mudflat

I am assuming that when you refer to a x400 you really mean a Fish Hawk X4 or X4D ? I run an Airmar B60 50/200, which is the thru hull version of the P66, and a X4 together on my boat and have never seen any interference between them. I'm usually running both 50 and 200 kHz on a split screen. I also have a Lowrance 83/200kHz transducer that is mounted only 5" away from the Fish Hawk and I will occasionally run it at 83kHz with no problems. I will see cross talk interference on my HDS units if I run both transducers at 200khz together but still not have any problems with the Fish Hawk. I do have the Fish Hawk transducer mounted higher on the transom than the 83/200 so that it is a little above the bottom of the boat and it is not causing turbulence when I'm on plane

If it's from NOAA - double it If it's from a fisherman's report - cut it in half

Here are a few possibilities depending on what you're looking for Wickham House Inn: 315-483-6758 Reel Inn: 315-483-9600 Bay Bridge: https://baybridgesportshop.com/rooms Sodus Point Lodge: http://www.asoduspointlodge.com/ Carriage House B&B http://www.carriage-house-inn.com/rates/

I'll take it send me a pm with payment info

Try Fish 307 https://www.fish307.com/cannon-downrigger-part-2286792-switch-shortstop-3-prong/

I used 30's for my wire divers for a couple years and was never comfortable with the line counter on my wrist. I tried a couple 40's set up with 300yds of 30lb Sea Flea for my riggers and found the line counter was high enough that it didn't bother my wrist. Last year I spooled up a couple more 40's with some backing and 30lb wire and started using my 30's for 20lb wire. It seems everybody on my boat prefers the 40's. The gear ratio's aren't that much different but the 30's pickup 35" of line while the 40's are 47.2" due to the larger spool diameter. Both reels are real smooth and it comes down to a personal preference. Still like the old Sealine LCA's with the line counter on top

I'll take the dipsy wraps if they're not already sold Let me know

Aw, Hank gets all the fun

That's the one, you would also need the 9 pin to 7 pin cable adapter to connect it to your HDS. This is fun spending someone else's money, can I also come drill some holes in your new boat?

If you have any $ left over look at a Navico Xsonic TM150m transducer. With a Gen-3 this will give you medium chirp for about $300. With an ethernet network you can share transducers between your units. I'm adding one this year to go along with my B-60 50/200 thru hull, I think Wallyandre already has one, maybe he'll give us a review.

I'd also go with the Gen3 and if I had a couple grand in my budget I'd get 2 of them instead of the carbon, one for sonar and the other for charts/radar. Much easier to see a full screen from the back of the boat than having a split screen.

Sounds like common sense gained from a lifetime of working with a barn full of females, much lacking in today's world

Don't forget you will also need to set up a nema 2000 network You'll need a starter kit, some tees and cable - approx. $100 https://www.hodgesmarine.com/searchresults.asp?searching=Y&sort=5&search=starter kit &show=30&page=1

I'm no electronic expert so I had to learn the hard way, you need a heading sensor connected to a HDS to overlay radar on your chart. HDS unit have both NMEA 0183 and NMEA2000 networking. I would look at getting a Point 1 antennae which has a heading sensor built in and hook it up to a nmea 2000 network. This would probably improve your GPS at the same time and is also the least expensive heading sensor. I used a Simrad RC42 heading sensor before Lowrance came out with the Point 1 and it wasn't cheap but having the overlay makes your radar much easier to interpert and saves screen space on your HDS. I'm sure Hank can help you out with setting this up. If you want to see one in action I'll be slipped at Arney's sometime around mid April.

I ran several Smart Troll probes and a Fish Hawk X4 last year at the same time and didn't see and interference between them. The transducers are only 6" apart on the transom and I had no problems. You can't even compare a Smart Troll to an Fish hawk TD since the Smart Troll is giving you continuous real time data and the probes are so much smaller that they don't have much effect on your running depth. I still use my TD to give me an overview of the temperature layers in the water column for a starting point and it works great for that. I put the Smart Troll probes on my divers and junk lines to keep track of where they are, depth and temperature, all the time. Smart Troll advertises 300' range but I have had them on 400' divers and 500' coppers and received consistent readings most of the time. When wave conditions get real choppy I start losing the Smart Troll signal intermittently but generally get enough readings to have a good idea where everything is running.

Here's two more: Healing Waters Salmon Slam at Sodus/Hughes: https://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/65202-2017-healing-waters-salmon-slam-july-29th/ Fair Haven Wounded Warriors https://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/topic/58444-fair-haven-wounded-warrior-fishing-event/?tab=comments#comment-417707

I slide on a couple beads and attach a good quality swivel to the wire using the "wire line knot" so I can easily remove the probe for storage and charging. http://www.fishdoctorcharters.com/videos/video3F.html

I usually run the probes hooked right in the line, always felt that having it tethered off the main line would create more tangles and drag On a wire diver I just hook one end of the probe to the wire and the other end to the dipsy. On a copper or lead core I hook the probe to the end of the main leader then run a run a short leader off end of the probe to the lure. Still trying to figure out the best place for the probe when using slide divers but will probably set it up like a copper line. I've only used the OR clips on the rigger cable Made it thru last year without losing any probes

My transducer is mounted about halfway between the bottom of the transom and the waterline, just inside of my trim tabs. The "interference" I experience is just losing a consistent signal from the port side diver when I'm running the main motor and I/O. My kicker doesn't seem to cause any problems but it is mounted higher than the I/O and further away from the transducer. I run the floor settings pretty low most of the time. I only run the main motor when we have strong currents/wind/waves and then I drop a couple trolling bags and start the main still using the kicker with the TR1 to steer and fine tune my speed.