EKoselny

I am by no means an expert, but I have read a lot from experts on this site. Usually I start in the morning with shorter leads behind the ball, maybe around 10-15 feet. I like to run my spoons a little bit longer leads than my flashers so they are aoound10 feet behind them. As the bite gets slower you can try to drop your rigs further back away from the balls for a little bit more stealthy approach. I have not heard of anyone really running a dipsy behind a planer board. Dispys are run by themselves off the side of the boat and have an adjustable weight that will pull them down and out away from the boat. The higher the setting the less depth you will get, but the further they will pull away from the boat. Planer boards are used for flat lines or any of the other weighted lines like lead core, copper, or weighted steel. Length of line behind the planer board really depends on what you are running. If for say you are running a 300' copper set up, you will let out the 300', then maybe a little more, and then attach to the planer release Hope this helps

I agree that chemicals are the only thing that is going to work. I have had decent luck using ZEP brand Calcium Lime and Rust remover from Lowes, and a power washer. I buy a gallon and use a battery powered sprayer to apply it. You will want to power wash all the live algae and grime off first. Then spray the CLR remover on all of the crusty build up. you will see it foam up instantly as it breaks down the calcium and lime. Let it sit for a while, maybe 30 minutes, then power wash off. Most of the build up comes off with this. But yes, I usually have to go back and hit up areas a second time. I also have some On-Off and man that stuff is HARSH!!!! Wear PPE if using. I have only used this to apply to small areas that the CLR stuff didn't clear off after two rounds. IT sucks, it takes a while, and by the time you are done you will want to bottom paint it for next year.

I was out yesterday evening. Saw one giant bait ball around 140' so i fished from 120' - 180' but never saw any more. On my way back in started seeing a lot more bait and marks from 100' and in. Only caught one little shaker in about 120'

Snubbers are a personal preference, I do not run them and I don't feel like I ever have had an issue with my divers. Also, I am pretty sure the snubber goes on the other side of the diver, not between the rod and diver, but between the diver and the lure. NBK is a color patter, stands for Natural Born Killer, pretty sure just about ever spoon manufacturer makes a version.

I used to run a lite bite with the mag weight and ring kit on it. They do get pretty deep, pretty comparable to a mag dipsey. I think I lost it two years ago when I accidentally bumped it off the bottom too many times. I still run wire slide divers but now I keep them as high divers so I don't use the mag weight kits.

Not sure if they were filling the pens or direct stocking. This year there are two pens with all steelhead. I think there is 5000 per pen.

TTT

New, never used jet ski ramp made by Ve-Ve inc. Includes 16' ramp, two additional 8' and one additional 4' ramp sections, electric winch and battery. Asking $3200.00 obo https://www.veveinc.com/shop/PWC-Ramp-DDA-PW17-16-Ft.-long.html

9.9hp would be plenty big for that size boat. If you are adding a kicker and re-working your batteries, I would suggest finding a way to put the two batteries on the opposite side of the boat as the kicker to counter balance the weight of the new motor. I have two starting batteries on the port side with my kicker on the starboard side and my boat still leans to the starboard side quite a bit.

TTT

TTT

Where are you located? Hold old is this unit? Thanks,

Frank, sent you a PM

Yes they are.

Also, just an FYI, I have taken mine apart several times and greased every part inside and it has made no improvements for me.

You first need to remove the drive unit from the steering wheel. Then there are several screws on the backside of the unit that need to be removed. Once those are removed you can separate the front cover from the unit.

TTT