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Everything posted by sstout

  1. This warm weather has me thinking spring. I would like to add another line and rod to my set up. Just looking for some advice. My current set up is really basic. I have a 16 ft boat and usually fish by myself. I run two downriggers with sliders, one on each side of the boat. Sometimes straight out the back I run a dipsy rod. It's an old downrigger rod and old reel with braid. I don't use it that much, and havnt ever caught anything on it. For a third rod straight out the back, would it be better to invest in a better dipsy rod set up, or run a lead core or something. The depth of the dipsy depends on what the rest of the spread is. The only problem with running it shallow is that it's not that far behind the boat. Thanks for any advice. Here's a pic of the back of the boat.
  2. Nice choice. One word of advice on the gluvit: it takes two or 3 coats. When I ordered mine I didnt read that, put one coat on and figured out I had to do another couple more. Then realized I didnt have enough gluvit, so had to wait a couple days to get more.
  3. A couple pics of calm, warm mornings
  4. That's a great point. My foam was so waterlogged. Especially in the center of the boat where the water sat. And I found the suprise that the foam had been chewed by mice. Must have been from the previous owner since I know I didnt have any mice in the past years I have owned it. I left a channel under the new foam for water to flow if need be and used the pink insulation foam from home depot. Its closed cell so shouldn't soak up any water. In the end it was alot of work to gut it, but totally worth it. It's all new from the aluminum up, and should last a long long time. And I could address the leaks from both the inside and the outside.
  5. Here's a couple pics of the prep for gluvit and then the actual gluvit on the seams. It's the yellowish looking stuff on the seams and rivets in the second pic. I took the stringers out for sanding and then re revetted them back in. Year 1 was great. We will see how long the gluvit holds for
  6. I have a 1976 starcraft that was leaking pretty bad. This past spring I completely gutted everything, floor, flotation foam etc. I sanded the entire inside of the boat to bare aluminum. I re-set a few rivets that appeard a little loose, and used some JB Weld on one that was missing a head. I used 2 coats of gluvit on all the seams and rivets on the inside. Then put all new floor etc back in. I sealed all bolts in the transom with 5200 so that wasnt suspect either. Afterwords it's great. Barely leaks. The bilge barely sucks up any water after a 6 hour trip. I moored it for a week this summer and only pumped the bilge once. Not too shabby for a '76. Have you looked at gluvit? Checked the rivets to see if any look loose or twisted or anything? I layed for hours under my boat on the trailer going rivet by rivet. What does the transom look like as far as old bolts etc going through?
  7. It's funny looking back at this. I posted this topic 3 years ago. I ended up choosing a garmin echomap 53cv. After three seasons it's been awesome. The graph has great detail and the gps with mapping is great. I've been 8 miles offshore in lake O on a calm day and to have the GPS has made it really easy. I'm definitely a garmin fan now.
  8. I second that. When I did my transom and then my floor, I used marine grade plywood. Then I soaked it in 3 coats front, back, and sides with penetrating epoxy from totalboat. In the case of the transom both sheets were coated, then glued together to get the thickness, then the edges touched up with more epoxy. I could only imagine how long that coated marine ply will last. Probably longer than anyone will have the boat, even after me.
  9. When I replaced the transom in my starcraft it was only bolted in. Remove the old screws on the splashwell (it's an outboard), remove the ones threw the transom and the old rotten one slid right out. I then pieced that together to make a template for the new one. Granted my starcraft is only 16ft, so alot smaller. That coosboard looks interesting. Post some pics of how it's coming along.
  10. Fish307 has plazma flutter spoons buy 2 get 3 free. They are basically a sutton knock off. I like to bend them a little for a little more action. Just ordered 5 spoons for 12$. Free shipping too
  11. The tiller handle still works, atleast in my experience. My motor still has the tiller handle hooked up and the servo turns just fine. The tiller handle is still fully functional. That being said, I never touch the tiller handle. I love the controlking but it is wired. I put the motor in neutral, start it, and then once I put it in gear to set my lines I run everything off the controlking. For me it's not a big deal that it's at the front of the boat. If its choppy and I'm fishing solo I have to tend to the steering wheel while setting lines anyway. I usually set my speed to slow with the controlking, set my lines, then go sit and increase my speed to the desired speed and steer. It would be slick if it was wireless and had a remote, but it's really not bad being wired. When a fish hits, I turn the dial speed down to as slow as it goes on the controlking to slow down, land the fish, set the line, then go back upfront and increase the speed. Then if I'm fighting the fish and need to put the boat in neutral its already throttled all the way down. Sorry for the long response, it's hard to explain
  12. I second the four stroke comment. I have an 8hp tohatsu 4 stroke for a kicker, tied to the main with an ez steer rod. Then a controlking for throttle control upfront. Great combination. The four stroke 8 hp sips gas and is really quiet. It just purrs along. It also has electric start, and always fires right up. The other bonus I like with having an 8 horse is that if my main (60hp) does start and I'm way out, itll push my boat at a decent speed. I like it as a backup.
