AnglingAddict

Professional
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About AnglingAddict

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Home Port
    Oswego
  • Boat Name
    Persistence - Tiara 33 Open
  1. Assuming your outdrive is submerged - a 20" shaft looks like it would work just fine in that application. What's distance from where it mounts to say bottom of the trim tab - you definitely want the prop for the kicker in clean water below the hull if possible. I am guessing in the pic the bracket is in the "down" position based on where the bottom paint is applied...
  2. Have to figure out where you are going to mount it - most kickers are 20" shaft - mount it as low as possible without swamping it. The brackets that can lift the kicker up when you are running are ideal.
  3. You could look at the current draw for all of the items that run continuously, that's the baseline and then make some assumptions about the other stuff - should be able to get a ballpark number you can go off of. I honestly just don't think you will be able to make-do without charging for any length of time, and if your main starts off of the batteries everything else runs off of - that could spell trouble.
  4. Honestly - I don't know. A few years back a brand new Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust was around $2500 new which included forward controls, electric start/trim and obviously charging system. I would think if you looked you could find one for a grand give or take... Have to look at how much you run and what power consumed by everything is when you are fishing - chartplotters, fish finders, speed/temp probes, bilge pumps, stereo, washdown pumps, riggers, etc. I'm not sure what you are running, but without charging it doesn't take long for batteries to get drawn down under these conditions...
  5. Why don't you buy a kicker with a charging system? It seems like that would solve your issues with charging while fishing. Auto-pilots also will consume a fair amount of power as well depending on how rough it is and how active the AP has to work on any given day. Charging systems on the Yamaha Hugh Thrusts and Merc Pro-kickers put out like 10-15 amps...
  6. STP Oil Treatment contains Zinc - specifically ZDDP which is the stuff you want in your oil. I use Rotella 15/40 in my Crusaders and a bottle of STP oil treatment at every oil change (every 50 hours).
  7. This is what I was trying to describe - I made a small "shelf" out of Starboard and then underneath the RAM mount attaches. On the top I have my speed/temp units mounted.
  8. Throw a piece of starboard between the ram mount and the X4 mount. On backside mount starboard to ram mount, topside screw the X4 into the starboard.
  9. for sale : usa

    Good luck with the sale - will miss seeing it when we move back to Blue dock next year
  10. Fly looks upside-down....
  11. Look at it in person - boats always look cleaner in pics than they do in person...
  12. As others have said - having the right lure is probably only 15% of the game. Your best bet before you go crazy buying everything and breaking the bank is to give it a shot with some minimal equipment - once you do that, hold back some of what you planned to spend on tackle and take a charter. By trying it on your own and then taking a charter you will learn much more than if you just take a charter to start out. After that spend a few more bucks on some of the things that were being run and at that point you will probably have shortened your learning curve by a year over someone who just starts out and randomly tries to figure it all out...
  13. Buy some of the pre-made meat rigs by A-Tom-Mik, add a strip of cut herring into the meat head, attach behind a larger flasher or attractor, and hang on! http://atommik.com/king-meat-rigs/