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dbitting

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  1. What's a ransomware attack? Hackers use ransomware -- a type of malware -- to scramble a company's computer data and hold it hostage until a ransom is paid. In a double extortion scheme, the attackers pilfer the data and threaten to publish it. On Thursday, Bloomberg reported that Colonial paid nearly $5 million in ransom for software to decrypt its computers. The report contradicted an earlier story by The Washington Post that the company was restoring its data from backups and didn't plan to pay the hackers. Bloomberg reported the software tool, which was paid for with an unspecified cryptocurrency, was slow so Colonial continued restoring its system from backups. The above was from CNET and the first statement is not totally correct. it is usually an encryption app that is run on the network and the hacker holds the key releasing it to you when the ransom is paid. if you have backups and are up to date or run volume shadow services on you drives you have very good chance you won't have to pay. The hackers are now seeking out Backups and if found the process them first and follow up with the live data.
  2. This is nothing new and has been going on for quite some time. We were hit a few years back on a Saturday morning and in 4 hours all of our data was encrypted with a note. that note included an email to contact and see what the ransom was to unlock the files again. We didn't have to pay that because we had a good backup system. As I mentioned in MANY cased it is a malicious code that is logins against your system and once it has found access it does it's thing. I worked closely with a forensic team trying to determine how and where it got through but because I reacted quickly i may have destroyed the evidence showing the how and where. RDP (Windows Remote Desktop) is one of the ways to access the companies FTP servers or any other unsecure port gives these thieves a portal to your network. Simply closing a popup or replying to an email creatively constructed can give them the information they need. Be sure in most cases it starts with a username and password. Google Ransomware and do some reading. As mentioned you will start to see MFA (Multi factor Authentication) where you enter a username and password and you will be sent a code or get a phone call confirming you requested access. Remember people are lazy they don't want long and sophisticated password and these people exploit it. This could be a whole topic in itself
  3. Sadly I would bet it was a weak password is actually of they got in. If it was Ramsomeware chances are it was banging away at their routers with simple usernames and password. common are admin, root, administrator with the same as the name for the password or even just password. where I work I get about 1.7M hits on our router trying to get in and we really have nothing of importance to the outside, However if the manage to get in and encrypt all your files they can charge whatever they want to unlock your files. Since most ask for Bit Coin it becomes untraceable. companies pay thousands to millions depending on how much was encrypted. and companies PAY IT!
  4. I just recent spent this season trying to find the correct prop for my rig. I recently completely had my 4.3l rebuilt and swapped my OMC drive to an Alpha 1 Gen 2 unit. with that said there was no prop with the new unit so i started with the old OMC prop that was on the old drive. 15x17 was my starting point. i recorded my speed and WOT rpm then went to that same site. I found the dry weigh of my boat and entered in all the information. I think the initial. recommendation was a 14x17 if i remember however it was not even close is wa at the MAX RPM of the engine recommended by the builder at WOT and on plain. OMC recommend the WOT should be at 4600 rpm. for every inch in pitch the rpm decreases about 150 rpm for every inch of diameter the rpms should decrease 500rpm. I found there are way too many factors to follow a chart. I suggest weighing the boat empty first then add all your gear you normally would put in on a trip add in the weight persons on board on a normal trip and tune the boat with that weight on at time of testing. You boat will perform different when your are alon than when 4 people are onboard. props are give and take, you cannot have a holeshote and ttop speed at the same time. In my case I started at a 14x17 and went all the way up to a 14x 21 and finally settled in at a 14x19. Turning Point recommended the 14x21 but it just didn't work the way i liked. I went with the 4 blade aluminium basically i wanted the 4 blade torque to have punch in the waves on the ocean however i didn't want to give up a bunch of top end. I didnt even venture into SS props as i am know to tear up several per season. this summer alone i had 3 strikes on my blades that i never saw the submerged objects 2 I felt as i passed over them but the 3rd may have been a sea creature as the blade was trashed but no signs of impact wothe the normal hard object. I fish river where they are tidal waters and the amount of [email protected]#t floating is amazing. In the end i settled with a TP Hustler 4 blade 14x19 prop the plains quickly and i still can get 30 to 34mph top speed at 4600RPM WOT properly trimmed. BTW the prop calculator indicated a top speed of 45MPH LOL not even close! I hope this hepls
  5. great videos. I would recommend COOSA Board for your project if you are tearing the boat down this far. with 2 layers of fiberglass on each side of the boards altering the weave you could gain so much strength and reduce weight at the same time while making that boat impervious to water. it is a bit more money but i think easier to work with. This product will hold no water, never rots. there are videos on youtube ( boatworks today) that show how he used it to make his side panels and transom. I did my transom this year with it and it worked out great. if you are replacing the flotation foam find the highst density closed cell foam available and you will also eliminate water soaking it. Ebay has ost of the fiberglass and foam needs. I can send you the info from where i purchased what i used.
