Sk8man

Chris covered it beautifully...ditto on his answer P.S. There is no such thing as a "stupid" question if asked in earnest.

They work great just throw a peanut or Spin-N-Glow behind it and you're all set. Less drag than the metal blades

yes a blank separate card.

June is usually a "transition" month on the lakes with the thermocline starting to form so leadccores are often productive then and if you find the fish somewhat below where your 5 core is running you can do as Big Dave suggested sometimes I just add a few large split shot about 4 or 5 ft up from the spoon and troll a slight bit slower but it depends on what else I'm running too.

Lowrance makes one specifically for water which is hand held called the H2O. They aren't real expensive and they will give sog and the GPS stuff. I use one for a backup to my depth finder/GPS. It is AA battery powered and have a plug to plug into a receptacle on the boat as well.

Like many things in life the selection of the pound test whether wire or braid or mono is a matter of compromise. It boils down to using something that gives you what you need for the job without as many potential drawbacks as possible. Usually things that are specifically designed for a particular purpose perform better than multipurpose items. In most situations with fishing lines this is the case. All things being equal the larger the diameter of line regardless of material the less nicely it will cut through the water and achieve comparable depth with a lesser diameter of the same material. In most cases you would be best served by dedicating specific rods and reels for salt vs. fresh water and the lines would be selected taking into consideration the substantial differences in requirements. I think 80 lb test in fresh water is substantial "overkill" given the available species because even with something like muskies you can use small diameter titanium leaders. The main reason for using relatively high pound test with braid in fresh water is because of the use of boards where the additional strength may be needed pulling through rough water. The decision should usually be what is the smallest diameter line with the best strength for the species you'll be targeting with the equipment you'll be using. I know a lot of folks on here seem to have an aversion to roller tips vs. twilli tips and twillis may be less expensive and will usually get the job done but I believe they are harder on the wire over time than roller tips and perhaps more prone to kinking. I have wire on a few of my roller rigs that is over 30 years old that I still have full trust in. I haven't had any problems or breakage with 30 lb test ss wire despite numerous kings on it.

Over the years I've used about every type of wire out there whether on Seth Green rigs, or pulling copper or wire rigs in everything from 20 lb test to 80 lb and I can tell you that Monel wire sinks nicely but that is about the only positive connected with it I currently still have it on my A and S automatic reel (for pulling/ jerking) wire because it is thinner diameter and cuts through the water a bit better than copper wire so I can get more of it on the reel but it is truly terrible in terms of kinking (as it is incredibly soft wire). Seven strand or 19 strand stainless wire is the way to go with any wire rig and braided copper is the way to go for copper rigs and single strand copper is best for jerking copper (bottom fishing). An additional thing (or alternate method) with the great tips from Gill T is the first time you go out on the boat after putting on new stainless wire is put a 1 or 2 lb sinker on the swivel and run out to deep water and let out a bunch of the wire and rewind it under that tension and it will seat nicely on the reel spool. Also make sure when the wire is put on the reel in the first place that the level wind guide lines up straight with the wire (i.e. not on an angle).

Jeff - dvd is right the leadcore usually excels about now. The sticks are usually better earlier and in shallow in my view anyway small to medium sized spoons in the orange/red range and copper colored as well.

Oldkevin you have a PM

Another consideration is the fact that if/when (can be often) you are dealing with a north, NW or NE wind you may be able to get out of the lift but not back in (without maybe damaging the boat)