FishingFool34

I've had good luck running Ziggy boards, they got a couple different sizes. I run the copper boards and use them for everything up to 300 with no problems. I don't own anything over 300 but they say the "big sexy" boards will pull 600 copper.

Airbnb is usually my go to, to find places to stay. Looks like there is a good number of places near Sodus list on airbnb. Just find one that looks good to you. We do a couple trips a year while staying at Airbnb places, it has always worked out well.

We don't ever yell at the fish for not biting... we yell at our lines for not catching fish. Thrown pennies to the "fish gods" plenty of times but may have to up it to quarters if that's the going rate now...

Garmin TR-1 Gold (older discontinued version) and Garmin Reactor 40 Kicker AP. Depends on the year/make of your kicker, the new Reactor 40 unit has limited compatibility when compared to the older TR-1 system. My kicker wasn't compatible with the Reactor 40 so I went with the TR1 system earlier this year and it works very well. Installation was very easy, did it myself in maybe 3hrs.

I can't comment on the adj brackets as I never looked into them my kicker came pre-rigged on a bracket. The throttle control options are iTroll, Trollmaster, ControllKing… I would prolly rank them in the that order, but it is also how they rank from most to least expensive. It really comes down to how many bells/whistles you want to have as any of the 3 will control your speed. You will for sure want the ez steer setup, locking kicker straight and trying to use your main as a rudder will not perform nearly as well as you think.

I run meat rigs at the same speed I run everything else for salmon, 2.3-2.8.

I think most people back their LC setups with braid, but it depends on how many colors you're running. 12lb mono backing is prolly fine for shorter brown trout LC setups (1-3 colors) but anything you plan to target salmon with I use 30lb or 50lb braid as backing. I don't use the alberto knot but I do my tie my knots the same way by removing lead and tying to the sheath.

Looks like this should work... https://www.amazon.com/Propeller-Johnson-Evinrude-Outboard-114848/dp/B013QRZCOC

Backing is necessary! 100yds of 25lb mono then your 1000ft of wire will fill a 30 size Okuma reel. Check the spooling chart at the top of this section of the forum.

They are too close together depth-wise or you're trying to run a deeper copper over top of a shallower dipsey. Your deepest setups should be closest to the boat with the shallowest the furthest away. Set your dipseys deeper or run shorter coppers. Or there is something wrong with your dipseys and they aren't diving to where you think they are (loose/broken ring, loose weight?).

When I initially start I do boards then dipsey then riggers, always seemed to work well. But if I get a fish on a board I've never had issues getting the boards out over my dipsey lines. I use inline boards as well, when deploying them I will free line them way down the center before I engage the drag and swing them over to their respective sides. Only thing I can think of for the OP issue is if the dipsey and copper are both running at a similar depth you could have issues while deploying. My board lines are usually my highest lines so I don't have issues going over deeper setups like dipseys.

Rain, T-storms, scattered fish and deep temps.