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dbitting

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Everything posted by dbitting

  1. I just recent spent this season trying to find the correct prop for my rig. I recently completely had my 4.3l rebuilt and swapped my OMC drive to an Alpha 1 Gen 2 unit. with that said there was no prop with the new unit so i started with the old OMC prop that was on the old drive. 15x17 was my starting point. i recorded my speed and WOT rpm then went to that same site. I found the dry weigh of my boat and entered in all the information. I think the initial. recommendation was a 14x17 if i remember however it was not even close is wa at the MAX RPM of the engine recommended by the builder at WOT and on plain. OMC recommend the WOT should be at 4600 rpm. for every inch in pitch the rpm decreases about 150 rpm for every inch of diameter the rpms should decrease 500rpm. I found there are way too many factors to follow a chart. I suggest weighing the boat empty first then add all your gear you normally would put in on a trip add in the weight persons on board on a normal trip and tune the boat with that weight on at time of testing. You boat will perform different when your are alon than when 4 people are onboard. props are give and take, you cannot have a holeshote and ttop speed at the same time. In my case I started at a 14x17 and went all the way up to a 14x 21 and finally settled in at a 14x19. Turning Point recommended the 14x21 but it just didn't work the way i liked. I went with the 4 blade aluminium basically i wanted the 4 blade torque to have punch in the waves on the ocean however i didn't want to give up a bunch of top end. I didnt even venture into SS props as i am know to tear up several per season. this summer alone i had 3 strikes on my blades that i never saw the submerged objects 2 I felt as i passed over them but the 3rd may have been a sea creature as the blade was trashed but no signs of impact wothe the normal hard object. I fish river where they are tidal waters and the amount of [email protected]#t floating is amazing. In the end i settled with a TP Hustler 4 blade 14x19 prop the plains quickly and i still can get 30 to 34mph top speed at 4600RPM WOT properly trimmed. BTW the prop calculator indicated a top speed of 45MPH LOL not even close! I hope this hepls
  2. great videos. I would recommend COOSA Board for your project if you are tearing the boat down this far. with 2 layers of fiberglass on each side of the boards altering the weave you could gain so much strength and reduce weight at the same time while making that boat impervious to water. it is a bit more money but i think easier to work with. This product will hold no water, never rots. there are videos on youtube ( boatworks today) that show how he used it to make his side panels and transom. I did my transom this year with it and it worked out great. if you are replacing the flotation foam find the highst density closed cell foam available and you will also eliminate water soaking it. Ebay has ost of the fiberglass and foam needs. I can send you the info from where i purchased what i used.
  3. a bit old to answer but YES it works. for your boat you will have to modify the panel to your cuddy, i built a box around the opening and mounted the electronics in the box inside the cuddy it works great simple to install $1300 for AP
  4. I use 1 hds 9 for navigation and autopilot and the other for sonar except my split is horizontal as i fish bottom.
  5. Are you planning Autopilot in the future? if so look at Lowrance as they offer the cheapest package for adding autopilot ( outboard and Motorguide xi5) the trolling motor offers anchor lock I bought 2 HDS9 Carbons. GPS antenna integrated Audio networking and autopilot ( cable steering) $4500 last year. This is more that you are looking for but i started with that question and was very disappointed quickly at the small screen. too much information ti fit sonar and chart on at the same time. I will say if Hummingbird had a reasonable Autopilot that would have been my first choice. their screens are really clear and offer mega imaging SSandDI
  6. When you are ready I want to be your exclusive PA dealer
  7. I use the HDS 9 Dual screen with an 83/200HD and a total scan transducer.My setup y has the capability to connect up 4 transducers, however currently i only use two and mosty this year the side and downscan 455KHZ I can say when you learn how to set up the SS/DS and get to know how to use it. fish finding has a whole new meaning. as mentioned th 50,83 and 200 have a cone that projects out and gets larger as you get deeper, however the 455/800 SS and DI create a SLICE behind your boat to the left and right of the stern creating a picture of the water column and the bottom. When ou find something like bate or marks you simply touch it press the flag and create WP. for me i then create a rout and use my autopilot to troll wher i think the fish are. Lowrance has a new LIVE IMAGE transducer but it is pricey $999 i think it is.
  8. is there flotation foam under the seat for buoyancy?
