mudflat

The TR-1 Gold works independently off it's own heading sensor and can hook up with your gps using NEMA0183. Mine works fine with Lowrance and I would think that it should with Garmin also. Not sure if your installing any downspeed but there has been some issues of interference with the TR-1 and I think Depth Raider units, I haven't had any interference problems with my Fish Hawk X-4. The TR-1 is a great unit, you're going to love it.

The TR-1 Gold works independently off it's own heading sensor and can hook up with your gps using NEMA0183. Mine works fine with Lowrance and I would think that it should with Garmin also. Not sure if your installing any downspeed but there has been some issues of interference with the TR-1 and I think Depth Raider units, I haven't had any interference problems with my Fish Hawk X-4. The TR-1 is a great unit, you're going to love it.

If I was going with Lowrance I would seriously look at the HDS8. It has the soft touch buttons which really makes it easier/faster to use and the screen is a major upgrade from the 7, exspecially when you split the screen. I can see/read my displays from the back of a 25, even with my older eyes. When you add the 2nd unit you can then network them together to automatically share waypoints, transducers, ect. You can also add radar, structure scan with both side and down images, even Sirius weather/radio to the network. I'm not familar with the Garmin but I here they are the best for GPS, not sure if they will network together when you get the 2nd unit.

The s1000 and the ST1000 are completely different auto pilots. The s1000 works off just your gps nema 0183 output and doesn't use any type of heading sensors. I've had one for four years and it works ok, most of the time. It will shut itself down sometimes when your speed gets down around 1.7 mph or slower and occasionally does a crazy Ivan turn to port when it feels like it. The hydraulic pump is fairly loud when it's running but not unbearable. Basically you are getting what you pay for but it is worth the money and is much better than not having any auto pilot. There are better ap's out there, like the ST1000, but they will cost 2-3x as much. I agree that you should check your cable, your outboard shouldn't steer hard at trolling speeds. You might just have to service or replace the cable and then could install an SPX-5R for an auto pilot for a lot less investment than switching to hyd.

Here's a link to Spoonpullers about a guy purchasing a 26' Woolridge pilot house that you might find interesting. He shows pictures of the boat being built step by step and the rigging. http://spoonpullers.proboards.com/index ... read=15336

If the screws will "snug up" at all I've had success using 3M 5500 sealant on the threads as a thread lock and then be careful not to overtighten the screw. Stops them from loosening up from vibration and works as an adhesive on the threads. If you use any replacement hardware (anchors, ect) make sure they are stainless

FH, you might want to ask this question on Bass Boat Central's Lowrance forum Those guys really seem to know all the compatibility issues. You will want to include the transducer models you have, it will be marked on a silver tag next to the plug. http://www.bbcboards.net/zeroforum?id=13 You might also be able to find a used Xc-111 in their electronics swap section

Don't worry, you'll be happy once you learn how to use it and see how it works on the water Any new finder can be a little overwhelming when you start, with all the settings and options available, but once you learn the menu logic and how to tweak them they are amazing. I really appreciate the clarity and brightness of the HDS display. I can see it from the back of the boat fine, even with my old eyes.

Lowrance has come out with a new HDS Gen2 series that are just starting to ship this week. That's why they have had sales and rebates to move out the old stock. It might be worth waiting for a new Gen2 unit if you can get it at that price when they become available. The Gen2 units have a faster processor and a new Structure Map feature but probably not much difference in regular sonar and gps functions other than quicker redraws. I'm sure the new processor will allow for more advanced features in the future.

If you go with the Basemap you will want to add a chip to get depth contours for Lake O If you get the Insight mapping you would have everything you probably need but you can not update it in the future. Usually you can get a basemap model and add a Navionics Fish-n chip for less money than the Insight model and you would have the best set up as long as all the areas you fish in are covered by the chip . Lowrance also offers the Insight mapping on a chip. FYI, Lowrance is coming out with new models, HDS Gen2, so that is why the current HDS models are on sale now. Hope this info helps

I run a T9.9 on a 25' PennYan hardtop and it works OK I do have a TR-1 Gold ap and I think that helps tremendously exspecially when the wind picks up, expensive but worth looking at.

This is one of the reasons boats are usually referred to as female - they go where they want, when they want, and can't seem to be able to make up their minds. Actually some boat designs are more prone to low speed wander than others and I've read that some Trophy's tend to wander a lot. One Trophy owner said that he tried a "Super Fin" ( www.superfinmarine.com ) and it helped quite a bit. I've found on my Penn Yan that lowering the trim tabs a little also helped some.

If your Dad is referring to the speed over ground, as measured by your GPS, then he is correct that they both are basically the same. If you are referring to the effective speed through the water, as measured by a speed/temp probe, then they can be differrent because the water is also moving and the currents are differrent at the surface than they are at depth. So you're both correct depending on your perspective but the fish are only looking at the effective speed of your lure through the water because that is their perspective.

Have you upgraded to 4.0 yet? There is supposed to be a fix in there to help with TM interference. You might want to check out the Bass Boat Central's Lowrance forum ( http://www.bbcboards.net/zeroforum?id=13 ) The guys on there might be more familar with your setup.

There is a 2007 -21' w\115 E-tec listed on walleye.com www.walleye.com listing number is 1226, boats in MN

http://www.payeverydayderby.com/index.php

Check with Jim at BOE Marine http://www.boemarine.com/products/104-0 ... -w-200-khz

Thanks for the input, I'm going to try the torpedo tips. They seem to like them on GLA also

Definitely a direct short, I think it's probably in the trailer wiring. You can easily check for a short by putting an ohm meter on at the trailer plug between the white wire (ground) and the brown wire (tailights). If you have continuity there (0 ohms) then you will have to find the short, which can be fun. Look for anyplace where the wires can rub against the trailer frame, is pinched under clips, or where it passes through passage holes. Could also be in any of the lights themselves. Usually turns into a process of elimination, one step at a time. Good luck

As long as they are all on different frequencies you should be OK. I think the Fish Hawk runs around 75hz and the HDS is at 86 or 200hz. You could run another sonar at 50hz without a problem. Another option would be to get another HDS unit (maybe a HDS 5) and network the two together. You could then use the same transducer for both units and could share waypoints between them. This is common with the bass boats.

Anybody have any experience using the Torpedo Roller Tip instead of a Twili-Tip on a Heartland for wire? I'm putting together a couple new rods and need to get one or the other, have used Twili's in the past. Thanks

Also make sure when you clean them that you remove all the "dark" meat from the lateral line area on the filets, this contains fats and has a very "fishy" flavor. They probably did this for you on the charter trip.

Try: Bill Jolliff Jolly Products 713 Boston Rd Ontario, NY 14519 315-524-2626 I got some new pads from Bill a couple of years ago

I would go with a "Pro Kicker" so you get high thrust, electric start and power tilt then mount it on a solid bracket like an Adventure Marine 4100. Instead of getting remote controls get a tiller model and invest in a Garmin TR-1 Gold auto pilot for your steering and throttle. Might be more than you were planning on spending but it would work slick and having a good auto pilot and speed control is priceless.

Here's a link that Jim at BOE Marine has on installing an Airmar thru hull They make it look easy He recommends using 3M 4200