mudflat

On my 10 year old Scotty 1116 riggers the plastic lens on the counters had turned so dark yellow from the sun that you could barely read the numbers. After reading LZ's post I called Scotty to see if they had replacement lenses for the counters. Unfortunately the lens is not available by itself so you have to replace the whole counter assembly. Scotty is sending me 4 new counters today, no charge. That's fantastic customer service. Thanks Scotty !

MC Rockets are artificial herring strips http://www.mcrocket.com/how-to.html

Fleas will collect on your divers just as bad as on your riggers but wire tends to cut thru them as you reel in Don't use braid on your divers, they will be a real mess I hate fleas

I would contact Hank (L&M) in Port Bay. You can trust him to give you good advice and he's been around long enough to know what he's talking about.

Knowing how much your speed affects the depth with copper and lead I would be interested in seeing how much the weighted steel and 19 wire are affected. It would be nice if Matthew could develop a depth chart for various trolling speeds and lengths

Just remember that if you bed it down with 5500 you won't be taking it back off without doing some fiberglass repair work!

I mounted a Cisco 10 rod rocket launcher on my Penn Yan hardtop using 1" screws and 3M 5500 under the base. Solid as a rock so far and we even use the rod holders as grab handles when we climb up on the gunnels to go up front.

When you're a super fisherman anything is possible, cover the whole water column top to bottom with only one rigger and no fubars

Screwy Louie's in Fairhaven is an authorized service center for both Cannon and Scotty

Yes, as long as you have enough clearance between the skag and the road I raised the Garelick mount all the way up and lowered the kicker all the way down then put on the strap.

If you want to have the auto pilot on just the kicker so you don't need the connector arm then I would go with a Garmin TR-1 Gold. You are correct, with that size boat a T9.9 kicker is going to have to be very active to hold a course in any kind of wind or current. The auto pilot almost needs to anticipate the needed course corrections to keep up and I don't think the T4 will do it. I'm running a TR-1 with a T9.9 kicker on a 25' Penn Yan and feel the TR-1 is what makes it work. With hydraulic steering you can install an auto pilot on your main for about the same money as what the TR-1 will cost and with the connector arm the auto pilot would work with both motors. This is what I would have done except I have rotary cable steering on my Penn Yan and would have had to convert to hydraulic steering. Garmin, Simrad and Raymarine all make good systems so I would pick one based on what other electronics you have on the boat and what dealers are available in your area. Either way will cost you a lot more than the T4 system but it would be well worth the expense when you're on the water.

With my Garelick bracket I have always used a ratchet strap with no problems for years. With the Adventure Marine bracket it's not needed, the bracket is as solid as my transom.

From the picture I'll say Coho Here's a nice ID reference guide: SalmonTrout-LakeOntario2012.pdf

Checked my Navionics chart: The closest point to the Canadian border is 17.7 miles from the Oswego light (bearing 127*) It gets deep quick out of Oswego, you hit 500' around 6 miles and see 600' at 8.1 miles from the light so you should be good

I had a couple of rod holders that the clamp bolt started to show rust and Cisco replaced the bolts under their lifetime warranty. They said it was problem with a batch of bolts they had received from a supplier that year, give them a call I have a total of 15 Cisco rod holders on 2 boats that I had purchased over several years and this only happened on a couple of them so far

I've never been a fan of the cradle type rod holders because they have limited use just for dipsies and the rod butts end up sticking into the boat I do have Cisco tube rod holders and I just pick the dipsy rod and holder straight up to remove the rod, same as you would with any ratchet type holder. My Cisco's are 7 years old and still look brand new