FishingFool34

I installed a B60 this past spring and bought the correct crows foot wrench needed to install it. If someone ends up going the B60 route and needs the wrench shoot me a PM and I'll mail it to you to use.

It's already starting.... fish are piled up in 120-150 fow between Sandy Pond and Salmon River as of yesterday. Managed to find a few that wanted to bite but most were not interested in anything we had.

There's a good number of deep water cases made for go-pro cameras that will handle anything the great lakes can offer for depth. I've seen them used on several salt water fishing shows, where guys are deep dropping in 1000ft+. They are not cheap though, I linked one of the less expensive ones that's rated for 500'+. Never used one personally, but what you want is easily achievable if you have the money to spend. https://www.golemgear.com/p-814-gopro-housing-for-gopro-hero-9-and-gopro-hero-10-rated-to-500ft.aspx

I crank a spinning reel left handed, buy specifically LH baitcasting reels (never understood the whole casting/switching hands things?) but with trolling reels I'm much more comfortable cranking with my RH. I think it's due to the fact you usually have a lot more cranking to do on these bigger reels than you ever would on a casting reel. Long lining reels aren't niche per say, but freshwater, level-wind, hi-speed, large spool reels are imo (and LH even more so). Other than great lakes fisherman, what fresh water fishing is going to require a reel that can hold 400yds of 30lb line? There's only a few companies that even make freshwater trolling reels. What you're looking for is prolly much more available in non-level wind, lever drag saltwater reel I'd bet.

Can’t seem to figure out what’s going on with my kicker. It was running fine all season and then developed a “stumble” one day and I can’t figure it out. I’ve replaced spark plugs, fuel filter, cleaned the carb and tried fresh fuel connected to a separate tank. Still runs like the video below shows. It will never actually stall out and shutoff but it stumbles in every rpm range. Seems to get slightly worse at higher RPMs… any ideas would be appreciated. FullSizeRender.MOV

You're already in a niche section of large spool, hi-speed, freshwater, trolling reels and then and even more niche spot of LH retrieve... I'd bet you're going to need to look into saltwater reels to find what you want.

There really isn't a way to wire the transducer wrong honestly, you can mount it wrong which will give you problems displaying correctly. But the plug is only going to fit into one spot on the back of the unit, If you give some more info on your problem we can probably get straightened out.

Maybe I'm over thinking it but "rear of the motor" could be slightly ambiguous depending on how you're looking at the motors. But there are options for connecting it from either side. You just need to measure to make sure you get a kit with the right size rod for the space in between the motors. EZ Steer or Panther Aux bracket http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/ezsteer product.pdf https://www.walmart.com/ip/Panther-Marine-55-2600-Auxiliary-Motor-Steering-Kit-Stainless-Steel/33707635

I have the older TR1 Gold system so I can't comment on the new Reactor system. The throttle control was available for the TR1 but it was optional and I already had the remote throttle setup on my kicker so I chose not to get the one from Garmin. I have read that the ones from aftermarket companies like iTroll, Trollmaster and Controllking were better options than what was offered by Garmin, for the TR1 system atleast.

You should look into a dedicated kicker auto-pilot unit like the Garmin Reactor 40. I have the older TR-1 Gold version on my kicker and it was a game changer for me. If you could see the movements the AP unit has to do to hold course in any kind of chop you wouldn't even consider a remote steering unit imo.