If you can get more pictures, its always good to say that. What are the reels spooled with for line? If they happen to be full of copper line or braid that could help justify a higher than normal asking price. What length/power are the rods? What condition are the reels in cosmetically (usually a simple 1-10 scale is what ppl use). When you're paying big bucks for reels it will help if they are in good condition cosmetically as it shows you take good care of your gear. Also payment type (cash, check, venmo, paypal) and will you ship (is that cost included in your asking price?) or local pick up (if so where are you located or willing to meet)? It's easier to just post all that info in your ad because 99% of interested buyers are going to want to know all of the things I mentioned. It's unfortunate that ppl are initially skeptical and think potential scam, but it happens... alot and that's just the world we live in these days.
  18. I don't think anyone was talking **** to you. There's alot of scams out there and many of us have been here long enough to spot the warning signs of a potential scam as we have seen our fair share on this forum. A new account whose first post is a for sale ad asking premium prices with little information throws up some red flags. You can ask whatever prices you want that's fine, but understand people will be skeptical because of the issues I mentioned. You could have gone about things differently if you wanted to be part of the community (ie. introduce yourself, give more details on your items, shipping/pickup, etc). Goodluck with your sale.
  19. 1 picture, missing item information, new account, asking price is same as new cost... there's a few red flags there. That's why you're getting flak from ppl just fyi.
  20. Yeah, I wasn't interested in testing out different rubber band sizes to figure out what would hold up and not break due to wind, waves, etc. It would have been nice to have a WS setup that could have potentially covered multiple different depths, but instead I opted to just go the route of dedicated setups with braid backing. I also run a Sam's Pro releases on the front of my inline boards now and there's no way, even with rubbers to attach to that release and have it function properly.
  21. I asked this question to the guys at torpedo directly a few years ago and this was the response I got. I wasn't comfortable with the rubber band idea, so I never actually tried it. I just run braid backing on my WS setups and attach the boards to the braid.
  22. Unless the previous owner upgraded the steering, cable sounds right for a 2011 with an outboard. Quick look under the dash will confirm it. You would likely already know if it was hydraulic steering, its a decently expensive upgrade and would likely be a selling point of the boat the previous owner would have almost certainly mentioned.
  23. You just figured it out right there... you have full cable steering.
  24. Garmin makes an AP unit just for your kicker motor. Its called the reactor 40, I have the previous version called TR-1 and have no complaints. It was a very simple install, I did it myself in 2-3hrs. Works great and was relatively cheap (~$1200). The new reactor 40 is a full electric setup where the older TR-1 was hydraulic. The 40 can be connected to a GPS unit or be purchased with a standalone headunit.
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