  9. good choice. their support is great also. i boight a OMC to Alpha conversion before i realized i needed a transom replacement. i had an Alpha1 gen1 drive but didn't read the requirements. the conversion was foe the Gen 2 drive sadly if i had known i had all i needed to put the gen 1 drive in instead purchased a used gen 2 drive. works good but have water in system like you have. I will fix it after striper Fall season. My OMC drive had a noise in drive. I decided to check it while i was having my new 4.3L motor built. Still working through fuel issues but the boat is great now
  10. If you can afford it i would get the replacement depending on how many hours are on your current unit. $900 is a small price to pay, $300 per year, to know it wont' be your headache. If you pay someone to reseal the unit and he missed a failing bearing or gear you may have to pay the same amount and more to replace defective or worn parts. In the end the remaned unit with a warranty would serve you better. I went down that path and it was more expensive than replacing it with a remanufactured or new unit. You can search my posts and see what i went through. You could also replace the oils and save up for the replacement or even repm=ace the oil after several trips till the end of the season then get a manual and tear it down yourself. Seal kits are cheap. its the time and experience you are paying for. I have the same thing on an out drive i bought used this season where the oil is milky but can't seem to find the point where the water enters the unit. The upper and lower units are joined and share the oil however there is no oil leaking on my driveway while it is out of the water. For Now i just change the oil after 2 days out on the water and will deal with it over the winter downtime.
  11. use a level on your rail when you are on the water when you put the boat on the trailer adjust the trailer so the boat is at the same attitude then set you transducer level. this should give you the proper setting
  12. the issue with the manual switch is human error. if you forget to switch to all the house battery wont be charged. if you draw on both house and start batteries and have the switch on one and draw both batteries down you may not have enough to start the motor. the bluesea switch and acr is the way to go. flip the switch on and the relay monitors the voltage the correct switch would give the option to join both batteries in an emergency. it is a nice system installed correctly.
  13. they are following C-Map. now they look the same
  14. I have a Lowrance system in mine and i love it. for the money its the best bang for the buck. I also have a Penn Yen very similar to yours wher i just completed a drive line replacement and last season complete Lowrance HDS 9 system. Nmea 2000 network, trim tab, fuel audio, gps antenna, autopilot and fuel monitoring.
  15. i took a half day off yesterday and went to the river. the wind was crazy but i pushed on. the boat ran great i just have to adjust the sift cable and fix the idle screw keeps backing out. i was impressed i managed 30.9 mph with strong wind in my face and going against the tide back to dock. currently i have a 14 x 18 prop on but the recommended size is a 14 x 21. the 14 x 21 should bring the rpm down to 4600 rpm instead of 5000 rpm at wot. i have a ss quicksilver 14 x 21 prop but wanted to replace the hub, arriving friday.
  16. First off Bob no worries Everyone has an opinion and your comments are appreciated. First id like to say this was never my plan to make this kind of investment. i only found out later the seller want completely honest when o purchased it. The season after i bought the boat i fitted the boat with $4500 in. electronics that included autopilot and 2- HDS-Carbon displays with all the bells and whistles. the next year the motor lost a cylinder. Im committed so i replace the head at the end of the season my friend suched sand into the block. pulled the motor to remove the freeze plugs and flush the motor. while flushing it i decided to flip it and remove the pan to check the condition of the motor, turns out it needed to be rebuilt. Took it to a machine shop and after ordering the parts to rebuild it and already machined the crank did we find the block qwas cracked 4 inches just below the head deck. It never leaked water. I found another block and completed the rebuild. the story is listed at the initial post but i am committed because i like the boat and have already invested well more than the boat was worth. I don't regret the investment however if i knew i was replacing the motor and drive this year i would have sold it. Since i fish the ocean and often alone i wanted something i know is solid without spending $45k on a new boat. i have no plans of getting rid of the boat. i know what i now have. It may not be new or look new but i will feel confident if what i have invested in her. any used boat out there will need lots of work because most don't pay attention to detail and many owners don't know how to properly maintain them. You mentioned Outboard vs sterndrives, now that i owned a sterndrive i would agree outboard has their advantages especially if fishing into the cold weather season. now that i added closed loop cooling i can extend my season into December Its simple if you have a hobby and are not spending money there is something wrong, some cost more than others. If i thought about the money i would sit home and drink, it is cheaper! Hunting, Golf, Motorcycles, Classic Cars all are expensive hobbies. Boats are no different. Thank you for you comments
  17. 1 OMC Lower unit Seal kit 1 OMC upper unit seal kit 1OMC Gimble to drive gasket 1 SEI106 (alpha 1 gen 1) upper drive unit(never ran) 1 SEI106 Lower Unit (alpha 1 gen 1) (never ran) 1 1975 is Ford 5.8l 233 hp complete engine(runs) OMC Cobra 89' gear set 4.3l also misc parts and lower unit (Works but selling as parts) upper housing disassembled so parting out. 1 Transom assembly complete but disassembled for cleaning and rebuilding pics and prices will be provided if interested.
