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John E Powell

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Everything posted by John E Powell

  1. If you don't find a buyer through here, you might try contacting Joe as there is probably a waiting list.
  2. Regardless of brand biases, most engines are of good quality these days. If I were in the market for an engine, I would prioritize finding a reliable dealer that offers excellent post-sales maintenance and service history. Based on that, I would then choose among the brands they sell and service, taking into account the warranty and cost of the various brands. Shop the dealer, not the brand.
  3. As mentioned earlier, the expo was held last year and is scheduled to be held this year from February 15th through February 18th, 2024 at the Niagara Falls Convention Center. This year, there are over 250 seminars planned for the four-day event. Additionally, new this year is the availability of free parking in nearby municipal lots.
  4. I wasn't aware that the long-planned redesign of the Saltists are finally available. Looking at the specifications of the new models, I can see that Daiwa was listening to our feedback and has indeed relocated the line counter to the top of the frame, and lowered the retrieve rate on the size 30 to a more moderate 35" retrieve per turn. It looks like the new Saltist 30 should be better suited for diver rod duty than the previous model. Based on the new model's specifications, I think the size 30 is worth considering.
  5. I'm going to presume you're looking for a reel to pull magnum-size divers since you wrote that they will be inside diver rods. A magnum diver rod is the heaviest loaded rod on the boat. For that use, I'd prefer a moderate-speed higher-torque reel to a high-speed reel like the Saltist. Also, I'm not a fan of the Saltist's line counter location and size, I find it gets in the way of my wrist and I have to hold the front grip in an uncomfortable and less-than-ideal manner to reach around the line counter. My friend replaced his Saltists with Shimano Tekota 600 for the same reasons, low on torque with magnum-sized divers and awkward for him to use. I went with Okuma Cataline CT-305Da. I think both are better reels for inside magnum wire diver use.
  6. Bump to top with a new lower price.
  7. Coleman Ram-X Scanoe. Also, 2 paddles and anchor. Asking $270 Approximately 16’ x 43” with square stern. Here’s a link to reviews of this model: https://paddling.com/gear/coleman-paddlesports-scanoe-canoe IMG_0988.mov
  8. Hello everyone, This year, I’m available again to observe Western Lake Ontario tournaments. I have extensive observing experience and am a reliable person. You can reach me through LOU messaging, or feel free to text or call if you have my cell number.
  9. The Ranger VS1682SC Angler or Reatta are pretty nice boats in that under 17' size. They both have a multi-species style layout. They're very wide and roomy and are wood-free construction. They're both available as a dual console walk-through if you are looking for more of a trolling style layout. In a west coast style boat under 17', Hewescraft made a 160 Sportsman for a number of years up until recently. It's not as roomy as some other boats, but the heavy gauge construction and trolling-friendly cockpit layout is appealing to many people.
