mudflat

If you go with the Basemap you will want to add a chip to get depth contours for Lake O If you get the Insight mapping you would have everything you probably need but you can not update it in the future. Usually you can get a basemap model and add a Navionics Fish-n chip for less money than the Insight model and you would have the best set up as long as all the areas you fish in are covered by the chip . Lowrance also offers the Insight mapping on a chip. FYI, Lowrance is coming out with new models, HDS Gen2, so that is why the current HDS models are on sale now. Hope this info helps

I run a T9.9 on a 25' PennYan hardtop and it works OK I do have a TR-1 Gold ap and I think that helps tremendously exspecially when the wind picks up, expensive but worth looking at.

This is one of the reasons boats are usually referred to as female - they go where they want, when they want, and can't seem to be able to make up their minds. Actually some boat designs are more prone to low speed wander than others and I've read that some Trophy's tend to wander a lot. One Trophy owner said that he tried a "Super Fin" ( www.superfinmarine.com ) and it helped quite a bit. I've found on my Penn Yan that lowering the trim tabs a little also helped some.

If your Dad is referring to the speed over ground, as measured by your GPS, then he is correct that they both are basically the same. If you are referring to the effective speed through the water, as measured by a speed/temp probe, then they can be differrent because the water is also moving and the currents are differrent at the surface than they are at depth. So you're both correct depending on your perspective but the fish are only looking at the effective speed of your lure through the water because that is their perspective.

Have you upgraded to 4.0 yet? There is supposed to be a fix in there to help with TM interference. You might want to check out the Bass Boat Central's Lowrance forum ( http://www.bbcboards.net/zeroforum?id=13 ) The guys on there might be more familar with your setup.

There is a 2007 -21' w\115 E-tec listed on walleye.com www.walleye.com listing number is 1226, boats in MN

http://www.payeverydayderby.com/index.php

Check with Jim at BOE Marine http://www.boemarine.com/products/104-0 ... -w-200-khz

Thanks for the input, I'm going to try the torpedo tips. They seem to like them on GLA also

Definitely a direct short, I think it's probably in the trailer wiring. You can easily check for a short by putting an ohm meter on at the trailer plug between the white wire (ground) and the brown wire (tailights). If you have continuity there (0 ohms) then you will have to find the short, which can be fun. Look for anyplace where the wires can rub against the trailer frame, is pinched under clips, or where it passes through passage holes. Could also be in any of the lights themselves. Usually turns into a process of elimination, one step at a time. Good luck

As long as they are all on different frequencies you should be OK. I think the Fish Hawk runs around 75hz and the HDS is at 86 or 200hz. You could run another sonar at 50hz without a problem. Another option would be to get another HDS unit (maybe a HDS 5) and network the two together. You could then use the same transducer for both units and could share waypoints between them. This is common with the bass boats.

Anybody have any experience using the Torpedo Roller Tip instead of a Twili-Tip on a Heartland for wire? I'm putting together a couple new rods and need to get one or the other, have used Twili's in the past. Thanks

Also make sure when you clean them that you remove all the "dark" meat from the lateral line area on the filets, this contains fats and has a very "fishy" flavor. They probably did this for you on the charter trip.

Try: Bill Jolliff Jolly Products 713 Boston Rd Ontario, NY 14519 315-524-2626 I got some new pads from Bill a couple of years ago

I would go with a "Pro Kicker" so you get high thrust, electric start and power tilt then mount it on a solid bracket like an Adventure Marine 4100. Instead of getting remote controls get a tiller model and invest in a Garmin TR-1 Gold auto pilot for your steering and throttle. Might be more than you were planning on spending but it would work slick and having a good auto pilot and speed control is priceless.

Here's a link that Jim at BOE Marine has on installing an Airmar thru hull They make it look easy He recommends using 3M 4200

Thinking of adding radar over the longggg winter but have some questions for you guys that have had it for awhile. 1- How often do you use it and in what situations? 2- With the other options we have now for weather (Sirius, Cell phones, ect) is radar still the best option? 3- Is it worth the investment to install a system. I know it is difficult to put a value on safety items (all of them are worth every dollar you spent when you really need them) but if it's not turned on it's not helping. I'm looking at a new broadband unit to go with my HDS display and am thinking it would help when running in the dark and obviously fog. May also be worth using it as an alarm when I'm running on AP and not paying close attention to other boats. It has always amazed me that when you seem to have the lake to yourself with only a few boats out the next thing you know you have to change course to avoid each other. All opinions and input appreciated Thanks Roy

I'm have a Yamaha T9.9 with a TR-1 on a 26' PennYan with a hardtop and it has no problem handling anything I want to be out in (3-5's). Seems to have plenty of power to spare to control the boat even in a cross wind and has easy, precise speed adjustment. As long as you went with a high thrust 4-stroker I would think a 15hp would be plenty for your rig. The TR-1 just works, solid and quiet. Seems expensive when you are buying it but well worth it when you're using it.

Wayne Contact Jim at www.boemarine.com and tell him about your boat and what you want to use the auto pilot for. He sells most of the different brands (Sitex, Simrad, Raymarine, Garmin, Furuno) and will give you good advice. He has loads of experience setting up electronics and has some of the best pricing available.

The LCA has a metal frame and ball bearings, therefore more expensive, while the LC is a composite frame and bushings. They both have similar or the same drags and either will work fine. If you go with the the LC make sure it is an Accudepth Plus, older LC's (not the Plus model)had problems with the drags. To compare them check out www.fishusa.com

Deaf Fisherman, A 47LC is the right size for 1000' of 30lb wire, I also use the 47LCA's and like them. Put some electrical tape on the arbor so the wire doesn't slip and make sure you spool the wire on very tight or it will cut into itself and bind. To make sure it's tight enough I usually attach a tripped dipsy and let all the wire out my first time out. If you're starting from scratch and need everything, A TOM MIK sells complete rigs with either Daiwa's or Tekotas all set up, ready to go FYI, Copper line is used like lead core but it will get deeper than core with less line out, 300ft gets down 60+ ft

27's will work for either 12-15lb mono for clean spoons and browns or you can use them with 30-50lb Power Pro as diver set ups I have some set up like this and they work out well

John Thanks for the input. Hopefully somebody else has tried this and will share their experience. I'm pretty sure the kicker (T9.9) will handle it Ok except in strong side winds, then I would go back to the main motor and bags or just head in. I can sleep through most any noise, the real question is if the AP noise would be annoying to my 1st mate? I'm usually in the back of the boat anyway and she's up front reading and relaxing. That's why I need a good AP, promotes marital harmony! Roy

John I have a PY 255 that has rotary cable with power steering. I plan on installing a kicker and an EZ steer connection and was wondering if you think the AP14r would handle steering the kicker if the main motor is not running (no power steering)? Was also curious as to how much noise the AP14r generates under the hardtop and in the cuddy? Plan B would be to spend the bucks and convert to hydraulic Thanks Roy

My guess on the starter issue is that you didn't have a good connection at the battery terminal ends and the resistance created the heat. Your starter is probably OK. Just need to make sure your battery terminals are clean and tight.