  13. I as well use the controlking. Very basic but does the job perfectly. 3 seasons and no issues. I was very intrigued by the itroll, but decided to keep things basic. The controlking is mounted on the right side of the console by where I rest my arm and the kicker is tied in with the main by an ez steer rod. I can rest my right arm on the armrest and reach the controlking and steering wheel. It's a great setup.
  14. That'll be a nice rig with a little work. Floors aren't too bad to do. I just gutted mine and re-did the floors this spring. One word of advice, no matter what you do with the floor (carpet or vinyl) coat the wood with epoxy first, both sides. And use marine grade wood. The epoxy will make it much more waterproof. I covered it with vinyl but that's just my preference. Here's a few pics from mine. Goodluck
  15. Ended up making the trip up yesterday. Launched out of Mexico and headed towards the SR. Blank screens in tight from 15 fow to 60 fow. A couple nice screens around 30 fow. No bites. Shot out to 160 and headed north. 5 mins after putting the rods in the one at 80 fires. I grabbed it immediately but nothing was there. Didnt move another rod. Funny enough, when I was getting the boat packed up in 15 fow to the west of the launch channel I saw the best screens I've seen all day. I wish I started heading towards oswego vs. the SR. O well. It was an insanely beautiful morning even if no fish we caught.
  16. Plan is set, as long as the weather holds. Headed up to mexico saturday, sunday, and monday for one last push before I put the boat up. I'm thinking l start shallow in 10 to 20 fow with two boards and one downrigger over by the mouth of the SR. Then work my way out. If the lake lays down one of the days I might shoot out to 150 or so and head north. Here's to hoping anyway. I'll post what happens
  17. Yeah. It looks like maybe itll lay down Saturday and sunday mornings. We will see. I'll probably just stick way shallow and run a brown program in close.
  18. I'm thinking of making a few last trips up to lake O this coming weekend as long as the south wind holds. I've never fished this time of year up there. I'd be launching from Mexico and probably headed towards the salmon river. Looking to target anything that bites..browns, steelhead, late kings. So, where would you start? 15 ft of water with planers? Deeper? If the inshore bite isnt good how deep for steelhead? 100ft, 200ft? Just looking for a starting point to atleast make sure I'm in the right ballpark. Thanks
  19. J.D Nice rig. Looks like mine, just 20 years newer. I like the full enclosure
  20. I fish all over out of a 16ft starcraft. It's usually just me, but sometimes my dad or a buddy comes. This year I've been on Cayuga, skaneatles, oneida, and ontario. Same as above. Pick your days. Its doable, but always have a back up plan and dont be afraid to run in if its pushing your limits. I have a 60hp merc two stroke and an 8 hp tohatsu kicker with a control king for the throttle and an ez steer off the main motor. Great setup for just about anything you want to do. Biggest thing with a smaller boat is really paying attention to the weather forcast and wind direction
  21. That's what I figured. Thanks for the responses. All I am really looking for is down speed, so an older unit would work just fine. It doesn't have to be anything fancy. I'll keep my eyes open during the winter. Thanks
  22. Does anyone have any experience using a luhr genson troll speed indicator? I have gps speed on my garmin, but I'm thinking this might give me an idea of what's going on below the surface? My hope was to pair this with a fish hawk td to get the temp ranges and atleast an idea of lure speed. Between the fish hawk td, lure speed, and gps speed it might get me a little closer than I am right now. A fish hawk x4 is just not in my budget right now. Thanks
  23. 👍 great. Thank you. Now if we can get some nice days before the end of october and the boat being put up, I'll give it a shot
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