  6. a bit old to answer but YES it works. for your boat you will have to modify the panel to your cuddy, i built a box around the opening and mounted the electronics in the box inside the cuddy it works great simple to install $1300 for AP
  7. I use 1 hds 9 for navigation and autopilot and the other for sonar except my split is horizontal as i fish bottom.
  8. Are you planning Autopilot in the future? if so look at Lowrance as they offer the cheapest package for adding autopilot ( outboard and Motorguide xi5) the trolling motor offers anchor lock I bought 2 HDS9 Carbons. GPS antenna integrated Audio networking and autopilot ( cable steering) $4500 last year. This is more that you are looking for but i started with that question and was very disappointed quickly at the small screen. too much information ti fit sonar and chart on at the same time. I will say if Hummingbird had a reasonable Autopilot that would have been my first choice. their screens are really clear and offer mega imaging SSandDI
  9. When you are ready I want to be your exclusive PA dealer
  10. I use the HDS 9 Dual screen with an 83/200HD and a total scan transducer.My setup y has the capability to connect up 4 transducers, however currently i only use two and mosty this year the side and downscan 455KHZ I can say when you learn how to set up the SS/DS and get to know how to use it. fish finding has a whole new meaning. as mentioned th 50,83 and 200 have a cone that projects out and gets larger as you get deeper, however the 455/800 SS and DI create a SLICE behind your boat to the left and right of the stern creating a picture of the water column and the bottom. When ou find something like bate or marks you simply touch it press the flag and create WP. for me i then create a rout and use my autopilot to troll wher i think the fish are. Lowrance has a new LIVE IMAGE transducer but it is pricey $999 i think it is.
  11. is there flotation foam under the seat for buoyancy?
  12. good choice. their support is great also. i boight a OMC to Alpha conversion before i realized i needed a transom replacement. i had an Alpha1 gen1 drive but didn't read the requirements. the conversion was foe the Gen 2 drive sadly if i had known i had all i needed to put the gen 1 drive in instead purchased a used gen 2 drive. works good but have water in system like you have. I will fix it after striper Fall season. My OMC drive had a noise in drive. I decided to check it while i was having my new 4.3L motor built. Still working through fuel issues but the boat is great now
  13. If you can afford it i would get the replacement depending on how many hours are on your current unit. $900 is a small price to pay, $300 per year, to know it wont' be your headache. If you pay someone to reseal the unit and he missed a failing bearing or gear you may have to pay the same amount and more to replace defective or worn parts. In the end the remaned unit with a warranty would serve you better. I went down that path and it was more expensive than replacing it with a remanufactured or new unit. You can search my posts and see what i went through. You could also replace the oils and save up for the replacement or even repm=ace the oil after several trips till the end of the season then get a manual and tear it down yourself. Seal kits are cheap. its the time and experience you are paying for. I have the same thing on an out drive i bought used this season where the oil is milky but can't seem to find the point where the water enters the unit. The upper and lower units are joined and share the oil however there is no oil leaking on my driveway while it is out of the water. For Now i just change the oil after 2 days out on the water and will deal with it over the winter downtime.
  14. use a level on your rail when you are on the water when you put the boat on the trailer adjust the trailer so the boat is at the same attitude then set you transducer level. this should give you the proper setting
  15. the issue with the manual switch is human error. if you forget to switch to all the house battery wont be charged. if you draw on both house and start batteries and have the switch on one and draw both batteries down you may not have enough to start the motor. the bluesea switch and acr is the way to go. flip the switch on and the relay monitors the voltage the correct switch would give the option to join both batteries in an emergency. it is a nice system installed correctly.
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