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John E Powell

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Everything posted by John E Powell

  1. As I noted in the post, I don't know the model number of the blank. However if I were to guess, 12-25 or 15-30.
  2. This topic comes up regularly. You can look back and find all the replies and decide for yourself. Here are some key points: Mono, Braid, and Wire divers all have their time and place, and people have preferences for many reasons that are important to them. Compared to each other, mono fishes shallow, braid intermediate, and wire deep. Where the fishing depths overlap, you will need more mono than braid to achieve the same depth, and you'll need more braid than Wire to achieve the same depth. Mono divers tend to be difficult to trip from the boat if fished near their maximum depths due to line stretch. Braid and Wire stretch minimally so they trip more easily. All three can be rigged to fish both regular and slide divers. Magnum divers are best paired with wire but can also be pulled with braid. You can mix line types on the same side of the boat (for a third or fourth diver), just run deeper lines inside and shallower outside. With a third or fourth diver, you can clear and reset either one without clearing the other just let out the diver slowly under partial drag and it will slide right back in place. Mono, braid and 19-strand wire are "easy" on rod guides, while the 7-strand wire is more "harsh" on rod guides and the reel's level wind. Consider the amount of use they will experience to decide if that is a factor that is important to you. While not necessary, the significant extra cost of roller-guide diver rods need only be considered if you plan to fish the more abrasive 7-strand wire. It is a LOT cheaper to fish traditional ceramic ring guide diver rods and use Mono, Braid, or 19-strand wire. It's easy to spot nicks or abrasion on mono and wear on braid line and repair it before it breaks. 7-strand can kink easily when mishandled, a unrepaired kink in 7-strand will hold for a while and then will break if you ignore the warning signs to cut out the kink and re-terminate the wire. 19-strand is very kink-resistant, you can tie knots with it. 19-strand tends to "rat-nest" when it gets damaged giving you a warning to re-terminate the wire. It's been my observation that casual non-observant anglers will lose the most gear on 7-strand wire and the least on braid. Figure out what you want to do and how much you are willing to invest and then pick the approach that makes the most sense to you For what it's worth, I fish 19-strand wire on ceramic guide ring rods using a "Twili" rod tip. I keep 6 divers aboard: a) 2 are 8' and heavier diver power. I usually pull magnum-size traditional divers on them. b) 2 are 8'6" and standard diver power. I usually pull standard-size traditional divers on them. c) 2 are 9' and standard diver power. They are dedicated-rigged to pull slide divers on them. When I run 2 divers on a side I run "a" inside and "b" outside (when fish are deep). I run "b" inside and "c" outside when fish are shallow.
  3. Changing over to the Torpedo swivel roller tip is a little more challenging to do than replacing a common ring guide. Unless something has changed, there used to be only 1 size tube for the Torpedo tip. To install it correctly (with long-term durability) you need to build up the rod tip with thread and epoxy rod finish, let it cure, and then mount the torpedo tip with rod tip adhesive. If you skip building up and fitting the rod blank tip to the roller guide tube, it wont hold up long term.
  4. I have 3 heavy-duty 30° flush mount rod holders. One older matching pair (the two on the left in photos), and a third is newer. They are all heavy-duty chrome-plated bronze rod holders, each tube is welded to the flange. I buffed and polished the top surface of each rod holder; they cleaned up nicely. The white tube liners on the older pair do show some discoloration (see photo). I would rate the older matched pair’s overall condition at good, and the newer single is very good. Pricing: Newer rod holder on the right PayPal Friends and Family $25 shipped USPS with tracking or PayPal Goods and Services purchase $26.06 shipped USPS with tracking Older matched pair on the left PayPal Friends and Family $40 shipped USPS with tracking or PayPal Goods and Services purchase $41.50 shipped USPS with tracking All three rod holders PayPal Friends and Family $55 shipped USPS with tracking or PayPal Goods and Services purchase $56.95 shipped USPS with tracking If you are interested please post in thread and send me a LOU message. Thanks.
