TrophySeeker

Anyone here use Regal Canvas before? Any comments good or bad? I'm finally getting around to getting an enclosure made for the hardtop I added a couple of years ago. I had planned to use AquaSun, but apparently Tony is the only one there that can talk to me, and I have called for him every few weeks since May with no callback to date, so I will be taking my business elsewhere. Thanks for your input.

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See - I told you I was dumb. I didn't even think about bringing a rigger up without a fish. In my little imaginary world that never happens...

Fish307.com for Cannon parts. http://www.fish307.com/index.asp?PageAc ... rodID=9629

"the trick to it is to bring the down rigger up with the line still in the release" I must be dumber than %&$# today. How or why would you keep the fish from tripping the release? You basically use the downrigger as your reel? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of enjoying the fight?

Tank, I've had the opposite problem. I would typically get hits on the cheater, usually a steelhead. A six foot cheater line can get pretty tangled with the flasher fly. At least it did for me. I fish alone about 1/2 the time, so I need to be creative to get as many baits in the water as possible. The Flasher/Fly w/cheater spoon took fish, but made a heck of a mess. I now stick with spoons only when using sliders (cheaters).

Have you has success cheating a spoon above a flasher/fly? I only tried that once, and had enough tangles not to try it again.

Just the Mag10 left. Some have asked for pictures.

John, The Blacks release has a clip built in. The probe can be removed after each trip. A 10-32 stainless bolt just fits through the opening. As Tom mentioned, you WILL get tangles if your release is below the probe (I did anyway). Also, the release is easier to reach if it is above the probe. My .02 anyway.

I'm with Yankee on this one. I terminated to a Black's release and also have a few knicks in the coated cable and have never lost my signal, even down past 130'. I'm even on my second year with my 9v battery. You may want to look at the RCA connections between the pick-up and the cable that runs to the head unit, or the connection of the cable to the head unit. The DR has been rock solid for me as well.

Nope - the loop is to allow a ring terminal to be crimped on the end of the wire and put under the nut of the bolt holding the klincher or the black's release. The klincher release is the same that you would use on your non-probe riggers.

Probably should have noted that I terminated directly to a Black's release instead of a snap (as above - picture from GLA). In my opinion, it is important to have the release above the probe. Terminating to a Black's keeps the conductive material to a minimum. Since then I have switched to Scotty pinch-pad releases. The shaft of the Black's give me a great spot to hook the snap of the Scotty's.

Try this: I made my loop much shorter.

Hey Tom - doesn't look like you're under-charging anymore? We ran west to Braddocks Point and set up inside to try to pick a few browns. Could only manage 1, so moved out for kings. We did manage 6 kings, sounds like they were about the same size as yours. Found the thermocline got skinnier as we moved back east. Called it a morning at about 11.

Bump

Well I just had to replace the regulator/rectifier on my 9.9 kicker, so I can tell you that using your electronics and riggers will definately drain your battery pretty quickly. Like most everyone else, I run my FF, chartplotter, Depth Raider, VHF and stereo while trolling; along with the riggers. I made a few trips without a charging system, and my voltage would drop down to about 10V (monitored this on my FF display) after a half day of trolling. As Jekyll mentioned, I do have an A/B/Both battery selector. The main motor wouldn't start on the battery I used trolling, so I had to switch over to the other. My batteries are new group 24 batteries. If you have larger group 27 batteries you may get more time. I would definately recommend a battery switch or a seperate isolated battery for starting the main motor.

Easy there big fella. Lots of looks and no replies doesn't mean no one wants to help. This topic has been discussed in great detail recently. I used the search function (top right) and found these topics for you (took about 1 minute): http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishin ... php?t=5075 http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishin ... hlight=gps http://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishin ... ht=fcv+620 For the record, this is the chartplotter and the FF I use: http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS. ... Archived=0 http://www.raymarine.com/ProductDetail. ... ODUCT=1709 Good luck with your search.

3 Mag 10's. 1 original Mag 10 metal body, and 2 Mag 10A's with plastic bodies. All 3 are in excellent condition and have the following: - Auto-Stop - Fixed 2' booms - Rear single rod holder - Mounting base with mounting bolts - Serviced in 2007 The 2 10A's have 200' cable and the Mag 10 has brand new 300' cable. They do NOT come with swivel bases. I also have (1) fixed 4' boom (has a couple dents) and (1) front-mount dual rod holder that is cracked but has been repaired. They can be thrown in if it will help. $260 each or all 3 for $750. Would prefer local (Rochester area), but can ship for $10 each. PM or call 585-739-7608.

B&E in Ontario had some last time I was there.

Hey Tom, I finally dug out my service manuals. Unfortunately they do not cover this model year. Wanted to reply to bump this topic up so one of the motor guys might reply. I did just have an undercharging problem (no charging actually) on my 9.9, and it turned out being the rectifier/regulator. I'm not sure what they used on your model. Those charging circuits are pretty simple. I bought the SELOC service manual for my motor and it has been pretty helpful. Good luck.

Mark, Thanks for your reply. My setup is a Johnson 9.9 4-Stroke with remote controls (see below). I need to use the bracket to raise and lower the motor. I also tilt the motor to an extended shallow water drive (I extened it) with the bracket up so it clears the water. I used to use the tilt position but I broke the motor's tilt bracket running in rough seas with the motor bouncing up and down. I have no trouble accessing the lever on the bracket for raising and lowering. The biggest problem, as I mentioned, is pushing the motor down (when it is down) to release the mechanism. By the time I am ready to raise the kicker the boat has usually turned such that waves are breaking into the motor well where I need to put a foot to reach it.

Hey guys, Is anyone out there using this OMC Kicker Bracket: The bracket works fine, but I've never figured out a great way to raise the motor after trolling. The bracket requires that you push down on the motor to release the mechanism. This is fine in calm waters, but it requires I lean WAY out to release. In rough water I usually get a very wet foot (one foot in motor well). Haven't fallen out yet. Someone here must have figured out a good way to release. Getting it to lock in the down position is a little easier, but wouldn't mind suggestions for that either. Thanks for yor help.

Yea - i wish it was that easy. All 3 of my releases came on the free slider on my shallow rigger (out by myself, so only 2 rods). Probably wary steelheads.

Rob, Change "1 release 0 fish" on your report to 3 releases 0 fish, and you will have my report for 6-25.

Well, I held this for a guy for a couple of weeks and he didn't show. So, it is still for sale. I'm also throwing in a Magellan handheld GPS with mount, an anchor, and can also throw in some spinning rods and reels for a new fisherman. Make an offer. I'll be out of the area until after Memorial Day.