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  1. Static build up could be coming from 1 of 2 spots. It could be in the tubes or it actually could be in the powder. There really is not a clean way to get rid of it since you would need to keep the static from building once you have packed the tubes anyway. in the offseason you can try to pack them in the anti static bags from electrical or computer gear or you can try to do the water/fabric softener solution wash after season and then leave them out to dry but I am not one to add more chemicals to the volume measured powder that you are using. The amount of powder that is stuck in the tube is not going to manipulate the performance of the sabot enough to worry about.
  2. My area has been hit quite hard with poachers... Found 2 bucks and 4 does dead from gunshot wounds on the property yesterday... all were vital hits and all were left laying with no effort to recover.... Man I hate that. Let the farmers/owners know and we had DEC all over this one. I have yet to even pull the gun up on a deer at this point.
  3. That is 1 event that I miss from my childhood. I would head down to the slag piles and hunt the brush for bunnies... Limited everytime.
  4. Legacy - Just want you to be aware that the plastic on those is a bit harder and have been known to crack if you use the charger as a sabot starter. The cold seems to really do a number on them and I have personally cracked 3 before. Great charger carrier and you can even get away with a horn just in case Just keep your sabot starter with you....
  5. Federal Coppers worked the best out of mine, Remington accu-tips were a very close 2nd but I opted to get 2 sleeves of the federals... 2 3/4 were way more consistent than the 3 inch.
  6. Thanks for the confirmation Gator..... My text reads 24 pt non typical and live weight 244... That would have had me shaking in the treestand this year if it came across the orchard...
  7. Guys, last night I got a text with a picture from a very reliable friend that another HUGE buck was taken out by a truck in the Brockport area. Has anyone else heard of this yet? I am not one to continue to spreading false facts, but someone did pick it up and bring it back to their barn. Not sure if this is the person who hit it but I am not seeing a police carcass tag which is why I am questioning. The pics show that it really took some damage (I would hate to see the truck too).
  8. It does. Remington 700 action (pre 1980 and fixed for safety issue) with everything else a custom build with a Timney trigger from Robert Hart. I am getting touching holes all the way out to 200 with the Speer Softpoint boat tails 120 Gn. I can get 2900+ from a max load of H4831 with 50 grains, but my most accurate is 44.0 gn of IMR4350, which is pushing 2800-2825 fps. More than enough speed and the farthest any deer has gone was 6 steps. I have played around with a bunch of bullets and so far the only ones that I have not tried were the all copper ones. My biggest pain a few years ago was that the bullets that I have been using were basically separating. Then I got my hands on some Speer hot-cores. No more separation, then I used those up and had to go back to the soft points because that was all I had. Then I stumbled into the Hornady Interlocks at either 115 or 117 gn and those were just as accurate as the Hot Cores with a small modification to my powder charge. Now the question will be do they stay together.... I have a few boxes of Swift A-frames that I like the performance on, but I am thinking that they are not going to open and deliver the shock that I want, and the Speer Big games are not as accurate as I would like out to 300 -350 yards. I do have shots out that far since I am in a box and hunting apple orchards on a bench from an elevated position so longer shots out to 350 are common. Anything farther than that, I won't take. Not because I won't be accurate, but I want that animal to expire fast. I owe it to the animal and to myself to make the cleanest most accurate shot I possibly can.
  9. Federal Copper Premiums worked the best out of my 220.
  10. The only downfall that I can come up with is that I rarely use the 220 anymore since the county I hunt in went to rifle. Now the only hard choice I have is the 7mm08 vs 257 Roberts Ackley Improved 40 deg....
  11. I have the 220 with the leupold muzzleloader scope on mine and I love it. The reason for the choice was 1 standardizing on 1 scope/1 brand/1 model and the durability. If 1 ever fails I can move the other over. My muzzleloader is the CVA Optima. All of my other rifles have an older Zeiss Conquest on them. The same model and size for all... I like to have consistency.
  12. I have to agree with DJ 17 on his comments. There are a ton of options out there, but the things to look at are 1. What am I looking to harvest with this rifle 2. can I do it effectively without destroying the meat or wounding the animal thus making it suffer, 3. If I get this caliber, can I find ammunition for it, and 4 Can I carry it without wanting to use it as a walking stick because the damn thing is too heavy/light? I use a 257 Roberts Ackley Improved 40 Degree. Little to no recoil, the gun is built on a Rem 700 Action with a custom Hart Barrel and stock to fit me. I'd put it up against anything out there out to 400 yards. I have the luxury of being able to reload all my bullets so this is dialed in. Downfall - all ammo is reloaded so I can't just walk in and pick up a box for a true wildcat round. If there had to be 1 caliber for all N.A. Game, I'd go with a 30-06 only due to the fact that you can load 200/220 gn or greater for moose and bear, or dial it back to 165 gn and decrease your powder charge for whitetail, Coues and Mule deer.... 270 is another great option here as well, but I think that you might have a slightly more reload options with the 30-06....
  13. Normal activity.... My neighbor had his chrome bumper being attacked on 4 different occasions last spring. While doing a bit of shed hunting on a farm I walked out to find my gator being molested by 2 jakes a few years ago.....
  14. Jim, Based on the looks of the flies you seem to have started to perfect the art of the fly for trolling. I will give you 1 suggestion that has taken it up another level for me. When you tie the flash on to the tube (let's say that you are doing so right handed) so the flash is being tied in on the right side and laying flat towards the left.... If you use less flash and tie it in backwards with the tie in point or thread on the left side of the tube and the ends of the flash to the right you will actually get a bigger profile in the water and have to use less flash to achieve the same idea. Basically using the material to almost fold over itself in the water (same idea as a skirt on a buzz bait) Your pics seem to show very good color and flash combos but at the same time you can achieve this with a larger profile in the water and even less fouling if you "tie it all in backwards. Give it a shot and see if you see any improvements.
  15. sportoptics.com riflescopes.com opticsplanet.com
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