rusty1034

Thanks ski-dooz. What’s a 4/2 shutdown ? Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

I’m gonna disagree on the 150. I had a 2006 196 Fishmaster that I loved. It had a 115 4 stroke that would push the boat at 32mph, and would troll down to 1.8 mph with out bags. Now I have a 2012 196 Fishmaster with a 150 and a 9.9 kicker. The boat is so stern heavy that I have to fill the bow livewell just to get the bow down enough to,track semi-straight. The oversized prop on this motor contributes to its lack of proper performance. Going back to a 17” prop is on the list. I’m not in a race, and I’m not trying to pull anyone up on skis. The smaller motor makes the boat much more efficient, and user friendly. Rusty Thanks- Rusty

http://billysmtolures.com/ Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Thanks Alumacraft and Hank. I went patiently through the dockside wizard. When the motor turned starboard, and the screen asked “ did the rudder turn port? “ ,I selected “no”. The next screen ( which I never noticed before) asked “did it turn starboard”. I selected yes. SIMPLE ! It seems to work correctly now. Thanks to the help from all y’all. Hopefully I’ll have a fish picture to show soon ! Rusty Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

I changed the setting to “ Calibration lock = off”. I did a factory reset, and then towedthe boat around on the trailer for 20 min. That got the Compass deviation down to 9, which is pretty good. The issue now is that during the portion of the Dockside Wizard (3.5), titled ‘Checking the rudder drive’, in which the unit is supposed to turn the rudder port and then starboard. During this test it first asks “did the rudder turn to the port ?”. As far as I can tell, the ‘ rudder’ ,meaning the outboard motor ,turns to the starboard (right side of the boat if I’m facing the bow). I guess it’s time for post on the Raymarine tech forum. Thanks for all the help. Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

Thanks Brian and Frogger, The killer with this is that it’s not a new install. It was put in by Hank in either ‘17 or ‘16. A beautiful job I might add The unit was working great until a couple of weeks ago when the positive connection to the battery became loose enough for the unit to loose power. I will check the compass, but I’m pretty sure that hasn’t moved. Since the unit worked well prior to it loosing power, I’m of the belief that the compass is in an acceptable location. The gray computer box is mounted in the glove box. When I looked yesterday, it appeared as if the green light was not on. I dismounted the Wall it was attached to so that I could access the wiring and check voltage. The multimeter says everything is getting the proper juice. After getting a better look at the light on the Grey box, I could see that it was on. I did a factory reset , dockside wizard and sea trail yesterday while on the water. The unit wouldn’t ‘linearize’. 90 mins on the water, lots of turns etc. I even went so far as to leave the unit on while I trailered the boat home, still showing not lineraized. I did a compass restart, It reads "Max deviation =188* When I check the "compass deviation indicator" as per directions, it reads "---". According to directions that means that linearization has not successfully completed yet. After looking at some notes I took regarding the settings of the unit, I see that - Compass lock = off Calibration lock = on Perhaps the calibration lock is the issue. I'll let you know. Thanks again- Rusty Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

Thanks dawg. That reading was across the fuse holder with the fuse removed. I didn’t test the fuse other than a visual check- looks good. After looking closely, I can see the blinking red and green LED light on the control unit. It’s much more dim than I would have thought. Right now I’m going to say it is user error for not all of the 74 settings correct. Perhaps I should say it’s Raymarine error for not publishing a user friendly manual. Heading back to the water now. Thanks again for the help Rusty Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

The pump is working and the display is working. When I am under power and switch to the auto mode, it will not hold course, and turns hard starboard. I did some googling and it appears as if there is supposed to be a green l e d light on the grey box controller unit. There is no green light on mine. I checked the 10a fuse inside the controller box- looks good. I tested voltage to the box, just under 13v. When I test voltage across the internal fuse holder- 9.9v. Thanks for asking Rusty

Mine is not working correctly, and I’m no good with electronics. Can any of y’all recommend someone to,take a look ? Thanks- Rusty

Fishing, drone footage and AC/DC. Awesome. Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

Good job Pete ! You deserve a giant like that. Jigging is a great, undiscovered way to catch Lakers. Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United

That’s a good question, probably Hank from L&M can answer it better than I. I do believe there is a hydraulic pump that is included with the Raymarine unit. They come in different sizes. The one I use works when the main motor is shut off, and the kicker is on. Great unit for the solo fisherman. The Raymarine can also be connected to a certain brand of GPS unit, not sure which one. By connecting it to the GPS, you can troll in several different ‘patterns’, S pattern, figure eight, circle, to various waypoints, pretty robust unit. I just use it to go in a straight line while I’m setting gear, or am fortunate enough to have to reel in a fish. Sent from my iPad using Lake Ontario United mobile app

I had a Raymarine unit put on last year. Loving it so far. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Ditto. He did my Raymarine autopilot last year on a Fishmaster. Quality work. Thanks- Rusty