Sk8man
-
Posts
13,806 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Sk8man
-
where is the ice?
Sk8man replied to saljeter's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
I kid you not I had dozens of robins in my yard yesterday....very unusual -
My comments are not intended to detract from your thoughtful video in any way either. Your method is roughly the way I did them for many many years and thousands of fish. I still may do so with small numbers rather than messing with the electric but when you are dealing with large numbers of perch it takes massive amounts of time to do it that way and settling for maybe losing a small bit of flesh in the fillets seems a better tradeoff than spending several hours cleaning them even in a heated cellar
-
Anything is better than nothing for trying to help people but getting a floatation suit is probably the best investment you can make for yourself at least. The most dangerous (and frightening thought) aspect is falling through and then not being able to either find or get to the hole to come back up. The floatation suit prevents you from going under the ice where virtually any throwable device will be useless.
-
I can still remember when I thought my parent's didn't know what they were talking about too
-
I'm with Ray on that
-
You would if you were filleting limits of perch or in the old days when there weren't any limits
-
Why not an electric knife?
-
West Rivers are heavier thickness and weight than flutter spoons and are often used for top lining or downriggers. They usually have the name west River on them though There were a number of Sutton's that were made in both the thicker version and lighter flutter. On some of them the print was sometimes real faint (the thicker versions e.g. the little #6 thick trolling spoon) -
The 45dx's can be used for "all around" rather than being too light and not enough capacity for salmon and can be more versatile for both copper and lead core is what I was getting at. I "specialize" my rig setups and have some reels (e.g. Diawas and Penn's) dedicated to number of cores etc too but also want reels to do whatever I need them to do throughout the seasson not just the Spring (say in a pinch when another is inoperative because of malfunction or tangle....believe it or not it does happen out there
-
The "no number" Sutton's look like "West Rivers". iif they are "heavier than flutter spoons....hard to tell thickness from pic
-
If you are getting the Magda Pros for either leadcore or copper get the 45DX's they will have the capacity as well as a heavier drag.....and they are not bad reels for the price
-
Yes you never pick them up by the eyes (damages nervous system and they may die after release) nor should you keep them vertical for any longer than you have to (screws up their internal organs).
-
what brand 30 lb wire 1000 ft, how far back floacarbin
Sk8man replied to fisherman 57's topic in Tackle and Techniques
Bloodrun or Torpedo , Seagaur 20 or 25 for dipseys /spoons/stickbaits on Lake O but 12 or 15 for smaller bodies of water without kings (or muskies) . Should be at least the rod length you are using but if too long you may be hand lining in the fish. I don't use fluorocarbon for flashers or spinneys off dipseys. or on flies (50lb mono for fly). -
TMD - Fleet Tracker may have a point here...a one or two rig setup is not really necessary especially in shallow water situations and may even cause you to hang up on things there ("belly" of the core) too....as Mark mentioned a SWR (Secret Weapon Rig) using a 2 color rod off a downrigger can be worthwhile to have but a 4 7 and 10 color setup might be more effective to cover the bases for conventional leadcore use. As mentioned I'd use split shot to get down if only needing just a few feet...it is probably a stealthier approach too.
-
Mark the mono will stretch when extended but it is buried under 1,000 ft of 7 strand which to my knowledge wouldn't stretch it but possibly compress it. I guess whatever works for you.....I just figured that the folks at Tuna Tom's knew a little more about the internal aspects of reels than I do so I did what they suggested when I set them up. My reels are holding up fine (not compressing on the spool) and I haven't noticed any difference in the way the line goes through the level wind mechanism. I believe it is more important to get the wire straight with the level wind when you first put it on to prevent it going at an angle on the spool but again I just go with what works for me and there are probably many ways it can be done (e.g. dacron as they do in salt water) and still work out...whatever you have confidence in I guess.
