Sk8man

I stand corrected.....it is 32 lb NOT 30 lb on that copper. I always think of it as 30 lb for some reason.....too much wire in my life perhaps?

That is a great point about the CHIRP. I didn't happen to think about that but CHIRP basically fills in ranges of frequencies so it would be covering the 70 khz frequency within that lower range. Another case where actual experience trumps "armchair speculation"

If you are talking about the 57LCSG3B I think you may be able to get 400 of 30 lb with 900 ft of 30 lb Power Pro backing though.

The 83 khz shouldn't interfere as it is 70 khz on the Fishawk so there is enough separation. The 83 khz on my Lowrance Elite 7 marks the downriggers better when they are running deep and it marks fish fine too. I usually run it at 83 when deep and 200 with running within 100 or so. The cone angle is larger on the 83 than the 200 which explains why it marks the downriggers better at depth.

Seems as though Mark may have fished the area a few times He always has great info and is great about sharing it.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/speaking-of-science/wp/2016/07/29/it-turns-out-the-united-states-has-just-one-true-species-of-wolf/

Bleed it out in the net at the side of the boat and place in plastic bag on ice in the cooler if going to keep it. Spend the time reviving them if catch and release. They may take longer than normal (for other fish) to come back to life as they have a build up of lactic acid in their body which increases their mortality rate. I've always wondered if they permanently make it after swimming away too

Me too

You know it strikes me that the higher speed on the newer riggers and along with it the jerking on the weights etc. may be at fault rather than the cable itself and I'm wondering if when probes and especially heavier weights are added to the mix that twisting occurs as well weakening the cable at termination points. Just a thought but I have never had any problems whatsoever with the slower old mag 10A's which have seen heavy use over a very long time span. Could be that the terminal connections on these newer riggers need to be closely inspected and changed more frequently as a result.

Sometimes just a matter of lifting up a little and sliding it out a little to get the gear away from the wheel

That is sure plenty of time Todd I usually just get everything ready to roll put the rods in , unhitch the straps get the lines ready put the motor up etc. and I think that allows enough time especially if it isn't a long trip to the launch. Basically it is to keep them from contracting too quickly from hot to cold. I have the bearing buddies and have had the same bearings and buddies in for 14 years now. I had them checked at the marina this Spring and the mechanic said they were fine still after he disassembled them so my thinking is that whatever I'm doing it must be working and I'm superstitious so I won't change it anyway

whether you use the Beating Buddies or not use the Triple Guard (blue color and very thick) or comparable grease for marine use not the cheapo grease as it handles keeping water out of the bearings and doesn't thin out with use and heat up as much as the junk grease. It may also extend the life of your bearings if you let them cool down a few minutes when you arrive at the launch before launching.

Should be able to just slide the counter out away from the wheel and turn the gear on the counter as desired and slide it back toward the wheel

Good luck and stay safe Alec

Although it might work it isn't the most effective solution. The downrigger rod is made with a relatively fast tip (to accomodate bending under tension on the downrigger) and medium strength in the backbone of it. A true dipsey rod will be stiffer and stronger in both areas to counteract some of the pull of the dipsey. It is one of those situations where the best option is getting the right tool for the job

munks- I wasn't trying to dump on you or anything honest but you may want to do as many folks on here have suggested to others and get together with some friends and go on a charter and ask some of your questions where the ability to actually view the things suggested and try them out may really help. It really is the best way to get this stuff down. Many of the things that the experienced fishermen on here have learned they have done with many many years of trial and error approaches, practice and experimentation. Even most of the Youtube videos aren't nearly as effective a learning tool as being there in person and doing it yourself with skillful guidance and feedback along the way. It can cut years off the learning curve and there are many very capable charter guys out there with VERY helpful information regarding effective methods and practices to catch the fish you desire. Even after 67 years of fishing I learn things every time I go out there . It is all about paying close attention to details and making necessary adjustments and following your intuition. One of the things I found helpful in the past on my first saltwater experience was writing down all my main questions in advance on 3 x 5 cards and then firing away at the charter captain after he said "'go for it"....he actually got a kick out of it

Good points Chowdaire.

One of the things that strikes me recently is how much we Americans especially these days look for the instant, simple answer to issues or problems, or new situations that may either be complicated or relative in nature rather than experimenting ourselves to find the best answer for our own situation. I mean absolutely no disrespect as I'm sure the above question is genuinely offered but it is a good illustration of what I am talking about. There are so many variables to consider combined with unknown information that it is impossible to answer the question accurately and the answer is totally relative to that situation. The bend in the rod depends on the characteristics of the rod itself such as the length, composition, and how soft or stiff the tip is for example and the boat speed, currents present, the type of setup, (e.g. wire vs. mono, flasher vs spinney vs. spoon or stick, size of dipsey and on and on. Basically, with a diver rod you want some stiffness in it but the length is related to personal preference mainly and the exact way you intend to set up your stuff. You may have different sized rods for each side of the boat or if running multiple dipseys different lengths on a given side to assist in line separation. I think the most valuable piece of info on any of my rods is what is happening at the rod tip. If you have experience with your setups or even specific spoons you begin to recognize familiar characteristics in the way the tip moves that can tell you when it is running the way you wish or too slow or too fast or if the spoon is spinning, or the attractor is revolving or swaying too fast etc.