  5. The nicest multi-species aluminum fishing boat I've seen in the 18' range is the Ranger VX 1788DC. It's the only 18' aluminum boat I'm aware of with a 102" beam. It also features a wood-free hull construction which, in my opinion, is hugely important down the road if you're planning on keeping the boat for a long time - no rotten floors or transom to deal with. I think they start about 43K with a Merc 150 and trailer.
  6. Back in the 80s when people were building double boards out of cedar, we'd move the pull point fore/aft to adjust them. If I recall correctly, we settled on a board that had two holes, one for faster salmon trolling speeds and one for slower walleye trolling speeds; we’d move the hook from one hole to the other. If I recall correctly, the faster salmon hole was the one towards the front and the slower walleye hole was behind it by an inch or so. If the principle is similar, it might help to try a pull point slightly behind the current location. You might try fashioning a bent offset pull hook to fit in the existing hole in the board to reposition the pull point. Try to keep the pull point the same distance offset from the side of the board as that is a factor also – if you change that you're changing two things at once.
  7. Under-powering a boat so severely is a sure way to vastly limit your pool of potential buyers.
  8. I have a pair of older style Cannon 9" risers. I used them to create an elevated trolling board across the stern of a smaller boat I no longer have, they brought the riggers up to a nice standing height for me instead of always having to kneel to rig lines. Each of the 4 cast aluminum bases has both 2 1/2" and 4" square bolt patterns. The 4" spaced holes are smooth for through bolting into deck plates. These are the holes I used and they show some wear from bolt heads. The 2 1/2" spaced holes are tapped with threads and are unused on both (threads are clean and corrosion-free). Functionally they are very strong and rigid, and while installations can certainly vary from one boat to the next, I always felt confident leaning against the board mounted between them with my 280lb. The standard 9" height could be lowered by trimming the aluminum tube between the cast aluminum bases. The tubing is designed to be run completely through the bases and set-screwed in place flush with the top and bottom base surfaces. The minimum height these could be configured to is about 4 3/4" with the bases touching each other and the tube trimmed accordingly. You could also go taller with longer tubing, if my memory serves me right I think Cannon made them up to 12" tall. $90 seems like a fair price. That's 4 bases at $20 each + $10 to cover shipping. They were about 50% more when new. I may need to disassemble them for packing and shipping in a USPS Flat Rate box (there are 4 set screws for each riser assembly) - if so, you will need to reassemble them with an Allen wrench. Payment, you choose one or the other: PayPay Friends and Family $90 shipped with tracking by USPS to your standard USPS address. - or - PayPal Goods and Services $93 shipped with tracking by USPS to your standard USPS address. Please post your interest in the thread and also message me through LOU mail.
  9. I have one new 300' Opti-Tackle 45lb copper in original packaging. PayPal friends and family price is $27 shipped with tracking by USPS to common US address. - or - PayPal goods and services price is $28.12 shipped with tracking by USPS to common US address. If you are interested, please make a post in the thread and also send me a message through LOU mail.
  10. I have a Fish Hawk TD that was given to me that I never used. The packaging has been opened so I'm going to say it was probably lightly if ever used. Apparently it was a gift to this person, but they bought an X4 shortly after it was gifted to them. I've had it for a couple years and wont use it as I have a couple X4 also. I pressed the start button and it appears to operate as it is supposed to though I have no way to check the water depth function. $90 Shipped with insurance and tracking via US Postal Service with payment of PayPal friends and family, or $93 if transaction is run through my PayPal business account with fees. Your choice. If interested, please post a reply in thread and message me via LOU mail.
  11. With respect to reels, “Low budget” for peace at home and “high quality” tend to be mutually exclusive. There are a few mid priced and mid quality reels though. Daiwa Sealines and Okuma Coldwaters are a good value and the line counter is on top (IMO where it should be) instead of sticking out on the side.
  12. Action is how the rod bends, power is stiffness or resistance to bending. There are no industry wide standards to either, but usually just what a company designates a rod to distinguish it relatively among other rods it offers. That being said a rod labelled 12-25 lb test line is on the very high power end of what people generally use for a rigger rod. 1 or 2 classes less powerful, such as 8-17 or 10-20, would be considered more desirable by most people.
  13. You will want a ceramic ring rod tip instead of stainless if you plan to run braid instead of only mono. Braid will groove a stainless rod tip over time.
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