  10. As I noted in the post, I don't know the model number of the blank. However if I were to guess, 12-25 or 15-30.
  11. This topic comes up regularly. You can look back and find all the replies and decide for yourself. Here are some key points: Mono, Braid, and Wire divers all have their time and place, and people have preferences for many reasons that are important to them. Compared to each other, mono fishes shallow, braid intermediate, and wire deep. Where the fishing depths overlap, you will need more mono than braid to achieve the same depth, and you'll need more braid than Wire to achieve the same depth. Mono divers tend to be difficult to trip from the boat if fished near their maximum depths due to line stretch. Braid and Wire stretch minimally so they trip more easily. All three can be rigged to fish both regular and slide divers. Magnum divers are best paired with wire but can also be pulled with braid. You can mix line types on the same side of the boat (for a third or fourth diver), just run deeper lines inside and shallower outside. With a third or fourth diver, you can clear and reset either one without clearing the other just let out the diver slowly under partial drag and it will slide right back in place. Mono, braid and 19-strand wire are "easy" on rod guides, while the 7-strand wire is more "harsh" on rod guides and the reel's level wind. Consider the amount of use they will experience to decide if that is a factor that is important to you. While not necessary, the significant extra cost of roller-guide diver rods need only be considered if you plan to fish the more abrasive 7-strand wire. It is a LOT cheaper to fish traditional ceramic ring guide diver rods and use Mono, Braid, or 19-strand wire. It's easy to spot nicks or abrasion on mono and wear on braid line and repair it before it breaks. 7-strand can kink easily when mishandled, a unrepaired kink in 7-strand will hold for a while and then will break if you ignore the warning signs to cut out the kink and re-terminate the wire. 19-strand is very kink-resistant, you can tie knots with it. 19-strand tends to "rat-nest" when it gets damaged giving you a warning to re-terminate the wire. It's been my observation that casual non-observant anglers will lose the most gear on 7-strand wire and the least on braid. Figure out what you want to do and how much you are willing to invest and then pick the approach that makes the most sense to you For what it's worth, I fish 19-strand wire on ceramic guide ring rods using a "Twili" rod tip. I keep 6 divers aboard: a) 2 are 8' and heavier diver power. I usually pull magnum-size traditional divers on them. b) 2 are 8'6" and standard diver power. I usually pull standard-size traditional divers on them. c) 2 are 9' and standard diver power. They are dedicated-rigged to pull slide divers on them. When I run 2 divers on a side I run "a" inside and "b" outside (when fish are deep). I run "b" inside and "c" outside when fish are shallow.
  12. Changing over to the Torpedo swivel roller tip is a little more challenging to do than replacing a common ring guide. Unless something has changed, there used to be only 1 size tube for the Torpedo tip. To install it correctly (with long-term durability) you need to build up the rod tip with thread and epoxy rod finish, let it cure, and then mount the torpedo tip with rod tip adhesive. If you skip building up and fitting the rod blank tip to the roller guide tube, it wont hold up long term.
  13. I have 3 heavy-duty 30° flush mount rod holders. One older matching pair (the two on the left in photos), and a third is newer. They are all heavy-duty chrome-plated bronze rod holders, each tube is welded to the flange. I buffed and polished the top surface of each rod holder; they cleaned up nicely. The white tube liners on the older pair do show some discoloration (see photo). I would rate the older matched pair’s overall condition at good, and the newer single is very good. Pricing: Newer rod holder on the right PayPal Friends and Family $25 shipped USPS with tracking or PayPal Goods and Services purchase $26.06 shipped USPS with tracking Older matched pair on the left PayPal Friends and Family $40 shipped USPS with tracking or PayPal Goods and Services purchase $41.50 shipped USPS with tracking All three rod holders PayPal Friends and Family $55 shipped USPS with tracking or PayPal Goods and Services purchase $56.95 shipped USPS with tracking If you are interested please post in thread and send me a LOU message. Thanks.
  14. The nicest multi-species aluminum fishing boat I've seen in the 18' range is the Ranger VX 1788DC. It's the only 18' aluminum boat I'm aware of with a 102" beam. It also features a wood-free hull construction which, in my opinion, is hugely important down the road if you're planning on keeping the boat for a long time - no rotten floors or transom to deal with. I think they start about 43K with a Merc 150 and trailer.
  15. Back in the 80s when people were building double boards out of cedar, we'd move the pull point fore/aft to adjust them. If I recall correctly, we settled on a board that had two holes, one for faster salmon trolling speeds and one for slower walleye trolling speeds; we’d move the hook from one hole to the other. If I recall correctly, the faster salmon hole was the one towards the front and the slower walleye hole was behind it by an inch or so. If the principle is similar, it might help to try a pull point slightly behind the current location. You might try fashioning a bent offset pull hook to fit in the existing hole in the board to reposition the pull point. Try to keep the pull point the same distance offset from the side of the board as that is a factor also – if you change that you're changing two things at once.
  16. Under-powering a boat so severely is a sure way to vastly limit your pool of potential buyers.
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