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Smart Troll

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  1. Jollyroger,

     

    Not sure if you bought the Smart Troll kit from Redemption but we have made many changes and improvements since that particular kit was released.

     

    If you have any problem at all and you want to trade it for the newer version of Smart Troll I will make sure you get a good deal so you don't get hurt by giving it a try. Just PM me if you want to talk about it.

  2. The mount for your motor sets back quite a bit...but if you put the transducer near the scupper like you described then it should be ok. The probes are deep so the signals are coming to the boat in an upward direction so the signals should go under everything to get to the transducer.
  3. Tyee II That area to the right of the swim platform is a good spot. Actually, if there is a similar spot on the port side...where there is no swim platform then even better. The transducer just has to be a few inches under the waterline...just deep enough so that it stays underwater most of the time in waves. The futher to the outside edge of the boat...the better.
  4. Tyee II, Very few Smart Troll owners have reported having difficulty getting a signal from probes on both sides of the boat. You can put the Transducer above the trim tabs...it just has to be below the waterline enough so that it stays underwater most of the time in waves. The signal is coming from the Probes at an upward angle...when the signals hit the surface they do reflect back down so you may get a signal with the trim tabs down...but it is also possible that for best performance you may have to put the trim tab that is below the transducer down when trolling. If you want to email a picture of your transom I will gladly make a suggestion. Just use [email protected] my website domain...didn't want to spell it out because that is what bots look for to send spam.
  5. It is best to mount Smart Troll Transducer near the outside edge of the boat as much as possible and that is especially true with outboards (or an out-drive). 1) There is much less vibration at the outside edge of the boat than there is nearer the center of the transom. The Smart Troll system is very sensitive so that it can pick up the signals from the probes hundreds of feet away. Too much hull vibration can cause the transducer to ring and cause interferance. If there is a kicker then the transducer should definitely be mounted on the opposite side as the kicker. 2) The closer the transducer is to the outboard the farther back a probe on the opposite side of the boat will have to be to get a straight line of site to the Smart Troll Transducer. Imagine if the transducer was right up against the outboard then there is no good line of sight to the opposite side of the boat. The farther the transducer is from the motor the better the angle to get line of sight past the outboard. Please let me know if you have more questions and I am happy to answer...
  6. Gill-T That seems pretty likely correct for bait fish...they would be moving slower if swimming against the current. They sometimes probably swim slower than the current so they would be carried "down-stream" even though to the bait it might seem like they were swimming up stream. I would think their instinct would be to turn and dart downstream the moment they sense danger. In any case, bait fish would be going slower swimming upstream but your lure wouldn't be going slower upstream relative to the fish. It is going boat speed relative to the fish weather you are dragging it up stream or down stream. If something was going 2 MPH away from me I would rather run down hill with the wind at my back to catch it. Having said that...if you get close enough to the big guy he will chase it either way I think.
  7. Like skipper19 said...I also think that dragging your lure in the same direction the current is flowing is best (if possible). For one thing, if the fish are below the current (resting and waiting) then any food in the current will likely be coming from that direction. In addition to that, fish cannot think like us but they do have instincts. If I have to run up hill against the wind (against the current to the fish) to get something I want (food) then it better be pretty close to me to begin with or it will just take too much energy and effort to chase the food and there is higher risk that I won't catch it. If I can run downhill with the wind at my back (with the current to the fish) then maybe it can be a little further away and I still might go for it.
