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AnglingAddict

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Everything posted by AnglingAddict

  1. AnglingAddict
    Same here - very curious to know what happened. Terrible situation.
  2. AnglingAddict
    Best thing you can do to help prevent a tragedy like this is to make sure you have all safety equipment on board, in good condition and easily accessible. Make sure all thru hulls are properly bedded with the correct sealant (not caulk or silicone). Inspect hoses yearly for dry rot, cracks or leaks, and make sure all are double clamped with stainless clamps. Ball valves near thru hulls are good as well. Bellows inspected and replaced at regular intervals if it's an I/O. At least a couple bilge pumps as well as an indicator at the dash when a pump is on, wire right into a float switch - this could give you an early indication that something is seeping if you notice the bilge kicking on more than usual. High water alarm as well. Rags on board can be used to plug holes in a pinch and slow down rate at which water comes in. One last thing is to know your boat...inside and out. Things can still happen fast no doubt.
  3. AnglingAddict
    As I left to run the boat to Sodus at the end of the season a couple weeks back wife snapped a pic of our boat as I was pulling away - the bayliner on the end of the dock is the boat that went down.
  4. AnglingAddict
    It was an outboard boat....
  5. AnglingAddict
    The gentleman was out with two others - sounds like they took on water and as boat was going down 2 jumped and rode a cooler for a couple hours before being picked up by another fisherman. The gentleman who owned the boat went down with the boat and according to the 2 survivors they didn't see him in the water after the boat went under. He was found in the cuddy - my guess is it happened fast and he went down to get life preservers and got trapped as the boat went down. Small cuddy so I can only imagine maybe he was struggling to get to life preservers with rods and tackle all over the place. Probably panicking as well. His boat was slipped a couple slips down from me. Nice guy - I'm not sure what happened, but as with most tragedies it is usually a chain of events which leads to the overall outcome.
  6. AnglingAddict
    Assuming your outdrive is submerged - a 20" shaft looks like it would work just fine in that application. What's distance from where it mounts to say bottom of the trim tab - you definitely want the prop for the kicker in clean water below the hull if possible. I am guessing in the pic the bracket is in the "down" position based on where the bottom paint is applied...
  7. AnglingAddict
    Have to figure out where you are going to mount it - most kickers are 20" shaft - mount it as low as possible without swamping it. The brackets that can lift the kicker up when you are running are ideal.
  8. AnglingAddict
    You could look at the current draw for all of the items that run continuously, that's the baseline and then make some assumptions about the other stuff - should be able to get a ballpark number you can go off of. I honestly just don't think you will be able to make-do without charging for any length of time, and if your main starts off of the batteries everything else runs off of - that could spell trouble.
  9. AnglingAddict
  10. AnglingAddict
    Honestly - I don't know. A few years back a brand new Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust was around $2500 new which included forward controls, electric start/trim and obviously charging system. I would think if you looked you could find one for a grand give or take... Have to look at how much you run and what power consumed by everything is when you are fishing - chartplotters, fish finders, speed/temp probes, bilge pumps, stereo, washdown pumps, riggers, etc. I'm not sure what you are running, but without charging it doesn't take long for batteries to get drawn down under these conditions...
  11. AnglingAddict
    Why don't you buy a kicker with a charging system? It seems like that would solve your issues with charging while fishing. Auto-pilots also will consume a fair amount of power as well depending on how rough it is and how active the AP has to work on any given day. Charging systems on the Yamaha Hugh Thrusts and Merc Pro-kickers put out like 10-15 amps...
  12. AnglingAddict
    STP Oil Treatment contains Zinc - specifically ZDDP which is the stuff you want in your oil. I use Rotella 15/40 in my Crusaders and a bottle of STP oil treatment at every oil change (every 50 hours).
  13. AnglingAddict
    This is what I was trying to describe - I made a small "shelf" out of Starboard and then underneath the RAM mount attaches. On the top I have my speed/temp units mounted.
  14. AnglingAddict
    Throw a piece of starboard between the ram mount and the X4 mount. On backside mount starboard to ram mount, topside screw the X4 into the starboard.
  15. AnglingAddict
    Thanks for posting Tom!
  16. AnglingAddict
    Good luck with the sale - will miss seeing it when we move back to Blue dock next year
  17. AnglingAddict
    Fly looks upside-down....
  18. AnglingAddict
    Look at it in person - boats always look cleaner in pics than they do in person...
  19. AnglingAddict
    As others have said - having the right lure is probably only 15% of the game. Your best bet before you go crazy buying everything and breaking the bank is to give it a shot with some minimal equipment - once you do that, hold back some of what you planned to spend on tackle and take a charter. By trying it on your own and then taking a charter you will learn much more than if you just take a charter to start out. After that spend a few more bucks on some of the things that were being run and at that point you will probably have shortened your learning curve by a year over someone who just starts out and randomly tries to figure it all out...
  20. AnglingAddict
    Buy some of the pre-made meat rigs by A-Tom-Mik, add a strip of cut herring into the meat head, attach behind a larger flasher or attractor, and hang on! http://atommik.com/king-meat-rigs/
  21. AnglingAddict
    How many hours/years have you used it?
  22. AnglingAddict
    Forgot to mention bags attached mid-ship...As far as rudders go I had 3" wider and 2" taller and then had them offset another inch lower. That made a huge difference without putting too much stress on the hydraulics. If you go too big the force that needs to be applied increases proportional the increase in surface area of the rudders and you could end up blowing a hydraulic line.
  23. AnglingAddict
    I have 454's in my 33. I always run 2 bags - one on each side. I run a 48" amish bag on the same side as the motor that is running and a smaller 28" or 36" bag on the side without the motor running. My boat would struggle with the original rudders - but it was fishable, just not ideal. You may have to tweak the gain on your autopilot as well to help. That being said I upsized my rudders this winter. A few inches wider and a couple inches taller than the stock rudders and that definitely helps as well.
  24. AnglingAddict

    I was looking to get $175

  25. AnglingAddict
    I'm in Baldwinsville - looking for $175. Was keeping it around for a spare but willing to part with it.
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