-
I'd say get one of each and test them out. My buddies do well on leadcore but I seem to do better on copper. For Lake O you probably want 45 lb copper but Finger Lakes or similar bodies of water 30 is fine. The 27 lb leadcore is good for both environments. I don't worry about stealth because the fish are usually in back or below most of the lure presentation and the leader length or diameter may be the more critical part of the equation. I prefer 12 lb Seaguar fluoro for the Fingers and 20 lb for Lake O except for Spring conditions when 10 lb is sufficient for most situations.
-
If you tighten down the release tension enough it should prevent the "sawing" action of the braid which damages the pinch pad. I've used it with the TX44's for a few seasons and so far there is no detectable wear. I locate the line as far back in the pad as possible too. -
I've carried one with me for years but have never actually had to use it even with big northerns or lakers on light line. Usually you can just slide them out of the hole carefully if you let them get tired first (assuming the jig is in the side of their mouth and not swallowed). If using live bait I usually use a light wire leader because pike usually swallow the bait. Get their head started out of the hole and turned to the side and stick a finger carefully in the bottom of the gill (avoiding the mouth itself) and quickly "slide" them over the edge of the hole. This is admittedly more difficult if you have built up mounds of snow around your hole though (to keep the wind out).
-
You are very right EsoxAC3. At the very least some sort of life jacket or floatable device should be carried with people out there. It is interesting that people are required to wear life jackets from Nov-April in boats but not out on the ice. I must also say however I'm not a big fan of governmental requirements/intervention in our lives but with some things you can't always depend on people to just use good common sense and this appears to be one of them. People (including me) become complacent about that stuff and they think it is only "the other" guy that it happens to ....until IT IS YOU and that is a rude awakening. The most surprising thing to me was that after many many years on the ice (starting at about 8 yrs old) that I thought there would be some warning (cracking sounds etc.) but it was just instantaneous and like dropping into a "slush hole". Worst of all is the realization that your legs and arms start going numb in seconds not minutes and as soon as you are out of the water hypothermia starts setting in and even walking is difficult. I had on a snowmobile suit and heavy boots at the time and it felt like it weighed a thousand pounds. My left side was still bruised from the edge of the ice a month afterward. If it had been even a foot or two deeper I would have been "history". 2004....not one of my best years -
John makes some very good points. The main reason I use the mono backing is to avoid slippage as well as help decrease direct pressure on the spool from the wire tightening. This was suggested to me by the folks at Tuna Tom's reel repair a few years ago.
-
I've been through myself twice and one of the times it was in 5 1/2 ft of water and I am 6 ft tall and I was all alone on the lake at 6:45 AM (that is the reason for my, comment in number 1). My next action after that time was to buy suits that float for myself and my son (Arctic Armor) and we both got to try them out in 3 ft of water coming back in near dark at Honeoye a couple years ago (late season)
-
http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries TYPO on title should read Lithium
-
I'm hoping more guys come the the fore here as I have talked with some of you out on the ice and others on the phone and I'm confident that you have great stuff to offer..... It would be nice to have a little resource here for folks to refer to
-
Try contacting Chad Lapa by using the "Contact us" at the bottom of the page
-
I guess everyone has their favorite set up but you may wish to consider Bloodrun (Amazon?) 30 lb 7 strand wire in the brown/camo color and the 30 lb Big Game mono for the backing. Don't use braid straight on the spool spindle of the reels. Use good quality (e.g. Seaguar red or blue label) fluorocarbon leader (length up to you I usually use about 8-20 ft). I usually use 20 lb test for running spinneys and flashers. There is also 19 strand wire from Torpedo that is easier on the tips and eyes. If you can't find Bloodrun wire Accustrand and Mailn are good and Mason works too. Make sure you use a twilli tip (e..g. fish307.com) or a rod with a roller tip for the wire ...it will cut into most conventional rod guides and/or tips. Some guys worry about having enough backing but make sure you leave plenty of room to get all your wire on. In my view the backing is primarily to keep the reel spool intact from the pressure of the wire. I have never even come close to being spooled (even with big kings) so I don't worry about the backing issue. If you have your drag set right and know how to "work" your boat against fish it shouldn't ever be an issue with the 30 lb wire in fresh water at least.