  18. Its been a while since i updated but here we are. the motor is in, closed cooling installed. I did run into an issue with the conversion kit from OMC to Alpha1. failure to reed the requirements. I thought the out drive i already had was correct however when i got it from the garage it didn't fit. i called SEI and they said i needed Gen2 i had a Gen1. i had to find another out drive. installed an gen2 drive and broke the motor in on land. going to try getting on a like this week and test props as now the drive has changed. I have OMC drive parts and a complete, new SEI 106 gen1 Alpha1 drive unit if anyone is interested. in fact i have Ford 5.8l and Gimble, drive unit if someone is in need of power plant. motor ran when removed form boat. its stored in my workshop. never ran SEI106 drive. motor is 233 hp 1975 ish block was replaced because it cracked. thats all i know. it ran when i removed it. pics and price can be provided if interested. 61021601099__C06A5960-C5EF-4B9A-A097-BF0A6D29B1DC.MOV
  19. ok thanks if you find it send me a pic please
  20. You are correct the 4.3l will take SBC mounting components and you are also correct about the mounting holes in the head. when i went to the electric fuel pump i had to make a bracket to mount the filter and pump assembly in the original location, however the hole in the head was missing. i have a complete assembly for a serp belt from a S10 blazer v6 but the brackets are huge and include AC so that is why i put that upgrade off. the brackets are bulky. i also looked at Summit Racing for a drive kit and they are way too much to justify the cost. In weighing the wants and needs if the boat i decided to just keep the vbelt config. since i am confined to work form home i have limited time to work in the boat and weather is hit n miss right now. I get a few hours a week and. the weekend to work on the boat. Sunday i created a lift to attach an atv winch to lift the motor back in. in lifting the beam i made a mistake and all my drilling and bolting the beams together failed because i pulled on end out and all the weight ripped the bolted end apart. I managed to get the beams back up in place just lower than i initially wanted them. i have to add supports to handle the vertical load of the motor and will be ready to drop it in place. kinda at a standstill until i get the motor in. the closed cooling system did not include the cooling hoses soi have to mount the mounting bracket in a location i desire then figure out hose routing. The upper and lower cooling hoses to the motor are the issue the pump hose and hose to risers are simple 1 and 3/4 heater hoses. i am going to order silicone hose once i know the length.
  21. I was looking at that but couldn't find what i needed. i have the crank, ps pump and alt pullies from a truck motor but no idler or tensioner pulley and brackets There is enough room to do that replacement after the motor is back in the boat. this was an unexpected project and funds are running low. If i didnt already have an Alpha 1 drive in my garage from another boat we were going to repair this would be sitting this season. At this time i think i can only access the Delaware river tidal waters and travel south to the bay. I have not confirmed yet but covid-19 has put a damper on boat access
  22. I looked too before i posted the 3d print option
  23. You may wonder why not just change all over to Alpha1. i didn't want to change the hydraulics and steering assembly at this time. 2 1100 gph bilge pumps under motor with independent breakers and switches wired to different batteries, Since NJ is closed and only one person per boat gives me more time to finish things right. Stripers will probable be North of me before this Covid-19 BS is over
  24. UPDATE turns out like any other project it gets bigger than expected. While cleaning up the outdrive i decided to look for a noise the unit had when trimmed up. disassembled the upper unit discovered a bearing took a **** and in turn took out a shaft with splines in the lower unit. I decided i was not going to fix it but convert to Alpha1 on anOMC gimble conversion. I purchased a new unit cleaned epoxied and painted the new unit all new seals and bearings. i gutted the transom where the drive mounted, i installed Coosaboard laid a fiberglass layer between the old fiberglass and the new boad left that dry then shaped the coosaboard and placed 3 layers of 1708 over the inside. i installed the new transom mount with the conversion kit to accept the alpha 1 drive. Also had to replace the shift/ throttle to change cable direction. spent several hours cleaning up wiring, added 2 new blowers and hoses. epoxied a removable bilge assembly. installed new drain plug assembly that retains the plug. hopefully i can place the motor and get the closed cooling system figured out. i will post more pics when i get them from my phone
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