  8. pap, For $599 you get one Smart Troll Probe that has Depth/Temp/Speed. The Depth/Temp/Speed Probes are small enough so you can attach it directly to your line or you can use an Offshore OR16 clip (or equivalent) and tether it to a Downrigger cable a foot or so above the ball. Unfortunately, it will not work with iPad or iPhone but you can buy an android tablet with a 7" screen at this link for $49 https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Fire-7-Inch-Tablet-8GB/dp/B00TSUGXKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475578066&sr=8-1&keywords=kindle+HD+49 You can add up to 5 more Depth/Temp Probes for $250 each. You can get them at the time of the original purchase or you can get additional Probes next spring...or anytime in the future. The Depth/Temp Probes are literally the size of your index finger and they too can be attached directly to any of your lines or tethered to your Downrigger cable a foot or so above the ball. You can change the font size of the data in the settings menu of the Smart Troll app...so the larger the screen the larger you can make the font so you can see it from the back of the boat. You can also "hide" Probes that you do not have...so if you have only Smart Troll Probe you can go to the Smart Troll app's Settings Menu" and remove the Probes you do NOT have from the screen...that way the data for the one probe you do have can be set large enough to fill most of the screen. Please let me know if you have more questions...I am happy to answer them. Darrell
  9. Silver Fox, The Website is connected to PayPal. When you checkout from a purchase on the Website the transaction is handled by PayPal which will give you the option to use your PayPal account or PayPal will handle the transaction for any major Credit Card.
  10. pap, Thank you for your question. The Depth/Temp Probes are $250 each...and all Smart Troll kits are capable of running up to 6 different Probes on 6 different lines at the same time. You can also attach them to a Down Rigger cable if you prefer. Since you can use multiple Probes you can attach them to multiple down-riggers or a combination of some Probes on DR cables and some attached directly to your lines. The Smart Troll Depth/Temp/Speed Basic kit is currently on sale for the $599 price (its normal price is $799). Plus I am extending the Warranty Start Date to July, 2017 so with this deal you get a great price plus a long Warranty period. I need some cash flow to get plenty of stock ready for next season so if you buy early you get the savings. You can add Probes anytime and they cost $250 each; use the link below or click Depth/Temp Probes in the top left corner of the www.smarttroll.com Home Page . http://smarttroll.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7&zenid=9ee3b1f2d1a3b7abd1a5e1719ca9bf0b You can add Probes to the cart at the same time you purchase the Smart Troll Depth/Temp/Speed basic kit that is on SPECIAL or you can add more Smart Troll Probes anytime in the future. The kits are already capable of working with up to six different Probes so the only thing you need for that is to get more Probes. So for example, The normal price for the Smart Troll Depth/Temp/Speed Basic Plus kit (1 Depth/Temp/Speed Probe plus 1 Depth/Temp probe) is $1035. If you buy The Smart Troll Depth/Temp/Speed Basic Kit for $599 and add one Depth/Temp Probe for $250 then your final cost is $599+$250 = $849. You can add as many Depth/Temp Probes, to the kit that is on SPECIAL, as you want (up to 6 total) and you still get a great deal. Just add as many items as you want to the Cart before you check out and in effect that makes every Depth/Temp/Speed kit on SPECIAL. If you have more questions just let me know...I am happy to answer them. Darrell
  11. I need some cash flow to get ramp'd up for next season so I am having a Great End of Season Sale on Smart Troll Basic Depth/Temp/Speed systems through October 31, 2016 (while supplies last). Details on the website... http://smarttroll.com/
  12. Silver Fox, I am not sure that it is appropriate to post pricing here so I sent you a PM.
  13. I was on the boat with Rick Hajacki (Yankee Troller) last Saturday and we put the Moor Subtroll Probe and the Smart Troll Depth/Temp/Speed Probe a few inches apart attached to the Down-rigger cable. Then we put them about a foot underwater and compared the readings to Rick's Humminbird surface speed. The Subtroll was 0.8 to 1.0 MPH slower than the Humminbird. Here is a link to Rick's facebook post. https://www.facebook.com/SmartTroll/notifications/?section=activity_feed&subsection=mention&ref=notif&target_story=S%3A_I76184471193%3A10153689442231194
  14. Great Job! Rick...you guys are awesome...really looking forward to fishing on your boat in a few weeks.
  15. AnglingAddict, The data is sampled every 20 seconds. Below are some screen shots that represent what the recording will look like. Please note that it is military time to distinguish am from pm and the simulation was recorded at mid-night so it went from 23:50 to 00:00 The first attachment is the "Home Screen" and it shows changes of depth in the top section and corresponding changes in temperature in the bottom section. The second attachment shows labels that pop up if you touch anywhere on the screen. The third attachment shows that labels appear at every data point when you zoom in. You can zoom either by touching the screen for a second or by finger gestures. The fourth attachment is just zoomed in further. Looks like the attachments ordered themselves from right to left so...start with the one on the one on the far right.
