Shakemsam

30amp to 15amp? $5 at walmart near the RV stuff in automotive

I broke a leaf on my 16' 2 years ago. It happens but not often. I worked for a Loadrite distributer long before your trailer was built. I can say for a fact, we never torqued the ubolts to a specific lb. Also, 5700# doesnt sound right for a trailer for a 20' boat unless the trailer was for something else first. If it for a 20'-21', their was a model with a 3700# capacity.

Thanks all for the great info. I will start looking for a speed/temp. Got a line on an older sonar. Garmin 400c for $100. Hope it works out. Shawn

Bump

Harvey..., I can use a couple 12lbers if you have them. Shawn

After trolling occasionally for the past 3 years, I am starting to get serious about it and need some help. I have some equipment (manual riggers, rods, tackle, boards, dipsys, etc) but I am lacking in a newer fish finder (currently Bird 100) and speed/temp (none). Def going used as Im on a budget. based on what I'm seeing, most guys are going with color sonars. Is it that big of an advantage over b/w. I see a lot of decent (Bird, Lowrance, Garmin) b/w new and used at good (for me) prices. My understanding is that the color helps a lot with glare and with my hard top, thats not an issue. As far as Speed and Temp goes, how important is it? I get my speed from my GPS and never really worried about Temp. Should I make temp a priority? Just a bit of background for any who are interested. I started fishing for Salmon as a kid here in Rochester. I fished the very first ESLO with my Dad and Uncle in his 21' Thompson, I think in 1976. Still have the Patch! I also knew Dick Schleyer (SP) personally, and in my opinion he was and still is responsible for the fishing we have today. Back then nobody knew what to do and we went off my fathers experience in Michigan. We spent most of our time anchored in front of Russell's casting cleos and rapalas. The next year we graduated and used riggers made from tricycle front wheels and caught our first salmon. Not long after, we were hitting them pretty hard. Every year my Uncle had a new gadget on the boat. If it made noise or lit up, he had to have it, At the time, my dad had an MFG that we used for Bass up at the Islands, and all the cast down equipment went on there. Eventually the MFG became mine, and I set her up with Penn Electrics and a JayJeff Paper Graph which I still have. It works just as good as the day I bought it...LIKE CRAP! I also still use my Berkley Shadow Rigger Rods which I bought believe it or not at Penny's at our local Mall. Sold the MFG when I got hitched and 3 boats later, I have an 88 24' Crestliner Sabre HT that I bought for the freeboard because my kids were young at the time. I was considering selling the boat because of the gas prices, but I know I will miss the size, and cannot imagine ever being able to afford to replace it. So....I guess I will go fishing! Thanks and I appreciate any thoughts on the equipment. Shawn

Early to Mid 80's always ran good. Perfect for Hemlock or such or a good kicker mtr. Not used in maybe 7 years. $400 BO or willing to trade for Color FF and/or Depth Speed/Temp, Thanks for looking. Shawn

Looking for the above in decent shape. 14 1/2 x 18

x2

Running 4 ft booms off the transom sucks for short armed guys like myself. LOL So, Im looking for a couple ball retrievers. If any one has a couple they're not using, let me know. Thanks.

When I restored my Sabre, I took a pic from a catalog to a graphics store near me and they had no problems making them for a reasonable cost.

He is worth the $$$$ if he can catch, pass, and run the ball. Otherwise...?

Gluvit isnt really the product for that issue. It is meant more for seam and loose rivet leaks. There is a product that you weld aluminum with just using a propane torch that has worked for me. You may find it locally at Cabellas.

I've had the opposite experience. I have found that Champions seem to perform much better in all small engine applications. You may want to close up the gap a bit if you troll a lot. The shorter spark will help it from loading up as quick. Just don't run her w/o for any extended period of time. JMO

Closing up the gap a bit, can help if you troll a lot as well. Stay away from any of the "Split Fire" type plugs unless you want a hole in your piston!

Thanks, much appreciated!

Sorry if I am posting this in the wrong forum. I am looking for a 3 day slip rental for the LOC. I was thinking of the County Park but not sure. Any info is appreciated.

As I posted, I like my Crestliner. Lots of room, tons of freeboard, fast and economical with 260 merc. What I don't like, The hardtop turns this thing into one nasty B..... when trying to dock on a windy day! And, when trolling in rough seas, a real handful at the helm.

I have a 24' Crestliner Sabre and am pleased with it, but if I were looking now....... I would seriously take a look at C-Dory.

LOL Dave, that's what wives are for!

Now that's a heck of an idea. Thanks Dave

I wish I could. It was so badly torn , I just tossed it.

My drop curtain ripped just before storage last season and I won't have one for the derby. Do you guys have any ideas for a temporary, low budget curtain? BTW it is a 24" Crestliner Sabre HT

Shakemsam, If your wheel hubs are even warm to the touch, either your bearings are bad or you have the nut too tight. There is virtually no heat build up on properly lubricated and tightened wheel bearings. Sorry, but I have to disagree. Perhaps not hot to the touch as you say, but enough of a rise in temperature, creating expansion of the grease and then a vacuum when it is rapidly cooled. Next season, take a look at the water near the hub area after you launch, and watch the bubbles.

The problem with bearing buddies is a lot of times people over grease their bearings and blow out the seal on the back side of the hub. Did you ever see grease on the inside of your trailer fenders? If so, you probably over greased the bearing buddies. I do run bearing buddies but I only add grease to them during my initial installation. Brian 100% correct and even worse when that seal blows and grease fills into the brake hub covering the shoes. You won't have to worry about the brakes slipping because they will heat and lock up, burning the bearings to the point they will weld them selves right to the spindle. Additionally, after spending just a bit of time on the road, those bearings and hubs get hot and create a vacuum. I doubt any of you guys allow those hubs to cool off before you back into the launch, sucking water into the hub through the seal and around the grease fitting. I know I don't!! So, if I drive more than 30 min to the launch, I dump a couple buckets of water over the hubs before I launch.