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dbitting

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  1. I would be feeding the barrel with fresh water while it is running to replace what comes out and cooling the warmed water. It is too cold here yet to be doing this now i have about a month yet probably before we get warm enough days
  2. That barrel idea is awesome. I have to complete my new engine assembly and install it back in the boat. Once installed i am converting to a closed cooling system so i won't have to worry about winterizing the block anymore. When i fire the engine up for the first time i have to hold the engine at 2k rpm for 30 minutes to break the motor in this barrel would save me a cold trip to the river because muffs are not to be used at that high rpm, doesn't supply enough water to the motor. I also coverted from mechanical fuel pump to electric and took the old ignition system out and replaced that with an updated electronic system that can easily get parts for. I'll carry a spare pump and module in case I have a failure on the water as they are easy to replace. Striper fishing open March 1st and i am no where ready for the season!
  3. What i was told was to mark the distributor where the plug wire is for #1 Cylinder bring the engine to TDC confirm it is on the firing stroke and the distributor will drop in. if it doesn't mover the rotor counter clockwise a bit and drop it in. when you have it right it will fall pretty much in but it may not bottom out because the oil drive didn't engage yet. turning the motor over by hand will allow it to drop the rest of the way. crank the motor moving the distributor slightly until it fires will get you close to timing then check with a light
  4. Only need 3 things to get it to fire. Air, Fuel and spark air you have spark you checked so make sure fuel is getting to the cylinder. Pull the plug on a cylinder and see if it is wet. Are you sure are on TDC #1 cylinder AND both valves closed. if not pull the distributer and rotate engine again until it is. if you blow air into the cylinder and it don't leak out you should be at TDC for that cylinder with the timing mark on TDC. Hope this helps
  5. I actually went the other route i got another block and it is at the machine shop now. Bored .030 over refinish crank new internals rebuilt heads and added a closed cooling system. i am picking up the motor this Saturday
  6. I actually have a OMC 4.3l block that just a crack in it looks like yours and i am deciding what to do with it
  7. I actually have a OMC 4.3l block that just a crack in it looks like yours and i am deciding what to do with it
  8. MY bad i don't get on here too often and when i did for another post I noticed your post
  9. Do some research before you pay that kind of money. I paid $200 for the exact engine block out of an 89 s10 blazer. The only reason the fuel pump wasn't drilled was because the truck was EFI not carbureted. Don't let a marina fool you into the difference in marine and on road engines. Casting is a casting so use the casting numbers and search a salvage yard. My expenses are in the machine work, block cleaning, cylinder boring .030 over turning the rod and main journals .010, Rebuild both heads and assembling the long block $1700. When complete I will have an engine built by a machine shop with 0 hours and quality parts, (purchased myself). Unfortunately it is a large expense $2500+ then add the $800 closed loop cooling system once completed this should outlast me. My thought is one Seatow would cost that much out on the Atlantic Ocean, I'd rather have piece of mind i did everything right not to break down on the water. Closed loop cooling takes care of the need to winterize the engine, only need to tend to the heat exchanger and the exhaust manifolds if it's a half system like mine. Each year or two you only have to check the fresh water side for deposits and debris. Clean with acid or CLR.
  10. I saved my old cracked block too. I will be trying to fix the cack and sending it out to be machined. I will build it as a spare motor for me if i lose mine during the season.
  11. I have the same boat and experience similar issues. Depending on how i load the boat is how it leans on plane. I have to adjust my trim tabs even wnen someone moves from one side to the other while on plane. It could be the hull design
  12. I am in the exact situation, I bout my Penn Yan Tournament 212 from Lake Ontario area and ran it several years winterized it each season. This Summer i lost a cylinder turned out to be a head. replaced the head and i was back on the water. In October i went to winterize my boat and when i drained the block nothing came out. It turned out back in July i loaned my boat to a friend fro his vacation and he hit a sandbar sucking mud and sand into the block clogging the water jackets. I removed the engine flushed the cooling system managed to get the mud out but i found a bigger issue. It seems that the water jack have built up considerable amounts of rust and was restricting water flow, although it never overheated. Well i decided to flip the motor and check the bearings only to find when the head went it sucked the oil out of the motor long enough to cause some damage to the bearings. Some scoring to the main and rod bearings. So I decided to take it to machine shop dropped off the block was given a parts list needed to rebuild the motor. the following week he called an told me the block was cracked jus like in your picture. he asked did it leak i said no never! Since there is very little pressure in an open cooling system he offered to stitch weld the block where you drill both ends of the block and add the tabs across the crack then weld it keeping the crack from expanding. For me this would not be an option because after seeing the rust and sand issue i was investing in a closed loop cooling system. I went and found a truck engine block with the same casting number and dropped at at the machine shop. The only difference is i now need an electric fuel pump. i didn't want to pay to drill the rod hole and screw holes for a mechanical pump. So in the end you can weld it ind it may hold because it is low pressure but i would look into why it cracked in the first place.In my case i would bet my block had so much debris in it even though i winterized it there was sand and water that froze cracking the block.
  13. If i'm not mistaken you can send them a template of you transom and they will cut a panel for you
  14. There are many products on the market that will work but first and foremost is preparation. Dirty metal or too smooth nothing will adhere to it and will fail over time. If possible clan out the inside of the boar and fill it with water go under the boat and mark every place you see water dripping out. Rivets can be tapped tighter but that is hit or miss. I you find a seam that is leaking you will have to clean the seam with a pressure washer to remove the dirt etc. scuffing the metal with wire wheel or sand paper then wiping with acetone will prep the surface to bond any of the above items. Cabelas sells a green stick looks like plastic you use a propane torch on the area heat it and the stick wipe it over the rivet or crack and it will last years. There is another product on Ebay Ultrafuse Aluminum Repair 25 rods which will solder the leaks. Please keep in mind if you shortcut prep no matter what people tell you work al will fail.
  15. That is correct. it connects to the rudder feedback on the NAC-1 Box. Smart actually. the gear is driven by the steering measuring the wheel position, given during setup it knows how far right and left it can move you do not need a separate device to detect position. the only problem would be having a sloppy cable would give you undesired results. This is the simplest and least expensive Autopilot setup i have found. pair this with a Motorguide XI5 trolling motor you would be set. Trolling motor will hold( anchor) your position or navigate just like your main motor. Lowrance just came out with the Ghost trolling motor however i is fresh water only. 24 or 36v at the flip of a switch with builtin auto pilot features
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