  16. Pap, Just thought i would let you know the reason I don't make a dedicated "Smart Troll" display. The main reason is because I can't make a display that allows you to easily download any updates to the app and install any other app you want to use on it (such as fish finder display, GPS, navionics, etc) for $49 USD...such as the one at the link below. Smart Troll uses Bluetooth to transmit the depth/temp data so you do not need phone service at all. In fact, you could use an old android phone that has been disconnected from phone service and it will still work fine with Smart Troll. http://www.amazon.com/Fire-Display-Wi-Fi-GB-Special/dp/B00TSUGXKE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453094815&sr=8-2&keywords=fire+bluetooth In summary, you get to choose the size and cost of your display. One guy might want phone size so he can keep it in his pocket...the next guy might want TV size for his boats console....Smart Troll doesn't lock you in to a one size fits all display. Plus, anytime I upgrade the app you can download the latest for free. That way you don't get stuck with an earlier version of the app just because you bought before the other guy.
  17. Todd, Just thought I would chime to let you know that I put that information about two transducers because I could see the possibility when Smart Troll was first launched. However, to date there has NOT been any user or boat that has needed two transducers so it appears that in practical use it is not an issue. Just mount the transducer outboard (away from the motor) as much as possible and you still have line of sight to the Probes that are on the opposite side of the boat because they are down and behind the boat a hundred feet or so. Since the Probes can be attached directly to the line you are getting signals basically straight from the lure. You will be surprised how much small changes in down-speed affects the depth of the lure. o.5 MPH can change the depth by 20 feet or more. Even if you don't have a Probe with Speed...you can tell the speed changed because the depth of the lure will change. Of course, other things can make the depth change also such as a small fish that doesn't trip the release, if you pick up a weed or trash, if your diver release pops even if there is no fish on, etc... And the depth will also change during turns and in waves (because of the pulling back and forth on the rod tips). The point is if you have it set at 50 feet (or whatever) and the depth changes even though you didn't change anything it is up to you to figure out why but at least that change doesn't just go unnoticed for a couple of hours. If everything seems OK...then you can take whatever is action necessary to get back to your target depth or temperature. Or if you catch a fish during a turn with Smart Troll you can see how deep your gear was when the bite happened so you would then have a new "target depth".
  18. Big Water, Clearly I am "overly analytical" too and when I elaborated on some of the theory I certainly didn't mean to imply anything about your understanding of it all...after all I can see you are "Pro Member" Your original post about fish streaking up on the fish finder screen just brought to mind the theory that when fish appear to have streaked up from 20 feet or more they almost certainly traveled lots less than that through the water column because of the way the fish finder cone works. I appreciated your question because it gave the opportunity to think it all through again and being over analytical it is easy to get carried away with some of the posts. It was kind of fun to put it all down in writing...but I guess that is just the analytical nerd in me.
  19. lost a lure, One thing for sure that hasn't been well stated is that the fish finder screen is a history. By the time the fish arc is fully formed the fish is completely out of the transducer's cone (it started at one edge of the cone and the trailing edge of the arc is the fish exiting at the opposite edge of the cone). So, if the cone is 30 feet wide then the fish is already 15 feet behind the boat when the trailing edge of the arc is formed. That 1 inch (or so) wide arc would have been formed as the fish passed through 30 feet of the transducer's cone. The only pixel that is close to "live" is the one forming on the very edge of the fish finder screen. What is seen at the opposite side of the screen happened some time ago depending on the scroll rate of the screen. If it takes 30 seconds for something to scroll from one edge of the screen to the opposite side of the screen...then what you see on that opposite edge of the screen exited the transducer's cone 30 seconds ago.
