180ccf

Jason, I worked at this marina when I was in high school (I grew up off of Lowden Pt Rd). I worked for Red Grey in the early 80's, best job I ever had. With that said, I know this bay like the back of my hand. So, why would I need new instructions to navigate the new channel. Just follow the rules. Red / right return. Well, when launching my boat I was told keep right in both directions and the water was "sketchy". Thank god it was blowing hard and I was only going 10mph when I hit. But, when I got to the dock several people came up to look at my boat on the trailer and my lower unit and prop. They all had stories of night time and day time underwater accidents. Here is what I was told. The pipes for navigation were placed for the barge. The barge was in the east channel removing "Stuff". It placed the "stuff" in the west channel and never removed it (due to the high water and the barge was able to make more money on high water projects and never returned to finish the job it was paid to do). So, if you ever use the west channel it is full of old cement and railroad tracks and telephone pole stumps. This is what I was told, not what I can prove. Except I did hit there). There is no true USCG markings on anything. Just 12 (I think) white pipes. the outer pipes (east/west) were 6" or 8" in diameter (4 or 6 per side) and the middle pipes were aprox. 2" round. All white. So, what do you follow. I was going to take my outbound path back in but this day had 4+ footers and other boats in that channel. I took the westerly channel because it was full. That proved to be a BAD idea. What there should have been was two GIANT RED no-go signs attached the the outer markers indicating to all boaters that the west channel is closed for navigation and all vessels should use the east channel only. There should have been very good written instructions at the launch ramp on the use of the new channel. It should have also noted the hazards in the west channel if you were to stray over there. Just my .02 on that. Many people did 1000s of dollars in damage to their boats last summer. Several of them came and spoke with me while I was wiping my boat down.

I got instructions on the new channel last August. I left and went fishing (stayed right) I was told to stay right returning. I smacked my prop and lower unit. Folks saw it happen and came over to talk to me. Told me they watched a boat loose both props on a twin a week prior. They hit and several others. I hit solid cement or rocks. I still have to take my prop in to get fixed and figure out what to do with the skag. It looks like someone took a bite out of it.

I hate it if a fish dies and I can't remember the last one that did. I try not to take the big ones out of the water. If I do it is very quick, photo and release head first like a torpedo as deep as I can get it to go. If it comes back up and sometimes they do. I will back the boat to the fish, then gas the engine hard to create a whirlpool. That sucks the fish way down the water column to cold water, in heavy oxygenated water and always works for me. It may work for you as well of you are a catch and release angler.

RD9 is this boat in MI? I was just interested in what a used rig like this would sell for (justifying the repair cost) and found one with the same exact cracks. I hope it is the same one. If not, that is a build problem with that model. For the price they are asking for this one in MI that transom must be fixed correctly by the seller.

Nope, if fixed correctly the cracks should be fine (my guess is this boat was built before 800lb 4 strokes). I am not an expert in boat structure. I would take my boat to Great Lakes Marine in Sodus, NY. Even boats wrecked in FL are sent up to these guys (yes, FL with all the boat builders, sends boats to these guys). When they fix a boat, it is perfect and better than new. EDIT: I would also send them photos directly to Boston Whaler. They will tell you exactly what you should do.

I would have an independent shop have a good look at the Mercs. If they are 2010 or older they have the 4.8" gear case not the larger 5.44 case which was made (came out in 2011) because the larger boats like this Whaler would tear them up. There is also a lot going on in a supercharged, injected, fly-by-wire Verado. A few dollars upfront from a skilled Merc mechanic may save you thousands down the road. The transom will need to come apart for the repair to be done right. It should be brought to a competent shop for that work (one you approve of). Once completed it may be better than new. I am surprised it failed. Whalers are some of the toughest boats ever.

Sweet boat man, I have the same model just a bit newer. That looks to be in fantastic shape.

Oh, mine does that when I am saving my position to the flash card or have structure scan turned on (make sure your structure scan is turned off). No sure on yours I have an HDS-8 G2. It saves the black part to the card and you can go online and upload the data to a web site and it makes wicked detailed maps of our local lake bottom. Look for a setting called structure map.

touch and HOLD your finger on the any part of the menu bar for 1 second, then swipe to the right without lifting finger and it should work.

Low Baller, you the same guy who busted two Okuma's near Wilson, I think. Or are you, now another guy who has had his Okuma break. The guy I read last week had 2 break at the same spot on the rod. I really like Okuma stuff and had these rods in my hands at Dick's last week.

Same here, was going to launch out Braddocks this morning but could not find anyone to go. For the first time ever the boat is just sitting in the driveway ready to roll. Last summer was 23 launches. This year 0.

I have the HDS Gen2 (non-touch). With the sonar hub and that TM150 with CHIRP and the long probe side scanning one. I am not 100% sold on the Airmar my stock transducer gives me a really good picture. The Airmar looses the bottom a lot and the screen looks identical to the stock tiny transducer. It is very bubble sensitive as well.