FishingFool34

Sounds like it needs to be recalibrated... have you tried doing it yourself? There are some pretty good walkthrough videos on how to calibrate them on YouTube.

Depends on if you're fine with aluminum or want SS. The aluminum 4 blade 16p Michigan Wheel prop I just bought with hub kit was $145 shipped.

going from a 3 blade to a 4 blade is roughly the equivalent of dropping 1" of pitch. With such a wide range of max rpms and the fact you're over revving even with that wide of a range. I'd would guess you could likely go to a 4 blade and still go up an inch or two in pitch. I just put a 16p 4 blade on my boat so I know there are 16p 4 blades available (mine was a 15x16p). Goodluck

I went with a 26"x34" with the 4-7ft handle and coated net and it's perfect size imo. I got mine from Fishusa… says they are backordered right now though. Likely a Covid related issue, I doubt a fishing net company was considered essential so they likely have not been in production for the past few months. If you're not in a hurry Fishusa is usually pretty good about notifying you when something is back in stock if you sign up for their backorder alert.

There used to be Water Wolf cameras but I'm pretty sure they went out of business. Those had no cable but recorded video internally and you could watch it later. Now there is the Go Fish Camera system, they supposedly can be trolled. Again I believe this records and then you can transfer and view on your phone after. The ice fishing systems with cables you're talking about are for live real-time viewing. If that's what you're looking for I don't believe there is anything out that can do that wirelessly underwater.

I have a pair of plastic fish grips that I use for releasing fish. I tie the grips to a piece of rope and drag the fish along side of the side of the boat. I only do this if it was an extended fight or I had trouble getting the hooks out. 1-2 mins along the side of the boat is usually enough to bring most of them back. Normally if everything went well, I use the "torpedo" technique as we call it and toss them back in head first. I also avoid taking pics or holding them vertically by the gills if we are going to release them.

You're already at one of the best places to find recent fishing reports, second to only a buddy who was just out yesterday. There are reports out of just about every port on the south shore posted frequently on LOU. At minimum it will give you an idea of where to start. Read the reports, think about what the winds did between that report and when you go out and adjust accordingly. Cover as much of the water column as you can until you figure out where they are biting. For me knowing temp is important but I think the biggest advantage of the fishawk is down speed. My first 2 years I fished without one and just used GPS speed. Now that I have a fishawk I see how crazy different downspeed vs GPS speed can be and why I had days I only caught lakers and other days why I got skunked.

I just did this exact thing on Memorial Day Weekend except we went to Olcott. There are a couple places in Olcott you can rent that come with a slip included in the rental (which is what we did). I found the place through Airbnb and I think we paid $150/night for the place we stayed in. Transient docks at the Newfane Marina in Olcott were $1.25/ft/night so figure $30 of that $150/night is for your dock and you're down to $120 for a cottage/house. You can barely get a hotel room for that and we had an entire house basically in the marina with our boat parked 50ft away. There are a lot more rentals in Olcott compared to Wilson and it's only a 10-15 min boat ride to Wilson. Fishing was off the charts while we were there too, can't wait to go back next year!

Shimano TDR has a 7'0 MH model available on fishusa, I use the AFW camo wire and haven't had any issues with it.

you could try adding a snubber to help absorb some of the impact while dropping the ball. Losing autostop means that the rigger will reel the ball all the way to the boom and keep reeling until you manually stop it. You're also gonna have to deal with fleas come summertime and they love to stick to braided line. Personally I wouldn't switch my riggers to braid because of the reasons mentioned above, but I have never had the issues you're describing. Goodluck

https://www.cmetrolling.com/product-page/uv-mop

2" of pitch is about 300rpms, so try a 15x19", might get you pretty close to what you're looking for.

03 Yamaha F9.9ELRB, Had issues with it not starting and getting gas in the oil at the end of last year. Turns out that issue was the fuel pump, replaced that this year and it would start and run well, but it was a PITA to get started. So I pulled the carb, cleaned it and now it starts up super easy. Well now my issue comes when I go to shut it down, if I drop it into neutral after running for any length of time, it slowly revs up while in neutral. It revs up to the point I have to shut it down and restart it because I'm afraid to shift it back into gear at such high rpms and risk braking something. Sometimes I can get it to drop back to normal idle rpms if manually rev it up while in neutral. I also notice a good amount fuel in the water after it's shutdown. Any suggestions

We were out today, fished 75-100 in the am went 3/4 all lakers. Ran out to 400 in the afternoon ended up 4/5 out there 1 nice king a steelie and 2 lakers. The one we lost in the afternoon was a for sure king.

Let me be the first to say it... east is least, west is best as far as wind and fishing goes. That is pretty much a consensus lake wide. I’m sure someone can elaborate on reasoning as I’m not 100% sure of the science behind it. This is a perfect time for this topic to come up though. After strong east winds the past few days going into very fishable conditions for a holiday weekend.

If you plan on fishing solo often I would look into slide divers instead of dipsey divers. The slide diver will slide right down to the flasher and make things much easier to net when you don't have to deal with the added leader length off the dipsey.

If you have full hydraulic steering the steering wheel is basically the pump (pump is mounted behind the helm and operated by you turning the wheel). You're thinking of power assist steering where its cable back to a pump run by the engine. No engine on, no power steering. Not the case with full hydraulic steering.

That's a tough ask, if you can't find a used one try Northwoodsoutlet. They have the best price you will find on a new X4D system, odds are same goes for just the probe. https://northwoodsoutlet.com/product/fish-hawk-x4d-probe/

I rig mine exactly like in this video. Every once and awhile I will get one that doesn't trip but for the most part it works as advertised. The only thing I do different is I double wrap the line in the rear clip, little extra security to not lose the board.

So I’m considering getting TR-1 system. The new garmin reactor kicker AP isn’t compatible with my kicker so that’s out of the question. I know the TR-1 is discontinued but that has lead to some really good pricing on it. Core pack is $1200, it was over $1800 this time last year. I do have some questions for anyone that has experience with it. I have an ez steer setup now and was curious if I would have to remove the bar to run this? Does the system had enough power to move the kicker and the io if they are connected? I know a Lot of ppl use an AP system on their main engine and ez steer to the kicker that does the pushing. Curious if I could do the reverse, al I’d like to be able to turn the AP off and hand steer with the wheel if I wanted to. Which wouldn’t be possible unless I could leave the ez steer connected.