  20. Big Water, The point I wanted to make is the fish arc is formed when the fish is not moving much relative to the boat but you can use that to sort of determine how deep the fish appears to be when at the outer edge of the cone compared to the center of the transducer's cone. If you use the example screen shot below you can see that can be 20 feet or so. For a specific setup it depends on how wide the cone is on your transducer and how deep the fish is (because the cone gets wider with depth). But suppose the fish is swimming along in the same direction as the boat but slightly slower than the boat. You will loose the arc shape and it will be elongated because the fish remains within the cone much longer if it is swimming with the boat. If the boat is going slightly faster than the fish is swimming then that elongated shape will angle up as the fish moves from the edge of the cone to the center of the cone and it will appear like the fish streaked up and then fell away even if the fish remained at the same depth the whole time. ** **
  21. Big Water, I have no doubt that fish will sometimes notice a presentation and swim up to look at it...but they might not always come from as far away as it looks on a fish finder because of how the cone area works. Please consider the attached illustration. If that fish stays at one depth and you drive the cone of the fish finder directly over the top of the fish it will look deeper when it first enters the cone than it looks at the center of the cone. That is why fish appear as arcs...they enter the edge of the cone farther from the transducer and thus look deeper. as they approach the center of the cone they look shallower and shallower. As the fish passes towards the opposite side of the cone getting farther from the transducer...it looks deeper and deeper again. If the center of the transducer's cone gets directly over the fish and it starts to swim along you would not see the trailing side of the arc because the fish is swimming along with the boat and staying in the same relative position under the transducer's cone...and the fish would have appeared to streak up even though in this example the actual depth of the fish did not change. If the fish is swimming along with the boat near the edge of the cone and then speeds up so it is directly under the center of the cone it will appear to have streaked up even if its depth doesn't change because it is farther from the transducer when at the edge of the cone area and closer to the transducer when directly under the transducer. The arc is most pronounced if the fish travels directly under the transducer but less pronounced if the fish is in the cone but off to the side...never directly under the transducer. The only time the fish is at the depth indicated on the fish finder is when it is directly under the transducer. All other times the fish will appear to be deeper than it actually is. The fish finder tells you the distance between the fish and the transducer. The animation and explanation below was copied from here...The right side of the animation is showing the arc forming as the transducer passes over a fish that remains at one depth. http://support.lowrance.com/system/selfservice.controller?CONFIGURATION=1001&PARTITION_ID=1&secureFlag=false&CMD=VIEW_ARTICLE&ARTICLE_ID=2967 Why Fish Arch The reason fish show as an arch is because of the relationship between the fish and the cone angle of the transducer as the boat passes over the fish. As the leading edge of the cone strikes the fish, a display pixel is turned on. As the boat passes over the fish, the distance to the fish decreases. This turns each pixel on at a shallower depth on the display. When the center of the cone is directly over the fish, the first half of the arch is formed. This is also the shortest distance to the fish. Since the fish is closer to the boat, the signal is stronger and the arch is thicker. As the boat moves away from the fish, the distance increases and the pixels appear at progressively deeper depths until the cone passes the fish. If the fish doesn't pass directly through the center of the cone, the arch won't be as well defined. Since the fish isn't in the cone very long, there aren't as many echoes to display, and the ones that do show are weaker. This is one of the reasons it's difficult to show fish arches in shallow water. The cone angle is too narrow for the signal to arch.
  22. Jim, The data is stored in the filed/document directory of the phone as a CSV file. So, you can navigate to that file and make a copy and import it to a table or database if you desire. I do NOT plan to make a version with Speed because it will drive the price up too high and it will make the Probe too bulky because of the required paddle wheel and housing to incorporate SPEED. The STR Probe is pretty close to the size of a man's pinky finger so it won't affect the depth much which makes it useful information for your gear even when the STR Probe is NOT on the line. a Probe with Speed, as mentioned above, would be much bulkier so the depth of the gear would be affected more. Therefore, the Depth/Speed relationship with the Probe on the line would not compare to the Depth/Speed relationship with no Probe. On the Smart Troll systems that have Probes with LIVE data...the bulk of the Probe doesn't matter because you are seeing both the Depth and Speed LIVE.
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